I have shocked 2 days ago and no luck. I have added algecide no luck. I have been running my cheap Intex pump for 2 days straight, skimming top, brushing bottom for 2 days also. Someone said use liquid chlorine. I poured some bleach ...Clorox into pool half a gallon jug and threw in more algecide. Any suggestions? I tested water fc 7.4, cc0.4, cya 80-90, 90-200 all, ph 7.6-7.8...I do ranges cause I can never really be sure which color it is?
Green Intex pool help
- Thread starter Dawng
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!What test kit are you using?
You need one of the recommended FAS-DPD chlorine test kits that will allow you to follow the SLAM Process process to clear up your pool.
Right now, you FC is no where near high enough for your quite high CYA level ... see the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,897
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
It's good you have something to get accurate FC readings. Now you just need to follow the SLAM Process page. It's true those factory issued filters are not the most efficient, but at the same time you don't want to overload the water with other pool store products. Regular bleach is your best weapon. Be very careful of Clorox. This year they went to "Cloromax" additives which are not good for pool water. Stick to plain bleach that has no scents, not splashless, or contains no fabric/polymer additives.
Once you have algae, algaecides are a waste of $$. Chlorine kills algae, algaecides only "try" to prevent it from occurring. Before starting the SLAM, consider two things:
1 - Do you want to lower the CYA a little? It's high and would require a high FC SLAM level. But the season is almost over for some of you, so think about that.
2 - Before you increase the FC for the SLAM, lower the pH to about 7.2.
The rest is outlined on the SLAM Process page. Good luck!
Once you have algae, algaecides are a waste of $$. Chlorine kills algae, algaecides only "try" to prevent it from occurring. Before starting the SLAM, consider two things:
1 - Do you want to lower the CYA a little? It's high and would require a high FC SLAM level. But the season is almost over for some of you, so think about that.
2 - Before you increase the FC for the SLAM, lower the pH to about 7.2.
The rest is outlined on the SLAM Process page. Good luck!
How much drain? We already had to set up and drain our pool twice...unlevel and had hole. We can’t afford to drain and fill for a few more days of use? 7.4 is not high enough????
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Yes I used Clorox.....with cloromax? what do you mean by regular bleach????
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Funny I read increase ph so raised it higher today? Was at 7.2��so sick of conflicting info for pools! So now I guess I need myuric acid to lower or ph down right?
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How low do I want to go?
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Sorry just to read post 7.2
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Yes I used Clorox.....with cloromax? what do you mean by regular bleach????
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Funny I read increase ph so raised it higher today? Was at 7.2��so sick of conflicting info for pools! So now I guess I need myuric acid to lower or ph down right?
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How low do I want to go?
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Sorry just to read post 7.2
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,897
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
For the CYA, with little time left, just leave it then. You'll drain water in preparation for closing so just follow the FC SLAM level for a CYA of 90 as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
As for the Clorox, uh oh. Nothing you can do now. The Cloromax additives seem to foam and complicate things in pool water this year. If you have another source for regular bleach or liquid chlorine, I would use that. By regular bleach, I mean avoid anything that has scents, says splashless, or contains fabric/polymer additives. Each state/city seems to have their particular brands of bleach, so you'll have to find what's available in your area. Maybe someone else from IL will chime in. Wal-Mart usually has their Pool Essentials, but this time of year it's probably all gone. But a generic brand will work as well. On the bottle's ingredients, it should have "Sodium Hypochlorite" as the main ingredient followed by some water and perhaps a little sodium. That's it.
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Yes, the pH of 7.2 is for the SLAM process because when you increase the FC level for the SLAM Process, it will elevate the pH automatically. So we counteract that by lowering it first.
As for the Clorox, uh oh. Nothing you can do now. The Cloromax additives seem to foam and complicate things in pool water this year. If you have another source for regular bleach or liquid chlorine, I would use that. By regular bleach, I mean avoid anything that has scents, says splashless, or contains fabric/polymer additives. Each state/city seems to have their particular brands of bleach, so you'll have to find what's available in your area. Maybe someone else from IL will chime in. Wal-Mart usually has their Pool Essentials, but this time of year it's probably all gone. But a generic brand will work as well. On the bottle's ingredients, it should have "Sodium Hypochlorite" as the main ingredient followed by some water and perhaps a little sodium. That's it.
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Yes, the pH of 7.2 is for the SLAM process because when you increase the FC level for the SLAM Process, it will elevate the pH automatically. So we counteract that by lowering it first.
It says raise to 35...how much bleach in gallons is that? Is that possible? If I drain how much do ya take out?
The reduction in CYA is linear with the amount of water replace. Replace 50%, the CYA will go down by 50%.
You would use PoolMath to calculate how much bleach is required to reach a desired target level.
You would use PoolMath to calculate how much bleach is required to reach a desired target level.
Ya my husband won’t drain? So I have no idea what to do? I guess I’ll just keep adding bleach?
Then follow the SLAM Process process with 35ppm FC as your target.
NOTE: Use 10ml of water for your chlorine test so each drop is 0.5ppm to save reagents.
Actually, with that high FC, you could use 5ml of water so each drop is 1ppm until you are ready for the final OCLT check (then use the 10ml).
NOTE: Use 10ml of water for your chlorine test so each drop is 0.5ppm to save reagents.
Actually, with that high FC, you could use 5ml of water so each drop is 1ppm until you are ready for the final OCLT check (then use the 10ml).
Ok added the bleach. It’s changing to blue at least. Now I took out my chlorine tab floater is that correct? Also just curious how long it will take, when sage to swim and can you swim with high cya? When do I recheck chemicals after adding all that chlorine?
As the SLAM Process article states, at the start you want to try to test and adjust the FC every few hours (minimum of 2-3 times per day).
The SLAM process takes as long as it takes ... depends on how often you are testing and adjusting and how much gunk is in the pool. Could be a few days or over a week.
Yes, you do not want to use any more tablets as your CYA is already high.
It is safe to swim when the FC is greater than the minimum for your CYA in the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and you can clearly see the bottom of the pool.
The SLAM process takes as long as it takes ... depends on how often you are testing and adjusting and how much gunk is in the pool. Could be a few days or over a week.
Yes, you do not want to use any more tablets as your CYA is already high.
It is safe to swim when the FC is greater than the minimum for your CYA in the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and you can clearly see the bottom of the pool.
Not sure I understand when sage to swim...my fc is now 21 and my cya is 50-60? So does that mean I can’t swim this last weekend of summer?
Don’t understand when fc is greater than min cya? What am I looking at on chart ? What column?
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My pool is clear and can see bottom cya is 50 and fc is 18 sorry. How do I lower chlorine?
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My pool is clear and can see bottom cya is 50 and fc is 18 sorry. How do I lower chlorine?
Can someone explain the fc greater than the min cya in chart? Not sure what to look at in chart fc 18 cya 50? What columns am I to lol at? Don’t get the instruction ��
Did you replace water to lower the CYA?
If your FC is between the Minimum FC and the Shock FC listed in the chart for your CYA, (and you can see the bottom of the pool), then it is safe to swim.
If your FC is between the Minimum FC and the Shock FC listed in the chart for your CYA, (and you can see the bottom of the pool), then it is safe to swim.