How to Heat an Intex (Anyone Doing It?)

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mrdorkdar said:
Yep! And it’s amazing! I did the calculations and it should only be a couple hundred per month to keep it at 82 or so. I also bought a inkbird smart outlet that is on a timer in the middle of the night. Between 2am - 8am, it turns on, measures the water temperature. If the temp is below a set number, it turns the pump on which automatically turns the heater on based on water flow. I have the pump set on pump only and no chlorine so it will run as long as it needs to. When the desired temp is reached, it shuts the outlet off and the heater turns itself off. I even got the led intex lights hooked up to a wireless wall switch so I really feel like this pool is pretty legit. Totally happy! Oh and I also made a bypass so that when I need to run the chlorinator, it doesn’t go through the heater as the heater company says high chlorine is bad for it.
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So what was your solution for bonding the heater with an intex pool?
 
Eaglei22 said:
So what was your solution for bonding the heater with an intex pool?
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When I bonded my pool, I used a ‘Waterbug’ in the skimmer, as well as connecting six equally spaced legs to the bonding loop buried around the pool (I confirmed continuity throughout the frame, adding a few SS screws to connect less reliable friction connections). That loop is connected to the pump. A heater could be easily added to the bonding loop.

The Intex SWG is double insulated and is not connected to the bonding loop.
 
Thanks for the follow up. I have a Bestway pool, which I believe is the same as the intex frame. My frame has plastic inserts for each pipe connection, and plastic feet for each leg.

Im thinking every piece of metal would need to be bonded in order to ensure everything has equal potential. Is yours like this?

I would like to get a heater too, but this whole bonding stuff on these intex type pools is confusing.
 
I have an older Ultra Frame, it does not have the plastic bushings in the frame. If I was not comfortable with the continuity of a particular frame joint, I drove a Stainless Steel self tapping screw through it. Once everything was connected, I attached one side of my meter to the bonding loop, then probed various spots around the frame (had to scratch a bit of paint in spots), as well as the water itself and the pump housing to verify the bonding connections.
 
Ah okay, that makes sense then to do since you don't hsve the plastic inserts.

My knowledge on bonding goes as far as what I could muster on Google as I'm not an electrician, but I wonder then since I have the plastic inserts what the proper way is to bond this pool, especially with a heater. Or if im just better off waiting until i get a permanent pool.
 
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