High CYA

Jun 23, 2017
13
Canonsburg, PA
i am new. thanx for any help.

i ran out of reagent for cya and my reading went from 70 on 6/16/2017 to 160 ish today. my test goes up to 100. first test was over 100 so diluted reagent to half then doubled the 80 reading i had. guessing I'm around 160?

my history upon opening the pool was struggling to keep free chlorine in pool, ph was running low at 6.9 land kept dropping after raising back to 7.4 and the alk was high 130. ph would drop and alk would climb.

i new that the ph and alk separation was an issue and asked for help but kept getting bad info from pool store. was told it would all level out in time. any ideas why? dies tricolor lower ph that much yet still raise alk?

the more tricolor i put in and more ph plus (carbonate not bi-carbonate) the higher the alk got.i was aware of this and kept asking pool store for help but they just kept recommending more up for ph then down for alk resulting in my yo yo effect.

i went through a cycle of lowering alk from 240 to 190 with the muriatic acid lowering then raised it right back up along with the sodium carbonate i used to raise the ph back up. i was told the ph would raise without raising the alk very much. i asked ( pool store) this prior to using it. i had lower alk at 120 but only to raise it back up to 190

i am pretty sure its from my tricolor because i was going through chlorine pretty badly.

my water is finally balanced fairly well except for alkalinity at 190 and obviously cya.

today= free chl. 3, total 3, ph 7.4, alk 190, CH 190, cya guessing around 160?

want to change to bleach or cal hypo to chlorinate and maybe use borax to raise ph if ever necessary again.

any ideas short of draining my entire crystal clear pool all the way down?

if i use borax should i do a little as needed or get the pool to 30-50 ppm to start?

if so will that effect any decision making in how to lower alk or cya?

Please help the more i read the more confused i get.
 
That CYA level is really unmanageable because you have to keep an insane amount of FC in it to keep the pool sanitized. Trichlor and dichlor are both very acidic. That's why you're seeing your pH constantly going down. If I were you, I would drain pool to get CYA down to around 50 PPM. A half drain and refill would get you down to 80, so you need to drain around 70% and refill to get to 50 PPM. Once you have refilled, hopefully your pH will have leveled out a little because of your refill water. It's nice to run pH, TA, and CH tests on the fill water so you know what your putting back into your pool.

Once you're back in business, stay away from any powdered chlorine or pucks. Every time you add those, you are increasing your CYA, which is probably how you got in this situation to begin with. Stick with liquid chlorine or bleach. They are unstabilized so they add no CYA like the others do. If you need to adjust TA, wait until pH climbs to around 7.8 and lower both of them down with muriatic acid to around 7.0 - 7.2. Then aerate the pool to raise the pH back up. Rinse and repeat until you get the TA down to where you want it. Aeration is the only way to raise pH without affecting TA. I'm sure you found that out after the pool store had you bouncing up and down. I built my own aerator out of pvc, but if you have eyeballs in your pool, you can turn them up so they break the surface of the water and create bubbles.

Here's a picture of my DIY aerator:

 
Thanx, i kinds thought that was the only thing i can do.

even if i change to a SWG the cya is still going to demand a lot of chlorine correct. it may not cost so much but the chlorine would still be very high in the pool messing with skin and hair i assume?
 
Thanx, i kinds thought that was the only thing i can do.

even if i change to a SWG the cya is still going to demand a lot of chlorine correct. it may not cost so much but the chlorine would still be very high in the pool messing with skin and hair i assume?
Actually, no. The proper FC/CYA ratio is less aggressive than water with no CYA and 2 FC.... tap water.
 
I'm going to drain the pool tonite and refill it wednesday morning. i am going to drain it down ta almost nothing and start from scratch.

i see its recommended to have some cya in the pool. should i obtain that by using the trichlor again when i chlorinate? i have a new unopened 40 lb bucket of pucks that i was considering returning.

if so how much cya should i let it climb to?

i am considering SWG but just dropped another 600 on water.
 
I'm going to drain the pool tonite and refill it wednesday morning. i am going to drain it down ta almost nothing and start from scratch.

i see its recommended to have some cya in the pool. should i obtain that by using the trichlor again when i chlorinate? i have a new unopened 40 lb bucket of pucks that i was considering returning.

if so how much cya should i let it climb to?

i am considering SWG but just dropped another 600 on water.
It will take a while for that many pucks to dissolve. I don't think that alone will work for you. If it were my pool, I'd lose about 75% of it. That should leave you somewhere in the 30-50 range. You'll know by testing after it's had a day to mix with the new water. Then if you need a little more CYA, use the pucks, but supplement with bleach as needed to keep the FC in range.
 
thanx i just refilled my entire pool unfortunately i exchanged 18,000 gallons. i only had a little water left in the bottom so I'm guessing my pool is a 18k pool now.

i am considering swg but i read that some stainless filters and some older heaters aren't compatible with salt. i have both any thoughts?
 
my new water which is basically tap water now is reading

0 free cl, 2 total cl, 7.6 ph, 70 alk, 100 CH and 0 CYA.

i was going to use hypo cal pucks since the chlorine and ch are low but hate the idea of all that inert stuff going into the water.

from what I'm reading i should use just straight chlorine bleach to get my free up and only use the inline chlorinator to keep it there?

i have a box of 1 lb. dichlor shock that is opened and would like to use that to raise free cl and cya also.should i just calculate on pool math how much the dichlor will raise cya and subtract that from how much stabilizer i add.

i am afraid to use the tricolor in my chlorinator anymore since thats what got me into trouble in the first place so i think i am going to return the bucket of pucks i have recently purchased.

does any of this sound right and any advice on what order to put chemicals in would help.

i always wonder if shocking messes up the other things i add.

as you can see i am gushy now that i just drained my entire pool.
 
A lot of what your saying WILL work. But I don't think you'll find a lot of people suggesting it. Since you're start fresh just add what you need and nothing else and keep it simple.

Looking at your numbers, I would suggest:
A. DON'T add Dichlor or Triclor, it's acidic and going to screw with everything else. your alk was probably climbing because you had to use so much Soda Ash to correct for low pH
B. Add enough Bleach or any type of liquid chlorine, i.e. Sodium Hypochlorite. Use the pool math to tell you how much to get to FC of 6ppm, check daily and add enough to keep it at 6ish +-1ppm
C. Get some Stabilizer but only increase it to 30-50ppm, again use pool math. Keep this low and don't use any products that also contain CYA
D. Add Calcium Chloride to increase Calcium hardness to ~250ppm is fine
E. Alkalinity looks fine. Don't do anything.
F. Finally all this will change pH a little. So adjust pH if necessary with Muriactic Acid to lower and Soda Ash (or Borax) to raise.
 
i always wonder if shocking messes up the other things i add.
Shocking with Dichlor and/or Trichlor will mess with pH, Alkalinity, and raise CYA.

i have a box of 1 lb. dichlor shock that is opened and would like to use that to raise free cl and cya also.should i just calculate on pool math how much the dichlor will raise cya and subtract that from how much stabilizer i add.
Yes you can, but I wouldn't recommend it. Dichlor is a little worse than Trichlor as it adds even more CYA per unit weight than Trichlor and as you say you're now scared of Trichlor. In time that will pass as you'll find using it a little bit here and there is fine because you understand all the implications of using it. That being said 1lb isn't that much but I personally like to just keep this simple and add 1 chemical for 1 purpose.
 

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from what I'm reading i should use just straight chlorine bleach to get my free up and only use the inline chlorinator to keep it there?
What kind of inline chlorinator do you have? In general the recommendations you'll get here are to use liquid chlorine for all chlorinating purposes.


i am afraid to use the tricolor in my chlorinator anymore since thats what got me into trouble in the first place so i think i am going to return the bucket of pucks i have recently purchased.
It's sounds like you have a Trichlor inline chlorinator. These are ONLY designed for trichlor pucks. If you don't want to use trichlor anymore you'll have to just add bleach or get a inline liquid chlorine feeder like I did, or liquidator, or go salt water chlorine generator (SWCG). For you, the simplest answer to run with right now is just buy a bunch of bleach/liquid chlorine and start dumping it in manually daily as needed per the pool math calculator.


By liquid chorine I meaning, household regular bleach which is roughly 6% sodium hypochlorite or really any form of sodium hypochlorite. At the pool store they usually label it 'Liquid Shock' or 'Super Shock' or something like that which is more concentrated than household bleach at ~10-12% sodium hypochlorite. Just look at the containers they are almost always labels Active Ingredients: Sodium Hypochlorite with a percentage and Inert Ingredients: 'Other Ingredients', i.e. water and a little lye, being the balance.
 
my new water which is basically tap water now is reading

0 free cl, 2 total cl, 7.6 ph, 70 alk, 100 CH and 0 CYA.

i was going to use hypo cal pucks since the chlorine and ch are low but hate the idea of all that inert stuff going into the water.
You can, for a while. But low CH won't bother your vinyl pool so you can use bleach.
from what I'm reading i should use just straight chlorine bleach to get my free up and only use the inline chlorinator to keep it there?
Yes and no. The inline chlorinator is what got you into the mess.
i have a box of 1 lb. dichlor shock that is opened and would like to use that to raise free cl and cya also.should i just calculate on pool math how much the dichlor will raise cya and subtract that from how much stabilizer i add.
Might as well. Otherwise it's just hazmat you have to dispose of.
i am afraid to use the tricolor in my chlorinator anymore since thats what got me into trouble in the first place so i think i am going to return the bucket of pucks i have recently purchased.

does any of this sound right and any advice on what order to put chemicals in would help.

i always wonder if shocking messes up the other things i add.

as you can see i am gushy now that i just drained my entire pool.
Your pH is okay and the dichlor will lower it a bit.

If you had algae, then there may still be some residual, so take it up to shock level FC.
 
what is shock level free chlorine?

i am confused about the pool math or pool calculators.

they are telling me i only need a 1lb. 16 oz bag of dichlor to get from 0 free to 4 ppm. i did that and of course it isn't enough.

how would 1 bag be enough chlorine when i have zero?

my test read barely any pink at all after 6 hours to settle.

- - - Updated - - -

i have a pentair rainbow mod 320.

holds 3" pucks which i crush to dissolve better.

it says no cal hypo do you know why?
 
That inline chlorinator really only uses Trichlor, nothing else. It's advertised as also for Bromine but the a note on the website shows it's not NSF rated for Bromine, whatever that means. If you're scared of Trichlor, you just have to stop using that chlorinator.

Get some liquid chlorine such as regular household bleach right away. 2 gallons will get you up to around 6-7ppm. After a few hours it might be much lower because of sun and possible algae in the water.

Again,
A. DON'T add Dichlor or Triclor, it's acidic and going to screw with everything else. your alk was probably climbing because you had to use so much Soda Ash to correct for low pH
B. Add enough Bleach or any type of liquid chlorine, i.e. Sodium Hypochlorite. Use the pool math to tell you how much to get to FC of 6ppm, check daily and add enough to keep it at 6ish +-1ppm
C. Get some Stabilizer but only increase it to 30-50ppm, again use pool math. Keep this low and don't use any products that also contain CYA
D. Add Calcium Chloride to increase Calcium hardness to ~250ppm is fine, this is NOT critical
E. Alkalinity looks fine. Don't do anything.
F. Finally all this will change pH a little. So adjust pH if necessary with Muriactic Acid to lower and Soda Ash (or Borax) to raise.
 
thanx again, I would never mix chemicals, its just printed on the chlorinator itself so I just wondered why no cal hypo if I started with it? they make 3" pucks too right or are they not slow dissolving for chlorinators?

I intend on taking your advice and using bleach as much as possible but want to keep something in the chlorinator in case I runout. bleach isn't the most convenient chlor to purchase.

I think my chlorine may have burnt off since I had no cya yet and it was very sunny all day.

got cya and calcium in now and added a little more chlorine last night. will check when I get home.

I promise I will read everything I just wanted to get something in my water before it turned in this heat.

im not lazy im just in a jamb and trying to get this thing ready for the holiday thanx again.:D

- - - Updated - - -

thanx I plan on using primarily bleach just never have before and gotta grab some.
 
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