Hayward New Cell High Salt/AMPS

[sefrlw]

Ok I have searched and read all the previous threads about this issue. I just want see if there is anything else I can do before I replace the board. It of course started with replacing the cell. Then the High Salt and AMP warning came. I took the board out and found the burned solder joint. Soldered the joint and still getting the High Salt/AMP error. I had to resort to putting a hair dryer on the cell to get it warm enough to test just now since it is 48 degrees. after about 10 min the cell was allowed it to turn on.

What I have...


What I found...



I am thinking that the trace is burnt beyond use now.... Can I just solder a wire between these 5 solder joints? It looks like those are the only pins in that trace...



This is what it is doing now that I had the cell warm enough to turn on and after 20 seconds.

 

[ajw22]

Did you check your water salinity with the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test ?

Check that your cell type is set correctly. The incorrect cell type will cause incorrect salt readings.

Check the cell type on your new cell and check what is in the system.

Did you get a new Hawyard cell or a 3rd party cell?

@JamesW

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[flynwill]

Those two brown capacitors in at the top of the board in the first picture appear to be bulging and are likely close to failure if not failed. That might be the root cause of your problems.

That cooked trace is likely still ok, I would try reflowing the solder on that one connection and check with a good ohmmeter. (you will likely need a relatively large tip for your iron to get enough heat as I don't see any heat relief between those pads and that big trace).

 

[sefrlw]

Did you check your water salinity with the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test ?

Check that your cell type is set correctly. The incorrect cell type will cause incorrect salt readings.

Check the cell type on your new cell and check what is in the system.

Did you get a new Hawyard cell or a 3rd party cell?

@JamesW

AJW It is a T-15 Hayward Cell. the old Cell was an older version of the same Hayward T-15 Cell. It is an Aqua Plus

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

I have not yet done a Salt Test...

I will try this. Not sure I understand the Diagnostic instructions but I will go try them right now and report back.

 

[sefrlw]

Those two brown capacitors in at the top of the board in the first picture appear to be bulging and are likely close to failure if not failed. That might be the root cause of your problems.

That cooked trace is likely still ok, I would try reflowing the solder on that one connection and check with a good ohmmeter. (you will likely need a relatively large tip for your iron to get enough heat as I don't see any heat relief between those pads and that big trace).

When I reflowed the one pin I did ohm it out to the orange wire on the front side and it did have continuity. Should I check it in another manner?

 

[sefrlw]

Ok correction. It is a TCEL940 which is to be set as a TCELL-15 in the settings and it is

 

[sefrlw]

Here are the numbers when I start and when I reverse polarity.

 

[JamesW]

The high voltage is typical of a damaged board.

If you cannot fix the board, you will need a new board.

 

[sefrlw]

Thank you all for your input! I ended up getting the board repaired. I cannot say enough good things about this person and give his service justice! When James post his last reply I went searching for new boards. To my shock I found boards were anywhere from $500-$1400. That was not going to happen for sure. These boards are pretty simple to fix from what my meagerly educated in electronics mind could determine. I spent hours looking for a better price on boards and then came across Bruce. I emailed him to ask some questions and sent him some pictures. He was confident that the board could be repaired. He even helped me figure out how to keep my pump running without having to rewire it. Never knew the relay had a manual switch on it. So once I got it running with board out I sent it off and it was repaired and back within a week. The pool is now running and chlorinating like it always has. DO NOT hesitate to use this man’s services in the future! ️️️️ For his customer service!

Oh yeah. The salt level was spot on after it ran for 15-20 minutes.

HTTPS://Haywardboardrepair.com is his website.

 

[stephenson]

Thank you all for your input! I ended up getting the board repaired. I cannot say enough good things about this person and give his service justice! When James post his last reply I went searching for new boards. To my shock I found boards were anywhere from $500-$1400. That was not going to happen for sure. These boards are pretty simple to fix from what my meagerly educated in electronics mind could determine. I spent hours looking for a better price on boards and then came across Bruce. I emailed him to ask some questions and sent him some pictures. He was confident that the board could be repaired. He even helped me figure out how to keep my pump running without having to rewire it. Never knew the relay had a manual switch on it. So once I got it running with board out I sent it off and it was repaired and back within a week. The pool is now running and chlorinating like it always has. DO NOT hesitate to use this man’s services in the future! ️️️️ For his customer service!

Oh yeah. The salt level was spot on after it ran for 15-20 minutes.

HTTPS://Haywardboardrepair.com is his website.

That link didn’t work - this should: Hayward Board Repair by B&L Enterprises