Help with cloudy water and scratchy sides of vinyl pool

Laurie F

Member
Jun 25, 2022
9
Hebron, Nebraska
We purchased an above ground 26,000 gallon vinyl pool three years ago and it was installed by the company we purchased it from. It was "beautiful" and clear and the bluest blue you could imagine the first year. We live in Nebraska where the wind blows like crazy and we only have a few days of super cold weather in the winter with warming temps in the spring getting earlier and earlier. We had the company come and close the pool for us the first year in October. Where we live the wind rips everything up, so we were not able to keep a tarp on our pool no matter what we tried. Our second year, we had the company come and open it, it remained somewhat cloudy that second year. We had problems with algae and green water as the temperature rose quickly in the spring. We were fighting algae constantly all summer. We closed the pool ourselves last fall. Again, it was not covered due to the high winds which rip off any cover we try. (We do not have many trees around it.) This spring it warmed up quickly. We had such gross water, we started to drain the pool, which was taking days, but the wind was horrible and we panicked thinking our pool would blow over. We had only about two feet of water to go to finish the job of removing it, but we started to fill it back up again. We watched video after video of how people cleaned, shocked and Slammed pools that had not been used for many years. We felt we could do this. We purchased another filter and have been changing it out regularly every two days and testing every two days. We run our large vacuum on its own, and I have purchased a rechargeable hand held vacuum for when I am in the pool. To make a long story even longer, we FINALLY got our water cleaned (over a month and a half), but we have been unable to get the last two feet of water from being cloudy. We also have a very "scratchy" almost sandpaper like feel two feet down from the top water line on the vinyl liner on the sides. We have tried scrubbing it off to no avail with brush after brush. We tried some pumice stones, but they scratched our liner. We need help! The hardness tests have been consistently high, but all other areas keep fluctuating from low to high. We regularly add Scale, metal and hardness cleaner weekly. Our filter every two days has a grayish, slimy almost lotiony feel to the gross stuff we clean out of it. We will take any help we can get at this point!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: We can certainly help, but it all starts with one thing - proper testing. No test strips, no local stores, but yor own TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. Once you have one of those kits, post a full set of test results and we can definitely coach you through the clearing process. As for the scratchy sides, time (and testing) will tell. We'll know more once we see the testing.

In the meantime, be sure to bookmark our Pool Care Basics page as it has just about everything under the sun you need to know. If you have any questions, just ask. We're here to help.
 
Here are my results from my K-2006 FAS-DPD chlorine tester:
Total hardness: 340 ppm
Total chlorine: 1.5 ppm
Full Chlorine: 12 ppm
PH: 7.2
Total Alkalinity: 150 ppm
CYA: above the marks...so above 100...very cloudy

Sample taken today after about 2 inches of rain last night, water temperature 80 degrees.
 
Two questions about your test results:

1: your chlorine numbers are somewhat confusing. When doing the FAS-DPD test the first result you get is your Free Chlorine number, then after adding the R-0003 it turns pink again and you run the test again for your Combined Chlorine result. Is this how you are doing the test? If so, which number is for which test?

2: For your CYA test you say "above the marks", do you mean you filled the entire test tube and could still see the dot? Or that you lost sight of the dot with only a small amount of liquid?
 
Sorry for the confusion....I just did the test again, here is what I have:
1. Free Chlorine 8 ppm (needed 16 drops in 10 mL of water x .5)
2. Combined Chlorine 2 drops x .5 for 1 ppm


CYA done earlier was only a small amount of liquid in the tube (less than 1.8 mark) that did not even reach any mark or number on the tube before the black dot disappeared.

Hope this helps!
 
Don't have much experience with the scale on your pool walls, but sounds like you need to get your FC/CYA Levels under control first to get your pool nice and clear and sanitary.

You stated you drained most of the water and refilled (now 2 months ago?) What have you been adding to the pool to chlorinate and clean up the water? Your CYA sounds like it is very high, meaning your 8ppm FC is not enough, and you should likely drain more water out of the pool. You could try the 'diluted' CYA test to get an estimate of where your CYA is at.
 
In response to both answers:
- Yes, I use chlorine tabs in a floaty on the surface of the pool. It holds three pucks and it seems to be using them up faster this year. I also have liquid chlorine on hand. I will begin using that again.

- I have slammed the pool at the beginning with liquid chlorine. Weekly we shock with 2.5 one pound bags, or shock if we have quite a few in the pool. We also used an algaecide earlier when we started slamming, and continue to use both a pool clarifier and scale, metal and stain liquid.

- Yes, I can partially drain the pool again and refill. How much would you suggest I drain out, Pieter S? Should I test part way up when refilling?

Thanks for everyone's help!
 
You're dumping a lot of likely unnecessary chemicals in your pool. Once at the right CYA level, liquid chlorine is really all you should be using, with maybe the occasional need to adjust pH. Read the Pool Care Basics to get started! Also, filling out your signature with your equipment, pool, test kit etc is helpful!

That said - it's hard to tell you how much water to drain without knowing how much CYA you have. You could try a diluted pool water sample (half pool water/half tap water) and use that in the CYA test, you'd just double your result then to get a guess at your CYA. Just know that it's just a best guess, but it'll be helpful to know approximately where you're at. From there, it's simple math to figure out how to reduce your CYA. Draining half your pool and refilling will cut your CYA in half.
 
Hi, PeterS,
1. I don't know how to add my signature or "edit" and add my information. I tried, but can't find that section.

Here is what I have: vinyl with aluminum frame, three year old above ground pool, 26,000 gallons, filter system (not salt water) southern Nebraska, so muggy, hot and high summer temperatures especially in July (they have been around 100 degrees), with sporadic rain (we just had almost 2 inches), but that slows down once we hit late July and August.

2. I started the removal of water process (we siphon with hoses), so it will take a couple of days. I also did the diluted CYA test. My result was 100 so x2 it was at 200. Quite high. I went on the pool calculator which suggested removing 75 percent of the pool water, I will try 50 percent as long as the wind doesn't kick up again. Without running the pump and high temperatures, algae will form quickly.

3. I did re-read the pool care basics, my question is: Which area should I try to correct first (they CYA as I am doing?), then in what order do I move on? Meaning, should my CYA be my first step to correct? Should it be between 30 - 60 ppm?

I will start adding water back after half has been removed, then recheck the CYA and send in the results.

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!
 

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Yes, correct your CYA first. If not using a SWCG, yes, 30-60 is a good target. If you start using pucks again, that'll increase your CYA quite quickly, so you'll have to use liquid chlorine to sanitize, a bit of a daily chore. You can use pucks when you go out of town for a bit, just know they contain CYA. If this pool is something you love and will have for a while, seriously consider adding a SWCG. I just have a small 5000 gallon above-ground, but love having the SWCG to add the chlorine for me.

Understand it might take a bit to drain using siphon hoses, but use as many as you can. And while draining/refilling, keep checking your chlorine and manually add chlorine to keep algae at bay. Just use your brush or skimmer or anything else to agitate the water for a bit, or just hop in and do a few laps. Problem is with your very high CYA, you need to add a LOT of chlorine for it to be effective, so concentrate on getting that CYA down as soon as you can.
 
Ok, TFP,
I have drained between 70 and 75% of the water from my 26,000 gal pool and refilled it. The pump is now on and running. Water temperature is 86 degrees, outdoor temperature is 90 degrees. Here are my test results:

CYA - 60 ppm
FC - 11 ppm
CC -1 ppm
PH - between 7.4 and 7.6 so 7.5
TA - 200 ppm
CH - 325 ppm

I have no more chlorine tabs floating in the water, and I added four gallon jugs of chlorine to the pool while refilling to keep the algae at bay. I used my handheld Intex vac while draining and still am vacuuming up particles that look like sand, gray, slimy sludge and white particles. My CYA has dropped tremendously and PH looks good, but there are some others out of whack.

What are my next steps?
 
You need to SLAM Process to clear the algae. Read over it a couple of times. Try to get as much of the organics that are still in the pool out. This will help the SLAM.

Its done when the pool is clear, CC below 1, and you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Try to source refillable jugs. Pool stores my have them. Higher percentage of chlorine, usually 12.5%.

SLAMs go faster when you can test and raise the CL level back to SLAM for your CYA of 60 as often as every couple of hours in the beginning.
 
Nice job getting that CYA down! How does the water look?

Be careful of your pH readings - they're not generally valid over an FC of 10, and you're running around 11.

Agree with the above, with your history of very high CYA and all the extra potions added to the pool, follow the SLAM Process to get it sparkling clear. Keep using that hand-held vac to get anything you can out of the pool. I don't believe you have an SWCG, so vacuuming to waste and getting rid of a bit more CYA wouldn't be a bad thing - it's a bit tough to maintain the required FC level with CYA of 60.
 
Good afternoon!
I did the SLAM process beginning on Friday. By Sunday morning the pool was sparkling clear, with just patches of sluggish material I kept vacuuming out. IT'S BEAUTIFUL!

I then did the OCLT test starting on Sunday pm and tested this am...here are my results. It passed!

Beginning on Friday:
CYA - 60
FC - 4.2
CC - 1.2
PH-7.3
TA - 200
CH - 350

Sunday 8 pm
CYA - still 60
FC - 10.5
CC - .5
PH - 7.6
TA - 200
CH - 325

Today 6:15 am 6-18-22
CYA - did not test
FC- 10
CC - .5
PH- did not test
TA - did not test
CH - did not test

We had 1.8 inches of rain on Saturday night, so I was hoping the CYA would go down on its own, but as you can see it did not. I assume the only way to lower it is to take some more water out, which I will soon if needed.

The pool is SPARKLING clean and clear, I can see to the bottom and around the entire pool. Other than a few patches here and there of some tannish gunk on the bottom, which I will vacuum out again today, it looks great. I still have about two feet of scratchy, hard stuff on the bottom half of the walls all around the pool, but the pool is so clear that it doesn't bother me about the sides at this time. My two Intex vacuums are barely getting a break vacuuming out gunk, but they are doing a fantastic job of vacuuming up the stuff. THANK YOU FOR GETTING US TO THIS POINT!

Please advise as to what to do next.
1. Do I need to lower my CYA?
2. How do I lower my hardness or alkalinity if needed?
3. What should I be doing to maintain this beautiful water weekly?

THANKS AGAIN FOR EVERYONE'S HELP!
 
Darn it! I'll have to make a note of that for future reference. I am sure if I would have drained some of it, we would not have gotten the rain. That's how it seems to work around our house. We very rarely get this much rain in July, it is an unusual year.
 

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