CC will be all over the place. When FC is high and it's killing algae, CC is produced. Sunlight burns off the CC. Sunlight also burns off FC. So if FC falls during the day, CC is not forming and what is, goes away. High FC at night should produce a lot of CC but then as FC is consumed, it slows, and when the sun hits, it starts to dissipate.oneyellowbird said:Jason-
Am I missing something here?
Your quote "From what i have read, you have not even started the shock process yet."
I've done 5 shocks with a total of 25 1/2 gallons of (12+%) liquid chlorine in the past 24 hrs. My water is clear. I'm unable to measure an increase or hold FC. Do I just continue to pour gallons (and $) of chlorine in the pool to try to get a reading? Is my test kit at fault? Is there something wrong with this pool water I'm unable to hold chlorine? From my earlier post, my CC level is all over the place ranging from 1.0 to 7.0 in the past 24 hrs. Is that to be expected?
Yes, sir, what Jason said.jblizzle said:Phosphates and Nitrates have nothing to do with your problem ... they are just ways for the pool stores to make money.
You need to keep adding chlorine ... it is the cheapest most effective way to breakdown whatever is inhabiting your pool.
Please decide if you are going to follow the advice and methods we teach or the information you get at the pool stores. Going back and forth is just going to become confusing and waste everyone's time and your money.
Nitrates ain't the problem, as they said. It's CC's.The only way to reduce the nitrates is drain the pool 50 - 60% or do a partial replacement of water over time. I'm on a well system and I don't want to truck in water.