How Are These Numbers?

[CleverUsername]

Taylor K2006 just arrived today.

This evening's readings:

FC: 4.2 ppm
CC: .4 ppm
PH: 7.6
TA: 170
CH: 110
CYA: 35

I still have a bit of haziness after killing off a green algea bloom last week, but the bottom is now visible, so the visibility threat is gone (yay)!

A couple of questions:

What's the best way to bring the TA down?

I actually did the FC test twice. Doing the 25ml test, not all the solids of the reagent dissolved with swirling and the scopper is not long enough to physically agitat them. The first test I used two scoops, and there were so many chunks at the bottom which continued to leach pink color, it took 23 drops to get the water to breifly turn clear. I dumped and rinsed and ran the test again with 25ml and only 1 scoop. There were still some, but fewer solids giving off a constrant stream of pink coloring. This time it took 21 drops. I can't imagine this is normal as it obviously can seriously interfer with test results. This is a brand new kit. Should I return it?

Going to test again in the AM to check for FC loss.

Big question is: Is my pool now safe to swim in?

 

[jblizzle]

If your water is not perfectly clear and if you had visible algae, then you need to follow the SLAM Process process.

Having some crystals undissolved is not uncommon and nothing to worry about. I would recommend you use 10 mL of water so that each drop is 0.5 PPM as that is accurate enough and will save you a lot of reagents.

Do not worry about the TA. Just focus on keeping the pH in range and the FC at high enough levels.

As long as you can clearly see the bottom of the pool and the FC is higher than the minimum for your cya level, according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], then the water is safe.

Although I recommend you follow the slam process.

 

[CleverUsername]

Thanks for the reply. Test results from this morning:

FC: 3.2
CC: .2
PH: 7.6
TA: 180 or 190. It was pretty red with 18 drops but I *think* it got an even deeper red with 19. Either way this has crept up from 170 last night. What could be causing the drift and how do I stabilize it?
CH: 110 or 120 (no reason for it to have changed though, as nothing was added since the first test)
CYA: again between 30 and 40. Which number do I go with for the needed FC chart?

Since the CC is so low this morning (and the water is even clearer - I'm attributing this to the diatomaceous earth I've been adding to the sand filter. The water didn't begin to clear until I began doing that) I think I'll refrain from doing a SLAM as it's very hot and the kids are dying to swim. Still a little fuzzy on the best type of chlorine to use (I bought a case of dry shock, but the granuales dont seem too popular here). Is it OK to use laundry bleach? Where can I find instructions for how much to add to get it to the level I want (high normal range)?


Thanks again!

 

[jblizzle]

Reread my recommendation on the change to the fas-dpd chlorine test method.

The TA and CH test results that you have are likely within the accuracy of the test I wouldn't worry about them.

For cya err on the high side when determining your FC goals.

Use PoolMath to do the calculations for you to determine how much to add to reach a given Target.

What kind of granular chlorine do you have? They all have side effects which is why we prefer liquid chlorine or normal household bleach. Just ensure that the bleach does not have any additives like chloromax technology Etc

Remember the key is to keep your FC above the minimum for your CYA level at all times.

 

[ckk81]

Regular bleach is just fine, no splashless or scented though.

Use Pool Math to figure out how much to add.

 

[elwood58]

Do not worry about CH (probably ever) or TA for now. Bleach is the best chlorine solution for non salt pools. Make sure it is the plain stuff, not scented, not easy pour. Use the Pool Math application from this site for determining bleach dosage.

When ready to manage TA downward, use acid to bring the pH down to 7.2 and the airate it back up to 7.6. Repeat as need to see your TA go down. You should see the reduction to 100-110 fairly quickly. Any lower will take a bit longer.