general closing questions (including balancing levels)

mjc123

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2018
114
Halifax, NS (Canada)
Pool Size
18500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hey all, have a few questions before I attempt my first closing this weekend:

1) 'm wondering what the recommended chemical levels are for closing (with a vinyl liner). I went to a free "pool closing seminar" at the local pool shop put on by their chem supplier, which was interesting but obviously they were trying to sell their products as well, so I'm somewhat critical of their recommendations. One that did seem to make sense was that they suggest raising the PH slightly above "normal" levels as too much acidity in the pool can cause the liner to swell and wrinkle (and they included several photos of pools they have seen where this occurred, including one where the liner had been in for less than a year). I don't recall seeing this, or anything come to think of it that specifically talks about closing levels vs normal levels for chems - so wondering what people's thoughts are on that.

2) How should I winterize the pool pump? also in the above mentioned seminar they suggested filling it with antifreeze to keep the shaft seals from drying out. They said that if you simply drain the water out that will prevent freeze damage of course, but that the seals can lose their flexibility if they remain dry too long. This also seemed logical but thought I'd check if others were of a similar mind

3) is there any consensus on how low I drain the water? it seems everyone suggests below the skimmer, but I see various opinions on whether to go below the returns or not. It seems going below the returns is certainly EASIER from the perspective of ensuring they are completely blown out, otherwise, if I understand right, you're basically trying to put a plug in a hole that has air blowing out of it. It seems to me that no matter how fast and accurate you are, you're inevitably going to have some water that leaks back in as you're getting the plug in. The "Pool School" page on closing an IG does mention draining below the returns.

4) the lights - I know that the previous owners (and the pool company who used to do closings) would remove the lights and sink them to the bottom via old bleach bottles filled with rocks. that makes sense in the shallow end, but in the deep end I'm wondering if it goes all the way to the bottom? the pool angles in towards the deep end (it's not a 90 degree corner at the bottom, more like a 45), so I can't imagine dropping it down and having it slide along the angled bottom - but if not, can it just hang with the weight attached? I have never taken the lights off before so I'm not sure how they're set up. if it's just a cable I wouldn't want to put tension on it all winter, but if there's usually some kind of tether then it seems fine. I guess I'll find out when I take them off, but thought I'd ask in case others do this

5) Lastly, I know I've posted this before, but I'm still stuck on the concept of blowing out the main drain (and incidentally, at the seminar I mentioned above, the local pool company said they never blow out main drains in the last 40 years of operation and have never seen damage caused by freezing - EXCEPT in the skimmer; particularly in above ground pools). Mind you, where I live our winters are fairly mild, with average temps probably around 25-35, and only a week or two where a cold spell drops to around 0 (if ever).

In any case, I will probably attempt the main drain with my shop vac if it's powerful enough, so I want to make sure I understand: The skimmer and main drain lines connect to a 3-way jandy valve, which then goes to the pump inlet. So I set the valve to the main drain side, and connect the shop vac (or air compressor or whatever) to the line that would connect to the pump inlet, correct? I blow air until it bubbles from the drain, then close the valve (turn it to the skimmer side, which will have a plug at the bottom of the basket so water shouldn't be in that line anyway, right?). Done? Does the Jandy valve seal airtight enough to maintain enough air pressure all winter long? It seems unlikely - I don't believe they are designed with maintaining air pressure in mind.

6) Oh - one last thing, I used to have a "Lock-in" style pool cover, kind of like this: https://www.poolsuppliescanada.ca/images/templates/liclanding/custom.jpg until a mouse decided to burrow through the entire roll and nest in the middle. Rather than spend $600 this year on a replacement, I bought a simple rectangular 40' x 25' tarp that I plan to lay over top and weigh down around the edges with whatever I can find, and probably add a few ropes tying the corners and edges to the fence posts around the pool. is that sufficient? I don't know how others cover their IG pools so I really have no idea.
 
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

Have you read the articles in pool school (Closing an in ground pool), and also have you reviewed my thread?

Concept of closing an IG Swimming Pool

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

Everything should be there. Once the main drain bubbles, shut off the valve to trap the air (Your done). The thread goes into detail on almost everything you are looking for. If questions are not answered after you read everything, please come back with any areas that are still confusing.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, nice cover!
 
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

Hey Catanzaro, yes, I did read both your thread and the pool school articles (specifically, "the closing an IG pool" article, which I referenced in my 3rd question). I understand that my post was a bit wordy, but I'm guessing you either didn't read it or skimmed it quickly.

1. The pool school article suggests the PH is adjusted to between 7.4 and 7.6, but that doesn't address my question
2. neither the article nor your thread addresses my second question
3. while there are many places that talk about how low to reduce the water level, I don't really understand the pros/cons to each. Is there any reason I should be aware of why I shouldn't drain below my returns?
4. also not addressed in the article or your thread (other than that you turn the breaker off to the lights)
5. This is definitely addressed in many threads including yours - I just question whether the Jandy valve is airtight under pressure for 5-6 months given that it is designed for water flow, and was wondering if anyone knows details on that
6. yeah, it *was* a nice cover.. until it got shredded. very unhappy about that. Might replace next year, but for now I'm just going with a rectangular tarp. Was asking if anyone has tips - I'm hoping we don't get strong enough wind to tear it off, but with water/snow on top and weights around the edge I hope that's enough
 
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

1) I'm wondering what the recommended chemical levels are for closing (with a vinyl liner). I went to a free "pool closing seminar" at the local pool shop put on by their chem supplier, which was interesting but obviously they were trying to sell their products as well, so I'm somewhat critical of their recommendations. One that did seem to make sense was that they suggest raising the PH slightly above "normal" levels as too much acidity in the pool can cause the liner to swell and wrinkle (and they included several photos of pools they have seen where this occurred, including one where the liner had been in for less than a year). I don't recall seeing this, or anything come to think of it that specifically talks about closing levels vs normal levels for chems - so wondering what people's thoughts are on that.

The pool school article suggests the PH is adjusted to between 7.4 and 7.6, but that doesn't address my question

On the forum, we have had no one post any issues with their liner in the winter. My PH is around 7.5 upon closing. When I open, it is always lower (because of the solid cover) at around 6.8. Within hours, the PH is increased to 7.2 and I aerate or add more borax to get up. My liner, after 5 years is in good shape. Close your pool with the normal PH. If you have a mesh cover, then 7.4-7.6 is exactly where you need to be. Clearly, they are trying to sell you products for the liner. If they only stated that the range should be between X & Y upon closing and nothing else, that is a different story. I have seen pool after pool that has been around for quite a long time without swelling and wrinkling. Main thing with the liners is the fading and once in a while a small piece will come off the track, probably due to a tight fit. Yes, liners will stretch, etc., but your PH will also change through the winter. There is nothing you can do about it.

2) How should I winterize the pool pump? also in the above mentioned seminar they suggested filling it with antifreeze to keep the shaft seals from drying out. They said that if you simply drain the water out that will prevent freeze damage of course, but that the seals can lose their flexibility if they remain dry too long. This also seemed logical but thought I'd check if others were of a similar mind

neither the article nor your thread addresses my second question

Never heard of this one. I have actually read on line that antifreeze should not be placed directly to a pump as it could damage the seals. When you clear the lines, there should be no water in the pump. There drain plugs are usually removed to all any remaining water to be removed. If there is any product to use on the shaft seals that prevents them from drying out during the winter and closing season, I am not aware of this. One would think a lubricant is necessary.

3) is there any consensus on how low I drain the water? it seems everyone suggests below the skimmer, but I see various opinions on whether to go below the returns or not. It seems going below the returns is certainly EASIER from the perspective of ensuring they are completely blown out, otherwise, if I understand right, you're basically trying to put a plug in a hole that has air blowing out of it. It seems to me that no matter how fast and accurate you are, you're inevitably going to have some water that leaks back in as you're getting the plug in. The "Pool School" page on closing an IG does mention draining below the returns.

while there are many places that talk about how low to reduce the water level, I don't really understand the pros/cons to each. Is there any reason I should be aware of why I shouldn't drain below my returns?

I close my returns under water for the sole reasoning that you can see if the winter black expandable plugs are leaking air. A little bit of water will always be left in the plumbing, no matter what. It is entirely up to the pool owner to decide what they are comfortable with. Drain 1" below the skimmer. Some people leave as is 1/2 way up the skimmer. There is no right or wrong answer.

4) the lights - I know that the previous owners (and the pool company who used to do closings) would remove the lights and sink them to the bottom via old bleach bottles filled with rocks. that makes sense in the shallow end, but in the deep end I'm wondering if it goes all the way to the bottom? the pool angles in towards the deep end (it's not a 90 degree corner at the bottom, more like a 45), so I can't imagine dropping it down and having it slide along the angled bottom - but if not, can it just hang with the weight attached? I have never taken the lights off before so I'm not sure how they're set up. if it's just a cable I wouldn't want to put tension on it all winter, but if there's usually some kind of tether then it seems fine. I guess I'll find out when I take them off, but thought I'd ask in case others do this

also not addressed in the article or your thread (other than that you turn the breaker off to the lights)

Your water level in the pool during closing should always be above the lights, no matter what. Most pool water will not freeze more than 2”-4” at most. There is too much latent heat behind the concrete, liner, fiberglass wall, soil, etc. You can even close a pool with the water level ½ way up the skimmers. Pool professionals do not sit and drain the water when they come and close the pool. All up to the homeowner to do this. I have never heard of anyone removing the lights for closing in the winter, but it is very possible. Again, you have to be comfortable where the level is and what you do with the lights.

5) Lastly, I know I've posted this before, but I'm still stuck on the concept of blowing out the main drain (and incidentally, at the seminar I mentioned above, the local pool company said they never blow out main drains in the last 40 years of operation and have never seen damage caused by freezing - EXCEPT in the skimmer; particularly in above ground pools). Mind you, where I live our winters are fairly mild, with average temps probably around 25-35, and only a week or two where a cold spell drops to around 0 (if ever).

In any case, I will probably attempt the main drain with my shop vac if it's powerful enough, so I want to make sure I understand: The skimmer and main drain lines connect to a 3-way jandy valve, which then goes to the pump inlet. So I set the valve to the main drain side, and connect the shop vac (or air compressor or whatever) to the line that would connect to the pump inlet, correct? I blow air until it bubbles from the drain, then close the valve (turn it to the skimmer side, which will have a plug at the bottom of the basket so water shouldn't be in that line anyway, right?). Done? Does the Jandy valve seal airtight enough to maintain enough air pressure all winter long? It seems unlikely - I don't believe they are designed with maintaining air pressure in mind.

This is definitely addressed in many threads including yours - I just question whether the Jandy valve is airtight under pressure for 5-6 months given that it is designed for water flow, and was wondering if anyone knows details on that

The valves are air tight as I have opened my pool in where air was still trapped in the line. This is why upon opening it takes a minute or so before the pump primes. I have even cleared the main drain in the spring, locked the valve, then opened the valve only to have water come back up the main drain plumbing, making my life easier as well.

Entirely up to you if you want to winterize the main drain or leave alone. You will hear the valve hissing and the main drain losing air, therefore being reflected by bubbles in the deep end. You could quickly isolate behind the valve with a black plug as well, which is what I usually do. This year, I will swap out the pump, so this will be done after the fact. In addition, I turn my skimmer Pentair Valve in the direction of the main drain as well. Skimmers are closed with a Gizzmo or plug, thereby not needing trapped air in the line.
 
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

If your pool lights are the type that have an opening in them that allows the water to cool them, such as aqua lamps, then you should remove them and place them on the deck. Depending on where you are your pool ice can be as deep as 3-4 ft.
 
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

Thanks to everyone on this forum who has either helped me directly or indirectly. I think I got everything sorted out except for blowing out the main drain, which I would need a stronger blower or air compressor for (I have opted to not to blow it out - based on our relatively mild winters and where the water level in the pipe would be, I'm confident it will be safe. Plus, I can always do that after the rest of the pool is covered).
I'm a bit concerned that I raised the FC too high before closing - it appears that the liner is a bit lighter where the water level used to be now that I've drained it - but perhaps it was always that way and I just never noticed it because of the water level. Too late to do anything about that though.
My biggest concern is the weight of snow and water on the tarp, which unfortunately, is a bit too small. I'm going to get a pool cover pump or something of the kind, and I'll slacken the ropes as much as I can on the sides, otherwise the grommets will definitely tear out - however, it was windy at the time and my primary goal was just to get it held down.. Otherwise, looks pretty good I think:

https://i.postimg.cc/Xq4MYzf7/IMG-3432.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

How far did you drain the water to close the pool? Below the skimmers (It appears), but not below the returns. Bring the water level up to lift the cover up. Add a lot of support on the outside of the covers. You should hug the pool walls with the cover, which will be very little if you bring the water up. You can even bring up 3/4 of the way on the skimmers. This is what I would do if this was my pool. Others may chime in as well.

Where did you fall in with chemistry? What is your fill water like, PH that is? Thanks!
 
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

How far did you drain the water to close the pool? Below the skimmers (It appears), but not below the returns. Bring the water level up to lift the cover up. Add a lot of support on the outside of the covers. You should hug the pool walls with the cover, which will be very little if you bring the water up. You can even bring up 3/4 of the way on the skimmers. This is what I would do if this was my pool. Others may chime in as well.

I drained it roughly 4" below the skimmer. You're right that it wasn't below the returns - it's roughly 1-2" above them. Originally I was going to drain below them, but then as I watched the water get lower and lower I decided to abandon that plan and plug them underwater since others seem to do this without problems. Seemed to work fine - I simply did it while the shop vac was blowing - a wet process, haha. I hadn't thought of raising the water level back to just under the skimmer - I guess I figured if water seeped in over the winter it would reduce the risk to the skimmer if it was kept dry. If I do refill it back up, I may have to rebalance it, which would be difficult/risky without any way of circulating the water - that's my only real concern with that. Agreed that the cover should hug the walls. They won't be able to go 90° simply because the tarp is not large enough to do that, but I definitly plan to bring in the edges as much as I can. This tarp was always intended to be a one-season stop-gap until I can get a proper cover made next year.

Where did you fall in with chemistry? What is your fill water like, PH that is? Thanks!

I don't have the numbers handy (at work now) but all I had to do was raise the TA and reduce the PH (from 8.0 down to 7.4). I'm still struggling a bit with testing as I don't have a proper test kit - so I have to rely on the pool store, which I don't trust. Planning to get the TF-100 next time I travel to the US
 
Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

If your pool lights are the type that have an opening in them that allows the water to cool them, such as aqua lamps, then you should remove them and place them on the deck. Depending on where you are your pool ice can be as deep as 3-4 ft.

I ended up figuring it out - they twist to release, and have a length of cable - not enough to safely put them on the pool deck (plus the cover would get in the way), but enough that I can sink them down near the bottom. Ice shouldn't get that thick in my neck of the woods.
 

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Re: general closing questions (including balancing levels)

Raise the level to at least 1/2 on the skimmer or 3/4 on the skimmer as suggested. The Gizzmo in the skimmer will absorb ice. You can also put some foam rope in there well.

With your chemistry, you just contradicted yourself. Raising TA only increases PH, not the other way. Why would you raise TA to lower your PH? Use your fill water and forget about chemistry as pool store results are useless. The amount of water that you are adding will change your levels slightly, but not in the danger territory. With the way your cover sits, the probability of it sinking is pretty good with rain and snow.

Test Kit (Canada) Taylor Kit

TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD: Amazon.ca: Patio, Lawn Garden
 
Re:  general closing questions (including balancing levels)

perhaps I was unclear with the chemistry thing. My TA was below the recommended 60-80 range and my PH was at 8.2. While I understand there is a relationship between the two, am I wrong to think that raising the TA and lowering the PH are not mutually exclusive?

As for the test kit - I'm aware of that one, but it irks me paying $152 CAD for a kit that basically provides half of the value of the TF-100 at $70 US ($91 CAD). that being said, I'm not sure when the next time I'll be in the US is, so I may just have to bite the bullet
 
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