Green pool, SWG broken - advise on how to maintain pool until SWG is fixed.

Few more thoughts and things you can expect...

If the water doesnt clear up in a day or 2, think about adding a little DE to your filter.. Adding DE Thatll help filter the little stuff that the sand doesn't catch.

Think about doing an OCLT tonight. You are right on the edge of finishing your slam but the 3 criteria need to be passed in order to be complete. With your pool, as with most, clarity will be the determining factor. Most can get he FC to hold and CC to nil but the water needs to be clear as well..

Let all the guys that told you shock your pool about how much it had changed with only bleach.. They will be surprised!! Then when they come over and see how sparkly your water is, you wont be able to get them out of the water...

Insights on Pool stores-
Most pool stores only care about the almighty dollar and will sell you anything they think you need. Their test results are generally far from accurate and help push the most expensive products... All these products are really just band aids that will help temporarily and usually cause more harm than good down the road. The goal at TFP is clean and clear... If your water is sanitized (bleach-bleach-bleach) and filtered it will be the best environment for you and your family. Unfortunately, most folks in the industry don't understand the chemistry behind a pool and are quick to throw in premixes and whatever worked on this other guys pool. All pools are different and will react differently to random additions...

NOBODY cares more about your pool than you do... Trust your results, even if you may think they are inaccurate. If you suspect something isn't right, test again.
 
As quick as it changed from green to blue, you should be able to swim soon...hopefully by the weekend...
It looks like your FC held overnight for the most part so that is doing good... wont know for sure until you do the OCLT. Read the steps on how to do that..
The cloudiness is the dead algae and it should filter out soon.. keep an eye on the clarity.

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Post some pix if you can so we can see the progress

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From JVTrain in another thread about swimming during a slam...

You can swim at any FC below the shock level listed in the CYA/Chlorine chart. That is, provided you can clearly see the bottom of the pool and the pool surface is not so slippery to be dangerous. Safety first.

Dead algae is usually a light grey color and will fluff up when brushed around. Frequent brushing of the dead algae will make the water cloudy temporarily but that's the only way you're going to get it to go in the filter through the main drain or skimmers. You MUST get that light out of there and scrub behind it while at SLAM FC levels. Ladder too. Lights usually aren't as bad as they seem, most are a single screw at the top of the light and they tip out of the niche and can be lifted on the deck, as long as the wire behind the light was left long enough, as it should be.

You can swim during the SLAM, provided the FC is below shock level and the other things I mentioned. Keep in mind that it is safe to swim at these elevated FC levels but it will be a bit harder on swimming suits (fading) and you may have more eye/skin irritation as well. Showering and rinsing of suits would be a good idea after swimming if you choose to do so.
 
Thanks for all this information.
Ive been in wall to wall meetings this week as well so not always easy to read your comments and respond.
Here are pictures taken about an hour ago.Pool 04Aug16 1.jpgPool 04Aug16.jpg

Per your earlier question, I forgot to add that my SWG is still on and so would have added Chlorine during the night but I didnt add anything else.

Next steps based on what you have told me should be- test FC tonight before sundown and add bleach to take it to 16 fc again.
Then wait 30 mins after sundown to perform OCLT.

Could you confirm that I am correct?
 

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It seems like it. I'm praying as our summer is very short.

Another question - if the OCLT works, how do I get the FC level to goal level. Do I dilute with water or just let it diminish naturally over time?
 
Nope.. you just let it drift back down to normal levels... then monitor and maintain those levels.. never letting it drop below the minimum.. or we are doing this all over..
I generally keep my FC 1-2 over the target just to account for sun burn off during the day but with the SWG you have, it should take care of that for you once you get it dialed in..
 
Your help has been amazing. I can't thank you enough.

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Under normal conditions, how often should I test FC levels? And how important is it to check the other levels regularly?
 
Coming late to the party but cj3737 really has you covered well and understands this process well, and you can't beat his response time, But I thought I would add that very high levels of FC can damage equipment bleach liner and not safe to swim in. So if you "shock it" excessively and are not testing, you do not know FC level and if you are causing excessive wear or damage to equipment.
 
Under normal conditions, how often should I test FC levels? And how important is it to check the other levels regularly?

Start with once or twice a day for FC and CC and PH until you start building a predictable pattern, then once a day, then once every couple days...
I usually do a full check once or twice a week depending on how much water is evaporating or how much we are swimming. Helps to stay ahead of any potential problems..
 
I'm a little confused. What levels of FC are too high? and isnt the CYA / Chlorine chart built so levels are higher but low enough to not damage equipment and liner during the shock part of the slam?

Could you elaborate a little more so I understand fully?

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My last post was to pool amateur. Thanks.
 

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