Houston Pool Help Needed - Pool murky after heavy rains

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tomballpkr

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Aug 3, 2013
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My pool turned cloudy/murky yesterday starting with the heavy hurricane rain in Houston. I've been thinking it's not big deal and just due to the heavy rain, since my chemicals measure OK, but after reading on this site I am doubting it.

Here are my readings using my TFP kit:
FC = 23, PH = 7.4, CH = 250, TA = 110, CYA = 30.
I backwashed and refreshed the DE yesterday before rainds started

In advance of the rain I had dumped about 4 gallons of 12.5% bleach in the pool on Friday night. It was probably close to 0 FC before that
I also poured a gallon of Stabilizer because my CYA has been very low and my chlorine burns off every day.
I also poured a gallon of acid to lower PH from 8.2

I have another 16 gallons of 12.5% bleach at my disposal, 1/2 gallon of acid, 1 gallon of stabilizer and some chlorine tablets. All stores are closed for the next few days.

Any advice here?
 
What kind of pool finish do you have? How large is the pool??

What type of filter??

Are those test results from today? Did you test for CCs?

I imagine your filter needs a chance to do its job, with frequent monitoring of your pressures. Make sure there is nothing solid that blew into the pool.

Maddie :flower:
 
Sorry, should have made this clear:

16,500 Gallon with plaster finish (PebbleTec)
60 sqft DE Filter

The test results are from today (Sunday):
FC = 23, CC=1.5, PH = 7.4, CH = 250, TA = 110, CYA = 30

On Friday they were as follows: FC = 1, CC = ?, PH = 8.2, CH = 150, TA = 130, CYA = < 10
- I then added 4 gallons 12.5% bleach, 1 gallon stabilizer, 1 gallon acid
 
Ok, looks like you just need to perform a SLAM. Your CC's being elevated and all the rest. Do you have enough FAS-DPD reagents or do you need to reorder now?

Don't overload your Chlorine level... just follow the chart here -->[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] Your SLAM level for 30ppm CYA is only 12ppm, you can take it a couple points up but anything above that will just burn off and is wasted.

Having a DE filter is going to be your nemisis though. They obviously work great but they get filled to the brim quickly with the schmutz and require frequent re-do's.
Do you have enough DE on hand? Keep an eye on it and bump it now and then if you can to extend the time between cleanings.

Copied from PoolSchool-
"DE filters come in 2 varieties, the first makes use of a push/pull or multiport valve for the cleaning. With this kind of DE filter, the cleaning procedure is exactly the same as cleaning a sand filter. The only difference is that much of the DE is removed along with the dirt, and therefore you have to add more after cleaning the filter (sand is not removed when backwashing, so doesn't need to be replaced). Because the backwashing doesn't remove all of the DE, only add ~80% of what the filter calls for when new or fully clean so that the filter doesn't clog with clean DE. Once in a while it is necessary to open up a DE filter and do a much more through cleaning. For more detailed information on cleaning DE filters, see this post.

The other kind of DE filter utilizes a handle on top of the filter to shift the internal assembly up and down, or "bump" it. This knocks the DE and dirt off of the filter and down to the bottom, reducing the filter pressure and is known as a "bump filter". To clean a bump DE filter, turn off the pump, open the air valve on the top for about 5 seconds and close it again. Now slowly push the handle down and quickly raise it up 5 times. Restart the pump and check to see that the psi dropped more than 2 psi. If it did, you're all set and you don't need to add any new DE to the filter. If it didn't drop enough, repeat the bumping procedure, remove the plug from the bottom of the filter and run the pump another 30 seconds. Replace the plug, open the air valve on top and run the pump until water is coming out of the air valve. Do this whole process twice and you'll be all set to add ~80% of what the filter calls for when new, just like the other type of DE filter. Once in a while it is necessary to open up the filter and do a much more through cleaning."

Maddie :flower:
 
OK, below is what I did yesterday and I am already above the SLAM level so right now I just sit tight and keep it above 12ppm while following rest of SLAM process?
I have enough DE to redo the filter one more time.

Copied from PoolSchool-
"the first makes use of a push/pull or multiport valve for the cleaning. With this kind of DE filter, the cleaning procedure is exactly the same as cleaning a sand filter. The only difference is that much of the DE is removed along with the dirt, and therefore you have to add more after cleaning the filter (sand is not removed when backwashing, so doesn't need to be replaced). Because the backwashing doesn't remove all of the DE, only add ~80% of what the filter calls for when new or fully clean so that the filter doesn't clog with clean DE"
 
No change in status except that i borrowed a neighbor's CYA kit and verified that my CYA is in the 20's just in case my reagent was bad.

However, I did remember and reconfirm this morning that my TA test is turning from blue -> YELLOW instead of red. Does that indicate something? (I'm about to start searching)
 
Still cloudy/murky. Took DE filter apart last night, cleaned black DE off filters, reassembled, redeposited the DE, pressure is back to 22 from 32

FC = 14
PH = 7.8
CH = 150
TA = 80
CYA = 25

About to add more chlorine.
 

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tomballpkr said:
However, I did remember and reconfirm this morning that my TA test is turning from blue -> YELLOW instead of red. Does that indicate something? (I'm about to start searching)
Click to expand...

In the event you see this again, the blue to yellow is the result of testing with really high FC numbers. It's the color change that matters, not necessarily what colors from what I read in the same situation a while back.
 
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