Hey everyone, I am brand new to the forum, my pool info is in my sig, I am really new to pool chemistry I used to clean my friends pool almost every day but his dad did all the chemicals, here's my trouble I keep getting algae growth on the sides and floor of my pool, no full bloom, but it has to constantly be scrubbed off. I learned for myself not to bring my water to the pool store, they did a great job with the brand new liner last summer and did the opening chemicals, suggested I float tabs and I bought everything from them and did exactly what he said and for a week no chlorine on the tests, even their test came up zero so not going there. Up until finding this site I have been using test strips, when my overtime hits this week I will order a good kit per your suggestions. I have stopped using the pucks since finding the site, and have been adding liquid shock which lists 12.5% sodium hypochlorite, the strips show 10PPM FC and my test kit only goes up to 5, not sure if it's an accurate thing to do but I did 50/50 pool water/filtered water and tested and got 5PPM, so I assume I have at least 10PPM. The algae seems to come back every 3 days or so and my pool always smells like chlorine. After testing with a cheap kit I believe my CYA is high 70-80, I still want the better kit and need to get used to the test, so by the CYA/FC chart I should be at the 10PPM level. I have been adding algaecide once or twice a week, adding a full gallon after scrubbing the algae, after reading someone elses post I was wondering if my algaecide is part of the problem? It is cheap stuff, lists the active ingredient as n-Alkyl(60%C14 30%C16 5%C12 5%C18) dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 4.98%, n-Dialkyl(60%C14 30%C16 5%C12 5%C18) methyl benzyl ammonium chlorides. We have had really poor pool weather in the past couple of weeks, cloudy, rain, fluctuating temps, but it has finally become pool weather and I want to stop the algae from coming back, I know better test results would be more helpful, right now my main concern is the algaecide, is it bad stuff? and what should I use? For what the test kit is worth with the FC at 10 or more I have pH 7.2, TA 70, CH 250, and CYA best I can tell is 70-80. I forgot to check the water temp but it has been holding pretty well at 78-80*F. Sorry for the lengthy first post but I have already learned I have been using the wrong stuff from listening to pool store clerks, and want to start remedying the situation, even with my troubles this year has been far better than last year. Thank you for your time and hope you all are enjoying your pools.
Having issues with algae and balancing the chemistry
- Thread starter mechanikmike
- Start date
Welcome to TFP 
I reccomend stopping with the Algaecide ASAP. Algaecide is a preventive at best and not a cure. The cure for your algae is the SLAM process. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Shock
Level
And
Maintain
You'll need to wait until you get that quality test kit. when you get the kit post results and ask question and you'll find no shortage of help here. Keep reading in the mean time and welcome again
I reccomend stopping with the Algaecide ASAP. Algaecide is a preventive at best and not a cure. The cure for your algae is the SLAM process. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Shock
Level
And
Maintain
You'll need to wait until you get that quality test kit. when you get the kit post results and ask question and you'll find no shortage of help here. Keep reading in the mean time and welcome again
Hi Mike, welcome to the forum! Fellow Mass pool owner here (Sturbridge). Basically, it sounds like you have algae that isn't being controlled. The chlorine smell is the result of CC in your pool, which indicates the FC is being consumed by organics (algae) in your pool. At a CYA level of 80, you need to keep at least 6 FC, and target between 9-11 FC to maintain. How often are you adding the shock? As you noted, you really need a quality test kit as a first step to start tackling this problem. I would stop adding algaecide and simply add bleach daily in order to not allow things to get any worse while you wait for your kit to arrive. Once you have that, do a full set of tests (FC, CC, CYA, pH, TA, CH), and post the results, and folks will guide you. You'll likely need to perform a SLAM as a first step, so you might as well stock up on bleach now -- I'd recommend at least 10 given your CYA level (if that's accurate) while you wait for your kit to arrive.
Welcome! 
We appreciate that you've been reading plenty here so that what we post isn't a foreign language to you.
That algaecide makes the pool smell bad and uses up FC. You don't need it.
If CYA is 80, you'll need massive amounts of bleach to raise FC to shock level. You'll also use massive amounts of FAS-DPD reagents just testing it that high. So don't skimp on the test kit.... the regular K-2006 will not have nearly enough reagents. Get a K-2006C or a TF100. I'd spring for the XCL option on the TF100 too, if you go that route.
A SLAM and routine maintenance afterwards will both be easier with a lower CYA level. So if you have the ability to replace some water while you eagerly await a test kit, do so. If average depth is 66 inches, draining off 3" will lower CYA almost 5% each time.
Until you get a kit and can do things properly, just keep doing what you're doing.... minus the algaecide.
Incidentally, if your current kit measures everything, you could just get the FAS-DPD setup. TFTestkits.net
We appreciate that you've been reading plenty here so that what we post isn't a foreign language to you.
That algaecide makes the pool smell bad and uses up FC. You don't need it.
If CYA is 80, you'll need massive amounts of bleach to raise FC to shock level. You'll also use massive amounts of FAS-DPD reagents just testing it that high. So don't skimp on the test kit.... the regular K-2006 will not have nearly enough reagents. Get a K-2006C or a TF100. I'd spring for the XCL option on the TF100 too, if you go that route.
A SLAM and routine maintenance afterwards will both be easier with a lower CYA level. So if you have the ability to replace some water while you eagerly await a test kit, do so. If average depth is 66 inches, draining off 3" will lower CYA almost 5% each time.
Until you get a kit and can do things properly, just keep doing what you're doing.... minus the algaecide.
Incidentally, if your current kit measures everything, you could just get the FAS-DPD setup. TFTestkits.net
Thanks for the input, I'll stop the algaecide, going to get the tf100 kit, and hopefully the extra reagents one. I really don't fully trust the results I get now so I will just add chlorine daily, I cleaned the algae up Monday and added half a gallon of the 12.5% sodium hypochlorite, the water itself is clear unless I scrub up algae, yesterday it was good and got used by the rest of the family while I was sleeping, added another half gallon of 12.5% and the algaecide, it got used today and the test kit I have shows the FC off the chart, maxxes at 5PPm, tonight the algae is starting to grow, just small spots, but the water is almost 85*F and it will just grow, so I added a full gallon of the 12.5%. Any thoughts on a pool this warm that is almost always in the sun that gets moderate daily use, assuming the CYA is at least 60 since my cheap test kit seems to show 70-80, what would you suggest for daily additions to try to stop it until the new test kit comes in? Thank you for your help!! And I hope the weather has been better in Sturbridge, we have had rain almost every day up until this week
Ok, ended up getting the K2006, had trouble with both my laptop and Droid following everyone's links for the TF100 and here are the results, first off I will say I fully understand everyone suggesting these kits, super easy to use and get results. My only question was doing the CC test the very first drop changed the solution clear, but after 15-30seconds it would turn back, and another drop would clear it up, then another 15-30 seconds and it went pink again? In total it took 7 drops to stop the color from returning after 30 seconds, which would be 3.5PPM with the 10ml sample test.
My CYA is even higher than originally thought 80
FC 12.5
CC- 0.5 initially but after waiting a couple of seconds, see above, then it became 3.5
pH 7.4
TA 80
CH 270
going by the CYA/Chlorine chart for my CYA of 80 I should be shocking at 31PPM, and the pool math calculator came up with 399 Oz of the 12.5% sodium hypochlorite for shock level. My water is clear, you can see to the bottom no problem but that pesky algae keeps coming back, so to start doing the slam I need to shock it and check it hourly throughout the day and maintain shock level and since I am clear do I just check for the overnight loss test? Like I said, I am new to actually taking control of the pool and not being reactionary, and my trust in the people at the pool store has been totally lost after learning the tabs added so much CYA, I will eventually start swapping some water to try to drop the CYA. What are your thoughts? Thank you.
My CYA is even higher than originally thought 80
FC 12.5
CC- 0.5 initially but after waiting a couple of seconds, see above, then it became 3.5
pH 7.4
TA 80
CH 270
going by the CYA/Chlorine chart for my CYA of 80 I should be shocking at 31PPM, and the pool math calculator came up with 399 Oz of the 12.5% sodium hypochlorite for shock level. My water is clear, you can see to the bottom no problem but that pesky algae keeps coming back, so to start doing the slam I need to shock it and check it hourly throughout the day and maintain shock level and since I am clear do I just check for the overnight loss test? Like I said, I am new to actually taking control of the pool and not being reactionary, and my trust in the people at the pool store has been totally lost after learning the tabs added so much CYA, I will eventually start swapping some water to try to drop the CYA. What are your thoughts? Thank you.
For SLAM when we say clear water is one of the three criteria we mean no visible algae
Once up to shock level for your CYA be sure to brush well as well. Algae does develope a biofilm and brushing will help the chlorine kill it. Sounds like you have the hang of this already
Once up to shock level for your CYA be sure to brush well as well. Algae does develope a biofilm and brushing will help the chlorine kill it. Sounds like you have the hang of this already
Just scrubbed it down and added the 3+gallons of chlorine the pool math called for, in between the rain, gonna cook dinner and eat and go check on the levels