I assume, since its never mentioned, that the various "CYA removers" which I see sold is, at best, tricky, and at worst bunk?
#1 -
Bio-Active Cyanuric Acid Reducer
(it is apparently a strain(s) of bacteria that feed on CYA, with Ammonia as a waste product, then another strain that feeds on the ammonia converting it to Nitrate, then Nitrite - I.e. your pool must become a giant freshwater fishtank and go through the "freshwater fish tank cycle" for this to work). For this to work have to have Cl to get to ZERO, have no algecide, proper pH and temp, and wait another few days to be safe.
Seems like this one would work, but it can go sideways real easy and wind you up with a pool full of Ammonia or worse. Reports of both working and catastrophe happening.
#2: Further research finds this other method of removing CYA using Aluminum Sulfate:
A promising new method of CYA removal saves you from draining the pool.
www.aquamagazine.com
This method seems to have support of some industry professionals. Water chem has to be spot on, and have to be able to vac to waste carefully. Sounds messy but doable.
(instructions from above, to save a click)
Aluminum Sulfate-CYA Removal Method:
[Edit: looks like this is mostly debunked
Single ]
1. Adjust pH to 7.0 (this is critical).
2. Adjust Total Alkalinity to 80-120 ppm, Calcium Hardness to 200-400 ppm, Water Temperature to 70-90 degrees Fahrenheit (this is critical).
3. Ensure the pool is free of heavy debris that could stir the ‘floc’ upon vacuum to waste.
4. Test Cyanuric Acid Level.
5. Filter Preparation —
Sand and DE Filters: With the pump off, manipulate the multiport valve to ‘recirculate’ position.
Cartridge Filters: With the pump off, remove the filter element and then reassemble without it.
6. Broadcast Aluminum Sulfate at a rate of 8.33 lbs per 10,000 gallons of water.
7. Set the time clock to run the pump for two hours and then shut off.
Remove the ‘ON’ tripper from the time clock or set automation to service, and set an egg timer to avoid unintentional circulation.
8. Allow the pump to remain off for a minimum of 12 hours. Do NOT allow the pump to run again until the entire process is complete, and elements are replaced with valves in the correct run positions.
9. With a PORTABLE VACUUM SYSTEM, vacuum the floc to waste at a pace slow enough not to stir or ‘break’ the floc.
10. Test residual aluminum level (should be < 0.2 ppm).
11. Test Cyanuric Acid level.
Overall, it is a fairly simple process to do. The pH, alkalinity and water temp are critical. Get those three parameters set, calculate your pool volume, measure your doses and follow these instructions above for some clear water, a happy client and a smile on your face. If you have yet to do a treatment like this, it is a cool process. The water clouds up, and when you come back the next day, it’s all sitting on the bottom of the pool just waiting to be vacuumed out. Grab your tools and equipment, clean it up, refill/ rebalance the water, and you’re done.
#3 Mystery bag (adsorption):
Several of these products exist, all look to be the same. maybe they work, I can't find much evidence, reviews are 2:1 against.
Green Story Global Pool Water Cyanuric Acid CYA Conditioner Remover 1.5 lb. GSG-CYA-1.5
bestpoolshop.com
Not looking to start a flame war - but looking for proper discussion around these methods. #2 sounds actually promising and would at the very least probably not make the situation worse, Edit - see link above for mostly debunked, file under more research needed but probably altering the CYA test results. #1 sounds plausable but tricky, and #3 sounds like snake oil (or there is one real mfg and a lot of fake copycats).
