High Salinity

jollyjeff

Member
Feb 16, 2022
6
Hattiesburg, MS
Pool Size
19000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-30
I recently had a new fiberglass pool installed (details in my signature) and have become fairly well acquainted with keeping the water chemistry in check, thanks to TFP and a Taylor k2006 test kit.

When the PB completed installation, they gave me a basic rundown on everything and instructed me to put 14 bags of 40# salt based on the 19,000 gallon capacity. I did as they said and the salinity was at 5200 ppm, based on the diagnostic reading from my iChlor 30 into my Easytouch panel. I lowered the water by 2 - 3" and refilled, lowering it to 4900 ppm. After some evaporation, it is back over 5000 ppm. My PB said that he wouldn't be concerned, since I don't have anything metal in my pool, and there isn't a noticeable saltiness when swimming. He recommended just allowing it to naturally lower over time through usage, rain, etc.

I hate to waste the water in lowering another 6" or more to get the salinity down if it's really not going to harm anything. But, I didn't want to cause any premature wear on my SWG, pump, etc. Should I go ahead and lower the salinity to at least below 4000? Or, allow it to naturally drift down over time as the PB suggested? After some research, I realize that the PB should have had me check the original salinity of the water prior to adding all 14 bags of salt. Live and learn..
 
Thanks! I just ordered the k1766 kit and will calibrate the SWG to the results. I'll then do what is needed to get the salinity to within the manufacturer range.

One other question regarding CH. I originally had a CH of 70 ppm and had to add 20 lbs of calcium chloride to get it to 150 ppm. With a fiberglass SWG setup, is that a good place to leave it? I've read of issues with blistering of the gelcoat and such if it's too high.
 
One other question regarding CH. I originally had a CH of 70 ppm and had to add 20 lbs of calcium chloride to get it to 150 ppm. With a fiberglass SWG setup, is that a good place to leave it? I've read of issues with blistering of the gelcoat and such if it's too high.
If the pool manufacturer has recommendations for CH follow them. Otherwise, follow TFP recommendations: TFP recommends a minimum CH level of 250 to to help prevent cobalt staining:


CH levels typically rise through the cycle of evaporation and top offs. How fast depends on the CH level of fill water. You can test the CH of fill water to give you an idea of how fast it will rise.
 
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