Novicetrish

Member
Apr 27, 2021
12
PA
Hi all
So we took on a renovation of a VERY OLD concrete pool. New coping, tile filter, rebar staples, light plaster mastic and 3 coats of supreme paints platinum pool paint. As I was cleaning out and unplugging the shallow ends main drain (another in the deep end) to get ready to finally fill er up I saw this cracking in the pot...
NOW WHAT DO I DO???
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance20210805_200054.jpg
 
Well that pot looks like your skimmer.

Show us pics of your pool and the area around the skimmer so we can get an idea of the complexity of replacing it.
 
Well that is not your skimmer. That complicates matters.

How many skimmers do you have?

Pools do not need a main drain. You can plug that hole with hydraulic cement and permanently close it.

You cannot leave it as is since it looks like it will leak through the cracks at the bottom.

To replace it you will need to chip out the gunite around it, replace it, then cement around it.
 
Well that is not your skimmer. That complicates matters.

How many skimmers do you have?

Pools do not need a main drain. You can plug that hole with hydraulic cement and permanently close it.

You cannot leave it as is since it looks like it will leak through the cracks at the bottom.

To replace it you will need to chip out the gunite around it, replace it, then cement around it.
I have 2 skimmers and 2 main drains..weird thing is. I had to sick water out of there to pull the plugs from the pressure test so it doesnt appear water is leaking from it.
 

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To fix it correctly, you will likely have to cut it out and replace.

@ajw22 is likely correct also that you don't need main drains. I have a 31K TFP without any main drains! Just two skimmers. Since it is in the shallow end, all the better.

So, you have fix it right (cut, replace), or plug.

There may be other ideas forthcoming from others.
 
I have 2 skimmers and 2 main drains..weird thing is. I had to sick water out of there to pull the plugs from the pressure test so it doesnt appear water is leaking from it.
I'm not sure I understand. Where were the plugs that were in place for the pressure test?

In either case, water, in a static situation (standing water), acts VERY differently than dynamic water (under suction). It can pull those piece of the "pot" out and you CAN lose water through those cracks in a dynamic situation.
 
Where is the 2nd main drain?

Is it two independent drains or one drain with two inlets?
 
I cant say for sure but I am thinking 2 because there are hydrostatic plugs in the bottom of both

That is just the way the units come with a bottom plug hole. I suspect the two are joined in a Y to a single pipe. You may need to put a camera down the pipe to confirm and know what you are dealing with.
 
That is just the way the units come with a bottom plug hole. I suspect the two are joined in a Y to a single pipe. You may need to put a camera down the pipe to confirm and know what you are dealing with.
Thanks. I think I am going to take your suggestion on the hydrolic cement. I feel like I can plug the bottom to cover the cracks and still keep the suction side functional
 
Just putting hydraulic cement into the bottom to cover the cracks likely will result in failure. Some reading on the topic: Does concrete stick to PVC?

I actually have a fair amount of experience in another industry with epoxy.

If you really want to repair this, then the only solution I know that will stick to PVC and have enough expansion coefficient to withstand temperature dynamics is this --> G-Flex West Systems

You will have to sand the area really well, or heat treat the PVC with a flame to remove all the "shine" before you apply. Also, I would clean it well enough that you would let your newborn eat off of it. Remove and and all dirt, paint, anything. Final cleaning with acetone.

I would suggest that you reach out to West Systems and talk to them. They are great people and have a ton of experience. They may suggest that you add a filler or additive for your specific problem.
 
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Thanks. I think I am going to take your suggestion on the hydrolic cement. I feel like I can plug the bottom to cover the cracks and still keep the suction side functional
He was saying to use hydraulic cement to plug the hole and just go with one floor drain. He wasn't suggesting using hydraulic cement to repair it...
 
Thanks. I think I am going to take your suggestion on the hydrolic cement. I feel like I can plug the bottom to cover the cracks and still keep the suction side functional

Nope. You can’t do that. I was suggesting you fill the hole and shutdown the main drain. If you shut one you have to shut both or it becomes an entrapment safety hazard.
 
He was saying to use hydraulic cement to plug the hole and just go with one floor drain. He wasn't suggesting using hydraulic cement to repair it...

Going with one floor drain creates an entrapment safety hazard. I was not suggesting that. The entire main drain needs to be shutdown and capped.
 
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