Good day! I opened my pool last week, got everything working including the heater (had to clean out the tubes before it would stay lit, but was working fine yesterday). I have an older (17? years) Hayward H250 propane heater. I went to turn it on this morning, as the pool is still pretty cold, and it ran for a couple of seconds and then poof, went dead. Seemingly no power at all (digital display dead, no error codes, no lights). Checked all the breakers, and they are fine. Any ideas what might have happened? Is there any srt of internal breaker? There was something that looked like an automotive fuse on the control circuit board, but it seemed intact. I DID replace the control panel keypad last year with a non-hayward one (I had done that 4 years or so before, too, as the buttons had gotten very touchy). Is it possible that has died and it is causing this? I can replace that easily enough. I realize the heater is due for replacement some time soon, but if I can avaoid replacing it right now (and be able to swim sooner than I can get a replacement) that would be great! Also, the new hayward heaters have the inlets at just over 13" and mine is at around 18" so I'll also need to redo the piping and fittings, which is another reason I'd like to fix it for now. Any thoughts? I am reasonably handy. I was trying to get voltage readings internally and I only seemed to get them in a few places, but I was unsure what might be switched and what was unswitched and therefore would not be affected by a wonky control panel. I attach a photo for reference.
Hayward H250 propane heater problem
- Thread starter nagrath
- Start date
So I ordered a new keypad, but still don't know if that could be causing this. Any ideas anyone? Should I replace the control board itself? Transformer seems to be putting out ~24VAC on both sides, sensors have continuity. I am getting nothing on the digital display, and no mode light. I am flummoxed. Was working fine early this morning, then *poof*
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have 24V AC at this point?
The inside of the heater shows a lot of corrosion, including around the igniter and gas valve. I wouldn't invest a lot of money in it.
The inside of the heater shows a lot of corrosion, including around the igniter and gas valve. I wouldn't invest a lot of money in it.
Update, not that anyone appears to be following along! The 24V Pin on the control board (which is version 1134-500B fyi) does have power, but the 6V pin does not. The sensors all seem to have continuity. Solder connections on the board all look good, nothing obviously loose or broken. Still getting NOTHING on the display or LEDs, and obviously no ignition. The chips on the board don't seem blistered or cracked, though the resistors were getting quite hot when power was connected. No recent power surges, lightning strikes or other anomalies. Proper output on both sides of the transformer as best as I can see. Will try a new keypad tomorrow but I am not optimistic. The current one is less than a year old but was very sensitive, advancing the mode 2 stops with just a light tap.
Thanks AJW22! Yes, 24V - just checked. It was working well before. Should I try to clean those connections at the gas valve and elsewhere? I don't want to invest a lot in it, but I also don't want to spend $3000 to replace it.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Where did you measure 6V? Is it 6V AC or DC?
If you have 24V AC into the board and then lose voltage within the board, it says chips on the board have failed.
If you have 24V AC into the board and then lose voltage within the board, it says chips on the board have failed.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
No, if the board is not powering up and going through the start sequence, you will not be powering the gas valve.
Yeah, I am looking at replacing the board, which is better than replacing the whole unit. Not a board in great supply though. The whole bezel assembly with the board is available for around $650. Any other things to check?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Right next to the 24v pin you circled, it said "6V" but I could not get any voltage reading at that pin. Is it supposed to be AC or DC?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It says GV for Gas Valve.
That line leads to the Gas Valve and will supply 24V to the gas valve to open it at the proper time in the startup.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have three loops in that connector:
- 24V AC transformer power - orange
- Gas Valve opening - violet
- Safety sensors - green
OK, I have power on the 24v loop, continuity on the sensor loop, and nothing on the GV loop (You say it turns on during the startup). Those all seem to be OK. Any other circuits I can check? Anything that would keep any display elements from coming on?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Apologies for the stupid question, but my electronics experience is almost entirely in DC circuits. When measuring the voltages on the right side of the transformer, I did notice that, with the multimeter set to AC voltage, for some of the connections I only got a voltage reading if I put the red probe on the black/common post and the black on the post I was trying to measure - is that expected? I would have thought with AC it would not matter, OR the black probe would need to go on the common terminal (or I would get a negative voltage reading, like reversing the polarity on a DC circuit). I can't recall if the the 24v pin voltage was similarly "reversed".
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
On the right side of the transformer there is a terminal block with red, black, red, and pink wires connected. If I put the black probe on the black terminal and check voltages at the other terminals, I get 24V but only in certain directions. Are those supposed to ne AC or DC at that location?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Look at your wiring diagram.
24V AC is on the transformer output Y and GY wires. Red circled.
The other wires are on the high voltage transformer input side. Blue circled.
