GFCI Trips after Poweroutage

[dogsbody]

In this situation, a small amount of current, as little as 4 or 5 milliamps, is detected by the “sensing coil” built into the GFCI device, and the unit “shuts” off the circuit, stopping the flow.

As a point of reference for those unfamiliar with the subject matter: 4-5mA may not sound like a lot, and it isn't. But it can take as little as 20mA to stop your heart (100mA is more reliable) if the conditions are right, such as touching the voltage source with your left hand, and your right hand (or left leg) well-grounded, either of which will supply a good path through the heart. One of the thing we're taught early is that it's a lot safer to work on hot circuits if you keep one hand in your pocket. But that's why that differential threshold for tripping a GFI is so low.

 

[dogsbody]

The reading should be O.L, which means Open Line.

This is worth correcting. Meters vary, but generally speaking "OL" indicates "Overload", meaning the value is too high to display for the range chosen (and in the case of resistance, a high value which might be interpreted as an "open"). But the same meter, set for voltage and displaying "OL" is most certainly not telling you the circuit is open. It's telling you the voltage is too high to display on the chosen range - a very important difference.

 

[JamesW]

 

[JamesW]

It can mean Overload, Over Range, Over Limit etc.

For testing ohms, many people say that it means Open Line.






What is the range of a multimeter?

Digital multimeter range and resolution are related and are sometimes specified in a digital multimeter’s specifications.

Many multimeters offer an autorange function that automatically selects the appropriate range for the magnitude of the measurement being made.

This provides both a meaningful reading and the best resolution of a measurement.

If the measurement is higher than the set range, the multimeter will display OL (overload).

The most accurate measurement is obtained at the lowest possible range setting without overloading the multimeter.

Digital Multimeter: What is the accuracy, range and resolution? | Fluke

Using a multimeter that provides the right measurements is important. Knowing what those measurements mean is even more important. Accuracy and precision ensures the measurements you take will be useful; higher precision enables easier repeatability and higher accuracy means the your readings will b

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[dogsbody]

It can mean Overload, Over Range, Over Limit etc.

For testing ohms, many people say that it means Open Line.

What "many people say" is irrelevant. "Many people" do and say a lot of astonishingly stupid things that are not made smart by the quantity of people doing and saying them. Your voluminous quoting of online stuff does not back you up here, and is of no help. I may have been doing hot tubs for about four months now, but I have two degrees and 55 years of experience in electronics (both design and troubleshooting) behind me, which means my time using these things predates the broad introduction of DMMs by a handful of years. So "Overload, Over Range, Over Limit etc." I'm fine with. "Open Line" is not only nonsense, but potentially dangerous nonsense, and you can take that to the bank.

 

[JamesW]

Some meters actually say open.

Overload does not even make sense because you are not loading anything.

There's no load, so no overload.

Also, enough people use the term Open Line to make it an acceptable meaning for OL.

 

[JamesW]

How to Use an Ohmmeter to Measure Resistance & Continuity

Measure resistance & check the continuity of a circuit accuratelyAn ohmmeter is an electronic device that measures resistance in an electronic component or circuit. It works by using 2 probes to send a current through the circuit and...

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Basic measuring of resistance, voltage and current using digital multimeter

Digital multimeter has generally replaced the analog-type multimeter as the test device of choice for maintainers because they are easier to read, are often

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Test a Pressure Switch with a Multimeter

Ensuring HVAC systems work safely and efficiently starts with testing the pressure switch. Learn how with our simple guide.

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The Complete Guide To Using A Multimeter: Mastering the Basics and functions of a Multimeter.

A digital multimeter will display some figures for a second.

Note the reading.

And then instantly it will revert to the OL (Open Line) or infinity.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Using-Multimeter-Mastering/dp/B0C5GLRV8F

Broken wire. With this type of problem the current from the meter has no way of returning to the meter because of the break. So you will get an "Infinity" reading. Different meters will display this in various ways. Your meter (digital, of course) might read OL for Open Line.

Irrigation Association of New Jersey - Foolproof Electrical Troubleshooting

 

[JamesW]

hottub2024!, can you show pictures of the system and pictures of the individual pieces of equipment including the labels on the equipment?

 

[hottub2024!]

You're missing the point. It's not the tub that needs the neutral, it's the GFI. Take a closer look at the breaker, or even better, RTFM. It's a little hard to tell from the photo what's going on with all the white wires, but there's another neutral terminal on the GFI, apart from the white pigtail. One of them is for the incoming neutral, the other goes to the load.

And you're not going to perform any meaningful test on the GFI with a VOM/DVM. It's too complicated (internally) for that.

I replicated the setup from the original installation, not discarding any wires.
You mentioned an additional neutral to the breaker with the pig tail.
Here is the original setup before I replaced the breaker:

 

[hottub2024!]

You're missing the point. It's not the tub that needs the neutral, it's the GFI. Take a closer look at the breaker, or even better, RTFM. It's a little hard to tell from the photo what's going on with all the white wires, but there's another neutral terminal on the GFI, apart from the white pigtail. One of them is for the incoming neutral, the other goes to the load.

And you're not going to perform any meaningful test on the GFI with a VOM/DVM. It's too complicated (internally) for that.

Here is the original setup for the GFCI.
I really don't know what I'm missing

 

[hottub2024!]

You're missing the point. It's not the tub that needs the neutral, it's the GFI. Take a closer look at the breaker, or even better, RTFM. It's a little hard to tell from the photo what's going on with all the white wires, but there's another neutral terminal on the GFI, apart from the white pigtail. One of them is for the incoming neutral, the other goes to the load.

And you're not going to perform any meaningful test on the GFI with a VOM/DVM. It's too complicated (internally) for that.

This is the current GFCI setup

 

[dogsbody]

Can you please remind me whether you've tried disconnecting the two hot load wires (the blue ones) from the GFI? Isolate, isolate, isolate. If you do that and the GFI doesn't trip, then you reconnect them - with NOTHING connected to those wires at the tub end - and it does trip, the problem may be that the insulation is compromised somewhere between the GFI and the tub and causing the leakage (short, whatever) to ground.

 

[hottub2024!]

Shut off power at the main breaker panel and at the disconnect/subpanel.

Verify no voltage at the subpanel/disconnect.

Test for continuity/resistance from each hot wire to ground.

The reading should be O.L, which means Open Line.

If there is a reading for resistance (Ohms), then you have a path for current to leak to ground.

The ground fault might be on the other side of a relay, so you will probably need to disconnect each appliance and test for resistance/continuity from the power/hot terminals to ground.

Hot to ground should read O.L.

If there is a reading in ohms, then you have a ground fault.

Note: If the tub used a neutral, it would be more complicated because the neutral is a grounded conductor.

An appliance with a neutral can read conductivity from hot to ground through the appliance, through the neutral and to ground in the main panel unless you properly isolate the wires.

The neutral is called the “grounded conductor” because at the service panel, it is bonded to the ground conductor.

Thank you - let me try that and see where I go.