HELP!!! RE-PLUMBING A DISCONNECTED SOLAR HEAT SYSTEM

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Did you leave the pump running overnight?

It sounds like what happened is that the pump was dead headed - it couldn't send the water anywhere because with the solar valve the way you have it I believe there is another valve near the pipe running up the wall to the solar that is shut off. So the pump will get hot which will heat the water, etc. Edit: the shut off is on the return side of the solar. Is there one on the supply line? All I see is a flow meter next to the filter right before it goes up the side of the building. You may just have pressure tested the solar panels...did any water come off the roof?

What's weird is the dirty water coming out of that port. Are you sure the waterfall was not also dribbling when you saw debris coming out of the port? Maybe the valve was not completely closed ... or it leaked due to the hot water?
 
The waterfall was definitely not working when the water was coming out of the port. And the water was hot coming into the pump. I didn't see any leaks coming from the solar. Im going back to check the suction on the skimmer with the changing of the brown valves position and to measure the pipe to repair the leak. Could the actuated valve malfunctioning create the original problem with the solar, leading the guy who replumbed it to think that the solar itself was broken, rather than the automatic valve?
 
I am assuming that you did not turn the actuated valve?

So maybe the controller is sort of functioning and turned the valve for you ... great thanks :hammer: and then the water had no where to go and got hot ... which must have made the PVC start to leak.

Try to search for the manual online for the actuator (Jandy JVA1240). There probably is a switch on it somewhere. If you put it in the middle (off) then the controller will not be able to turn it again. You may have to disengage the actuator so that you can turn the handle manually (again find the manual online and learn the procedure ... ok HERE is a link look at page 8 for the prcedure to disengage the actuator)

Once you turn it back off of the solar you can start running again (unless the suction line at the pump need to be fixed).

I would say it would be interesting to open the shut off valve on the solar and see what happens, but you are still getting freezing weather and if water got trapped in the panels it could cause more problems, so I would suggest not messing with the solar until the weather warms up some.

Not sure about that hole near the waterfall. Might take some more investigating.

Did you confirm whether anything appears to be plumbed to the second hole in the skimmer?
 
A neighbor that used to be a pool tech, showed me the reset/manual button on the under side of the Jandy Actuator valve which caused it to change positions, I can't fire anything up yet, the hardware store is closed for the plumbing parts to re[pair the new leak until morning. I'm curious about the valve and what if anything it does anymore.... and again I'm confused....any thoughts?
 
So the solar valve is on the return (water going back to the pool) side of the pump. You don't have any valves on the suction side. The incoming water wasn't hot. There was no water flow and the pump was heating up the water due to the resistance of the water not flowing. Because there was no water flowing you had no suction at the skimmer.

How many opening does the pool have? We know of the waterfall, the return near the waterfall and the skimmer and the main drain. Are there any other ports, etc.?
 
So now I repaired the section with the leak, returned the brown valve and reset the jandy actuated valve to thier original positions, and attempted to fire up the system. How long should it take for water flow and pressurization of the filter? I only let it run for a min. or two, but I'm not 100% today and I was afraid of burning out the pump! As I sat here thinking about it, I changed nothing of the existing set-up so, how long does it normally take for water flow? As for determining how many ports it is difficult to tell with the water so green...
 
You should start to see water action in the pump lid pretty quickly and fully prime (almost no air in the pump lid) in a couple minutes. You should start to see pressure in the filter pretty fast. If you do not then there might be a lot of air entering on the suction side.

Did you open the relief valve on top of the filter with the pump on to purge it of air?
 
if filter is packed , then getting a prime will be tough.... may need to clean the filter... also make sure since water was hot you may need to fill Pump Pot full with water after the replumb.. and check to see if water leaks between where the motor meets the pump , sometimes you can ruin the seal also when you overheat causing slow to no prime also...
 
Due to circumstances beyond my control :hammer: , along with good ole Murphy's Law, I am finally able to use my computer and access the internet!!!! I feel like I've been on the moon!

Not a minute too soon either!!! I am once again in desperate need of help & advice!! Aug. 2012, we began having an intermittent problem with our pool pump, first it was slow to prime, occasionally we would have to fill the pump manually to get the system started, it was inconsistent and at that point self-primed more often than not. Now the pump needs to be primed manually EVERY DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

???????????I have tried cleaning the filter cartridges and housing, including my skimmer and pump baskets, I have inspected the equipment and there are NO visible leaks, the filter seems to have adequate water pressure, the water level in the pool is good.
Whatever is happening with the system, we are not losing water in the pool itself, but during down time we are losing pressure.
I have ordered new gaskets for both the pump basket and the filter housing, they are not leaking any water, but I figured that would be the place to start................any suggestions?????
 

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You were offline for 8 months? How did you resolve your first set of issues?

Anyway, on to your problem now. Is there air in the pump strainer basket when the pump is running? Look VERY carefully.....it is often hard to see.
 
Hey Guys! Its been awhile, and we have our existing issues and some new ones too! It has come to my attention(my husband has been starting the pump every day to prolong changing out the timer/panel) what I didn't realize was the issues he has been having with the pump losing prime. I also didn't realize that he has been running the equipment day(s,s) on & day(S,s) off. Thanks to the cold weather and low temp of the pool combined with the cover I got last summer "opening" the pool has been a non-issue water wise. I was having some issues logging in recently and my husband joined and posted with our current troubles. At this point we know its a suction side leak and based on the prior work(we saw his handy work last year) the tech who installed it is the start of the problem. At this point when I shut down the system I can hear the water being sucked back to the pool at the check valve. I plan on opening it up tomorrow. What indicates, whether the valve or the (possibly incorrect)installation of the valve is the issue? How can I test the check valve?? Also, in the (likely)event that it needs to be replaced, I was considering upgrading to a Jandy check valve/flow meter in one to replace it. I figured with the equipment at 8-10ft above the pool, once I trace my suction side leak, that would be the most efficient way to keep it primed.Please advise !!
 
So I pulled the check valve and the gasket on the flap is completely shot. This particular valve is not one that can be rebuilt, either so at this point the pool is down, unless I put it back as is, until I can get another part(not easy in a small town on a Sunday). Any suggestions for the placement(should I move it ?further up & sideways? just replace the union or replace the whole section?) or for a certain brand and part # would be great.
 
carlscan26 said:
Do you have every pipe at the pad mapped out?

What are the other issues you're having?
Click to expand...
I think so, but I'm not sure who did what or why. I have a theory, based on facts I know about the last "pool" guy & previous owner and through my own observation. I believe that the original filter was DE or sand, with a smaller pump.I think it could explain the fact that the pipes seem to take a long trip to the solar( I assume to decrease pressure)since the panels need to be flow fed(vs pressure fed). One thing that confuses me is the shared return between the solar & the waterfall. Wouldn't adding the "unheated" water to the solar pipe create pressure in that line? Unless that was why they painted all the pipes dark, to heat the water in the line? When the guy installed the new filter & pump, he changed it from 1 1/2" to 2" and 1.5hp pump, maybe he did not consider the added pressure and he blew out the solar? That could also explain the flow meter(gauge) with the top blown out. When I put the JA valve to the "off" position, it opens the line with alot of pressure, actually shaking the pipes. I also noticed that even when I turn the valve to the setting that closes the line, if the red handled gate valve right behind it is open, it doesn't matter! In short its all theory, I don't know why the drain was disconnected or why another of those aquarium valves was used at one point, based on my recent experience with the one on the skimmer line it does not surprise me that it did not work, and in fact probably made the situation worse if it was a priming issue. Since installing the Jandy check valve and changing the position, the system stays primed and starts instantly...I love it!! Right now when the pump shuts down I can see & feel water & air entering the solar lines and I get some bubbles from the returns in the pool. Where would you start? Is there a way to test the drain?
 
Honestly, I think your best bet is to rip it all out and re plumb it correctly and cleanly. Clean up the valves so you can't dead head the pump. On my system the waterfall and returns are on a three way valve after the solar so I can send heated water to the pool either through the returns or the waterfall. Check out this site for how you want the solar piped: http://www.h2otsun.com/ Scroll down a bit to the diagrams. Notice there is a diverter valve between the solar shut off valves that you will use to balance pressure to the panels.

2" plumbing is good - it provides for more efficient flow
 
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