Jason,
Thank you ... test strips didn't even occur to me. Bad data is worse than no data.
Chris
Thank you ... test strips didn't even occur to me. Bad data is worse than no data.
Chris
Foaming Problem
- Thread starter alexdash
- Start date
Won't such high shock FC destroy the white plaster? I was told that having too much free chlorine in the water eats up white plaster . Is this a myth? Won't it hurt the PVC pipes as well?
Chlorine / CYA Chart
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
Chlorine / CYA Chart
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
The whole point is that the "right" level of FC is a function of the CYA level.
All the pool chemical bottles I have (dichlor etc..) talk about 1-2 ppm of FC being "right", although that is probably too high with zero CYA and too low with high levels of CYA. The instructions on the back do have a hand-wavy comment about "not letting your CYA levels get too high", but they gloss over the fact that if you follow the instructions your CYA level will very quickly get too high for 1-2 ppm of FC to be the correct level.
All the pool chemical bottles I have (dichlor etc..) talk about 1-2 ppm of FC being "right", although that is probably too high with zero CYA and too low with high levels of CYA. The instructions on the back do have a hand-wavy comment about "not letting your CYA levels get too high", but they gloss over the fact that if you follow the instructions your CYA level will very quickly get too high for 1-2 ppm of FC to be the correct level.
In the Chlorine / CYA Chart
I do not see a relationship between FC and AC... Should it be ? Thanks.
I do not see a relationship between FC and AC... Should it be ? Thanks.
Unless active chlorine refers to HOCl which is NOT the same as free chlorine.
See this table which shows the active chlorine level as a function of CYA and FC levels. This makes it obvious that at the CYA/FC combinations we recommend the active chlorine (and thus harshness of the water) is MUCH less than you would have in a pool with 0 CYA and a FC of 1-2ppm ... like by a factor 10+:
https://www.troublefreepool.com/~richardfalk/pool/HOCl.htm
See this table which shows the active chlorine level as a function of CYA and FC levels. This makes it obvious that at the CYA/FC combinations we recommend the active chlorine (and thus harshness of the water) is MUCH less than you would have in a pool with 0 CYA and a FC of 1-2ppm ... like by a factor 10+:
https://www.troublefreepool.com/~richardfalk/pool/HOCl.htm
Guessing alexdash meant CYA ?
EDIT -- nope, maybe Active Chlorine was the right answer. I had been looking for the table jblizzle linked for a while -- saw it once but didn't remember what it was called, which meant I could never find it again.
Thanks jblizzle !!
EDIT -- nope, maybe Active Chlorine was the right answer. I had been looking for the table jblizzle linked for a while -- saw it once but didn't remember what it was called, which meant I could never find it again.
Thanks jblizzle !!
Yes, I meant AC= Active chlorine .. vs FC = Free chlorine
- - - Updated - - -
as for testing : right now I use Basic kit (that only has Chlorine yellow 5 drops measurement, plus TA, PH and that 's it)
) , and the strips : that have AC, FC, PG, TA, CYA etc...
- - - Updated - - -
as for testing : right now I use Basic kit (that only has Chlorine yellow 5 drops measurement, plus TA, PH and that 's it)
) , and the strips : that have AC, FC, PG, TA, CYA etc...
I don't think strips have "active chlorine" and "free chlorine" ... I would think maybe Total and Free ... does not really matter, they are garbage.
In any case, you will be much better able to control your pool with one of the Recommended Test Kits.
In any case, you will be much better able to control your pool with one of the Recommended Test Kits.
they have TAC = Total Avail Chl , and FAC = Free Avail Chl.
You are correct Jason. Thank you!
You are correct Jason. Thank you!
Hello Jason, Dave et al.,
here is the latest. My TF-100 pool test kit has arrived on April 4th. But first things first. Before that, on Tuesday April 1st, I hired a pool repairman to fix a white plaster patch on the pool wall where it was wearing out . In order to do so we had to drop the water level about 1 inch below that point. About 1/3 of the pool water it turned out. So, while the patch was drying out, I asked the guy if he had a Taylor test kit in his truck to measure the CYA . He did . And the CYA was 80 in the adjacent Spa as the water level was still high there. So, the next day I re-filled the pool with county water . The foaming has almost but stopped . Only some intense air bibbling from the spa jets as it used to . The PH was off - too low. The FC was 4. I adjusted PH and shocked the pool. Was running for 2 days.
Fast forward to Friday the 4th. The kit came. CYA was 40 on Saturday and today. The FC was 7 . CC was 0 . So, will shock it again tonight to bring the FC to FC shock level of 16 and keep it for a week or so, will see what will happen to the almost gone foaming , then let it drop to FC =3 and keep it at 3-4 ppm.
I turned of off the inline chlorinator for now so it will not put any extra stabilizer in the water.
The PH is 7.6. and TA = 110.
So far, so good.
Thank you all for your help and advice.
P.S. I think I know why the CYA test in the pool store was measured so low. Your test kit says to wait at least 30 seconds before shaking it agaian and then pour in the tube to watch the black dot to disapear but they invariably just measure it right away with no waiting for 30 sec. So, that could be it.
Another thing : I compared results from the test kit to the strips : the CYA on the strip shows shade right below 50 as well . So pretty close.
here is the latest. My TF-100 pool test kit has arrived on April 4th. But first things first. Before that, on Tuesday April 1st, I hired a pool repairman to fix a white plaster patch on the pool wall where it was wearing out . In order to do so we had to drop the water level about 1 inch below that point. About 1/3 of the pool water it turned out. So, while the patch was drying out, I asked the guy if he had a Taylor test kit in his truck to measure the CYA . He did . And the CYA was 80 in the adjacent Spa as the water level was still high there. So, the next day I re-filled the pool with county water . The foaming has almost but stopped . Only some intense air bibbling from the spa jets as it used to . The PH was off - too low. The FC was 4. I adjusted PH and shocked the pool. Was running for 2 days.
Fast forward to Friday the 4th. The kit came. CYA was 40 on Saturday and today. The FC was 7 . CC was 0 . So, will shock it again tonight to bring the FC to FC shock level of 16 and keep it for a week or so, will see what will happen to the almost gone foaming , then let it drop to FC =3 and keep it at 3-4 ppm.
I turned of off the inline chlorinator for now so it will not put any extra stabilizer in the water.
The PH is 7.6. and TA = 110.
So far, so good.
Thank you all for your help and advice.
P.S. I think I know why the CYA test in the pool store was measured so low. Your test kit says to wait at least 30 seconds before shaking it agaian and then pour in the tube to watch the black dot to disapear but they invariably just measure it right away with no waiting for 30 sec. So, that could be it.
Another thing : I compared results from the test kit to the strips : the CYA on the strip shows shade right below 50 as well . So pretty close.
The CYA test is sensitive to light intensity. The test should be done outside with your back to the sun and the tube at your waist level.