Generic Hayward SWG No Flow problem

[Literye]

Hello all, hopefully one of you may be able to point me in the right direction with an issue I’m having.

My pool is about 3 years old and has a generic Hayward T15 style system. I replaced a failed cell a few months ago and about 3 weeks after I started getting constant no flow indications on the display panel. Somehow my flow switch cable got cut and oxidation could be seen on the exposed copper wires. I had my barely competent pool guy replace the flow switch but still reads no flow despite cleaning the DE filter, skimmers and pump. I also ordered another flow switch to test and still reading no flow and not generating chlorine.

In the meantime to have chlorine in the pool I’ve been manually adding chlorine.

Salt levels and chemical levels are good.

If I had known better I would have had a non-generic system installed from the start.

Any ideas where to explore next?

 

[chiefwej]

You can easily splice the wires back together. It’s a very simple two wire circuit. Open = no flow, Closed = flow. You can test the circuit if you still have the damaged sensor and connector. It has a phone type plug that is connected to the bottom of your control box. Just plug the old cut wire in there and twist the wires together to close the circuit. The no flow light should first start blinking, then after one minute go out, which indicates a flow.

 

[thomasandanita]

Possibly there could be something in the cell causing enough turbulence to the passing water causing false no flow signal.
You can plug a new sensor in and manually move it and see if the box recognizes the flow.

 

[Literye]

You can easily splice the wires back together. It’s a very simple two wire circuit. Open = no flow, Closed = flow. You can test the circuit if you still have the damaged sensor and connector. It has a phone type plug that is connected to the bottom of your control box. Just plug the old cut wire in there and twist the wires together to close the circuit. The no flow light should first start blinking, then after one minute go out, which indicates a flow.

thanks. I’ll give that a shot and see if it works. I want sure if there was a resistor in there and didnt want to short anything out.

 

[Literye]

Possibly there could be something in the cell causing enough turbulence to the passing water causing false no flow signal.
You can plug a new sensor in and manually move it and see if the box recognizes the flow.

I tried this. Even purchased a additional flow switch to test it with. No such luck.

 

[Literye]

Tried twisting the wires on the old switch and I’m still getting a no flow light.

any other ideas?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

If you are confident, remove the mainboard and inspect the modular jack connector on the pcb for corrosion. It is also possible the pin got stuck or broken!
If the connector jack is beyond repair, the workaround is to temporarily solder a jumper wire across pins 3 & 4 on the solder side of the pcb (see pic below). Or locally source one of those RJ-11 modular jacks with wires. Solder the red and green wires in place of the yellow jumper. Connect the flow switch and test.
The replacement part# for the modular jack is RJ11 Conn Jack, 6P/6C, RA Unshielded, part# 5555165-1, Digi-Key A31422-ND.