Follow-up questions about pool balance

[survivalcar]

So I tossed in some Sodium Bisulfate that I had left over (just got back from the store with Muriatic Acid which I haven't used yet). I was planning to lower the pH to around 7 and then lower the alkalinity via aeration, as suggested here.

After the SB, the pH dropped from 7.8 to 7.4 and at the same time my TA dropped significantly from 140 to 110.

Do I need to aerate or am I good now? Aeration for me would involve placing a portable pump on the steps in the shallow end (30,000 gallons) and hurling water over the pool surface, while also turning the pool pump return jets upward (which makes some ripples but doesn't really seem to be agitating too much). Will that do it over several days? Do I need to?

Thanks for everything

Chris

FC = 7
CC = 0
pH = 7.4
TA = 110
CYA = 60

 

[727Pool_Life]

pH and TA are very closely related, you cant change one without the other. If your numbers put you with a good saturation index then you need not do anymore.

 

[mknauss]

The SB/acid lowers pH and TA simultaneously. Aeration raises pH. No effect on TA.

 

[survivalcar]

Thanks, I forgot all about the Saturation Index. It's a lot to learn!

Anyway, reading that wheel, it does seem that my calcium hardness is below the recommended level but I want to make sure I'm reading it right. The test water never really turns full blue but just a bluish tint. Is that the point to read it at?

We have well water that is incredibly hard and so we use a softener for the indoor plumbing, and as a result, the pool is partially filled with soft water each year. Seems to be the opposite problem from the hard water causing indoor plumbing problems.

I could raise the Calcium Hardness to bring the Saturation Index to around 0. Is that the way to go?

 

[Richard320]

Thanks, I forgot all about the Saturation Index. It's a lot to learn!

Anyway, reading that wheel, it does seem that my calcium hardness is below the recommended level but I want to make sure I'm reading it right. The test water never really turns full blue but just a bluish tint. Is that the point to read it at?

We have well water that is incredibly hard and so we use a softener for the indoor plumbing, and as a result, the pool is partially filled with soft water each year. Seems to be the opposite problem from the hard water causing indoor plumbing problems.

I could raise the Calcium Hardness to bring the Saturation Index to around 0. Is that the way to go?

I wouldn't bother. You have a vinyl pool. There's no plaster to etch. You can be as negative CSI as you want and nothing's going to happen.