I agree with
@elwood58 that the internal flow override is good enough, I run mine that way all the time, so I don't really consider that an "error" per se. At the risk of complicating things, I suppose one could argue that controlling the heater on a schedule (that matches the pump) adds a bit of redundancy since in that case you don't have to rely solely on the flow sensing in the heater. I've seen flow / pressure switches fail, but to date have only seen them fail "open circuit" so in that case the heater won't run at all and still protected.
The issue for me is cost during the coldest months. I tend to set the heater temp low so it won't come on - generally Nov thru Feb in SW FL - or I just turn it off Dec/Jan. Depending on weather, if it takes more than 8 hours heater daily run time to maintain a swimmable temp, we surrender and shut it off unless guests are present. 8 hours run time approaches $150 / month in pool heat cost, assuming 5000 watts and 12 cents/kwh. If you do let the water temp drop into the low 70s or so, you'll find it takes a couple days of extra run time to catch up in time for vacationing guests' arrival.