Getting FC up with new SWG

JoanC

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LifeTime Supporter
May 26, 2012
273
Rome, GA
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Finally got our new Circupool RJ60 plus installed day before yesterday. The guy was from a local pool service and very nice. I got a bonus! He’s a TFP believer!!

We had a hard pop up shower that ruined my owners manual so I have a couple of questions.
I was able to read upon start up to run the SWG at 70% for a few days then increase or lower % for suggested FC.

Pool is vinyl- approx 32,000 gal.
Intermatic timer set for 10 hrs day.
Off at night.
Numbers today -
FC 4.5 (was 7 when swg installed))
Ph 7.8
CYA 70
TA 60
CH 30—vinyl liner
Temp 89 F
Salt 3400 w/ Taylor salt test.
RJ60 says average 3700

1. Do I need to get FC up to 7 or higher target?
2. If so, be patient and let SWG get it up or supplement with liquid chlorine?
3. Should I run the pump continuously and cut back to 8-10hrs when FC is reached?
4. Home Depot has a pool muriatic acid box of 2. I’m not seeing a one gallon. Who’s the next best for just 1 gal?

Thank you!
Joan
 
Do I need to get FC up to 7 or higher target?
Yep. Liquid chlorine ASAP. Cells can't produce FC that fast.

Should I run the pump continuously and cut back to 8-10hrs when FC is reached?
For now - yes. Better to have more than not enough.

Home Depot has a pool muriatic acid box of 2. I’m not seeing a one gallon. Who’s the next best for just 1 gal?
Honestly, I always get their 2-packs. :)
 
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Once you get the FC up with liquid and set the module output and pump run time properly it should run itself. Always keep a jug of liquid chlorine around just in case. Just takes a bit of experimenting with run time and output. You'll get it. :goodjob:
 
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Once you get the FC up with liquid and set the module output and pump run time properly it should run itself. Always keep a jug of liquid chlorine around just in case. Just takes a bit of experimenting with run time and output. You'll get it. :goodjob:
Thank you for all of this! Exactly what I needed to know.
 
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On your acid question, I would suspect you rarely need to add acid, is that correct? Fill water TA and how much fill water do you add?

You might be best to get a lower % concentration acid. Check for Green labeled acid. Might not be in the pool aisle.
 
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On your acid question, I would suspect you rarely need to add acid, is that correct? Fill water TA and how much fill water do you add?

You might be best to get a lower % concentration acid. Check for Green labeled acid. Might not be in the pool aisle.
Correct. Rarely do I have to add acid. When needed in the past, I used the dry. Now with the cell, I’ll use the muriatic. I hate the fumes. I hope I won’t need it as often as some do. We’ll see.
I’ll test my fill TA when back home. Some pop up showers made recent fill every 2-3 days with near 100 temps.
I’ll get back to you. I know the Ph is really important for cell life.
 
Do not micromanage the pH. 7's, even 8 is fine. You have no CH so you will not scale up your SWCG.
 
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Do not micromanage the pH. 7's, even 8 is fine. You have no CH so you will not scale up your SWCG.
I checked my tap/fill water TA. It's 80ppm.
I had wondered why my TA went up on it's own from 40 to 60. I didn't think about the fill being 80.
I forgot about significant fill about a month ago due to a 2 inch slit in my liner. My leak guy couldn't get out here for 10 days. I lost about 1000 gal a day according to a water loss calculator. If correct, I added nearly10,000 gal of fill with TA of 80. That's 1/3 of my volume. Thus my TA increase from 40 to 60.
I'll look for the Green label acid. I won't worry about the Ph unless it goes crazy in one direction or the other.

Daughter in law and 4 grandkids came over and swam today for 3 hours. They love how the water feels!

Thank you and @Texas Splash for all of your help!
 

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@Texas Splash or @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta - You guys answered my questions about getting FC up and getting the right pump run time and SWG%. I'm not there yet.
numbers this morn
FC- 5.5
Ph 7.8
CYA 60 - working on 70 again. 3.5 in rain so let some water out.
Salt 3400
RJ 60 at 70%
SINGLE SPEED pump 9 hrs day

Yesterday morning FC was 5. Added 1 gal 10% liq Cl for a FC of 7.5 ( I never get more than 2.5 out of a gal of 10%)
single speed pump 9hrs. Swg 70%. Pool calc says this will add 3.1 ppm.
FC 6 at end of 9hrs
Am I correct in thinking 7.5 + the 3.1 = 10.6 was my available Cl for the day, then minus the FC of 6 at end of pump run gives me a usage of 4.6 for yesterday? (Temps near 100 each day)
.5 used last night for this morning FC of 5.5
I added 1 gal of 10% liquid Cl making total 8.
I increased run time by an hour to 10 hrs. SWG increased to 80% to produce 4ppm today.
FC should be near 8 by end of run time correct?

I had hoped the SWG could run at a lower percentage to preserve cell life along with no additions of liquid chlorine. Right now we're adding about the same amount of liq chlorine we did before IF, we run our typical 9 hrs a day. I ran the pump 24hrs for several days with SWG at 70% per owners manual for FC of 8 to be maintained but that single speed pump running 24hrs a day means over $100 a mo added to our power bill. VSP will be the replacement but not until the single speed dies.
Am I on the right track? If not help!
Until we get a VSP am I stuck with 10-12hr run time and higher cell %?

Thank you and Happy Summer!!!!!
Joan
 
Am I correct in thinking 7.5 + the 3.1 = 10.6 was my available Cl for the day, then minus the FC of 6 at end of pump run gives me a usage of 4.6 for yesterday? (Temps near 100 each day)
Yes
FC should be near 8 by end of run time correct?
7.4, but yes.
I had hoped the SWG could run at a lower percentage to preserve cell life along with no additions of liquid chlorine.
Cells are there to produce. I would use it, that is what it is there for. The only recommendation is not to run it 100%, 24/7.
Until we get a VSP am I stuck with 10-12hr run time and higher cell %?
Yep.

I have about the same size pool and RJ-60. I have a solar cover. I run 24x7. I run CYA of 90. I run at 10%-15% 24x7. When I pull the cover, I turn it up to 50%, and back to 10% when done.

You cell is a good size. Your constraint is your pump.

You could calculate the cost of electricity vs. cost of liquid chlorine. Your pump probably runs at 1200W. If your electricity is $0.15, an hour of runtime costs you $0.17. Running the pump longer is cheaper than adding chlorine.
 
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Am I on the right track?
You are thinking correctly Joan. There are a couple variables though to keep in mind. One is that the FC produced by our cells as noted in Poolmath and/or by the manufacture is under "ideal" conditions. Sometimes it can be a bit inflated just for advertising purposes. The key is that the cell is indeed producing chlorine, and it appears yours is. The other issue is the condition of the water itself. As you already know, organics play havoc on our cells. They simply aren't designed to keep up with those things, so if you ever have any doubt about the condition of the water or cell performance, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test right away.

Beyond those two issues, it does indeed boil down to pump run time and output settings. You have a good size pond over there, so it eats a lot of chlorine. I'm fortunate to have a 2 speed which I keep on low 24/7 so my cell can cycle on & off whenever it wants to.
 
Yes

7.4, but yes.

Cells are there to produce. I would use it, that is what it is there for. The only recommendation is not to run it 100%, 24/7.

Yep.

I have about the same size pool and RJ-60. I have a solar cover. I run 24x7. I run CYA of 90. I run at 10%-15% 24x7. When I pull the cover, I turn it up to 50%, and back to 10% when done.

You cell is a good size. Your constraint is your pump.

You could calculate the cost of electricity vs. cost of liquid chlorine. Your pump probably runs at 1200W. If your electricity is $0.15, an hour of runtime costs you $0.17. Running the pump longer is cheaper than adding chlorine.
Thanks a bunch!
I'm anxious to see the FC this evening. Hopefully I'm getting it and will be able to leave it alone for a day or two.
I'm going to take a look at the VSP prices again. I guess we could keep the single speed in case the VSP has issues down the road and we need an interim. Pool's gotta run! Thank you again!
 
You are thinking correctly Joan. There are a couple variables though to keep in mind. One is that the FC produced by our cells as noted in Poolmath and/or by the manufacture is under "ideal" conditions. Sometimes it can be a bit inflated just for advertising purposes. The key is that the cell is indeed producing chlorine, and it appears yours is. The other issue is the condition of the water itself. As you already know, organics play havoc on our cells. They simply aren't designed to keep up with those things, so if you ever have any doubt about the condition of the water or cell performance, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test right away.

Beyond those two issues, it does indeed boil down to pump run time and output settings. You have a good size pond over there, so it eats a lot of chlorine. I'm fortunate to have a 2 speed which I keep on low 24/7 so my cell can cycle on & off whenever it wants to.
Hi Pat! Thank you!
I understand there are variables and will keep that in mind. I've checked the water each evening after sun and each morn before sun with results of 0 or as I listed above, 0.5 loss this this morning. So OCLT is within normal limits. Pool is gorgeous and crystal clear.
My pump knowledge isn't great. I'm looking for bang for my buck of course. Is my pool too big for a 2 speed? Is it best to go with a VSP? How do you feel about the pumps at Discount Salt Pools?
Joan
 
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