Florida 20x40 - Owner build

I had forgotten that you had 3 bubblers and at 40 GPM each that would be 120 GPM + another 30 GPM for the jets which is pretty much at the limit for the Intelliflo 3. So you will most definitely will need to shut down the returns when using these features OR be ok with smaller bubblers/jets. It is kind of up to you.

But if you do go with 2 separate pumps, they should have completely independent suction runs. That should not be shared.
 
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Since the pad will be below I'll need to valve all pipes for servicing.

Would it be OK to just have 2 way valves only on the main and 2 skimmers?
I also could 3 way the skimmers, then 3 way the skimmer and main, then 2 way valve to the pump.
Returns would also have valves.

If the valves were all closed a pressure sensor would indicate trouble so that the automation could shut down the system. Right?
 
As long as you have a valve on every pipe going to/from the pool, you will be fine.

The Intelliflo3 has a built in setting for auto shut down under high pressure so you shouldn't need anything else.
 
I am on well water and have some iron. Iron bacteria as well. The water out of the well is fairly clear. So that means its mostly soluble iron?
PH 7.2​
TDS 204​
Hardness 155​
Alkalinity (as CaCO3) 180​
Calcium 38​
Chloride 20​
Iron 1.4​
Maganese 0.01​
Magnesium 14​
Sodium 16​



I have the following filter systems available for the fill.
whole house GAC filter​
2x whole house water softeners​
80 Gallon contact tank​
Outdoor aeration tank​
Stenner Pump tank​
These are not all tied together but are onsite.​

Can I inject chlorine and then pass it through the GAC filter then on to the pool?

I saw these at Lowe’s

Single-Stage 7-GPM GAC Whole House Water Filtration System https://www.lowes.com/pd/A-O-Smith-...hole-House-Water-Filtration-System/1000559417

I just saw I can get 1 cu coconut carbon in out filter (9x48) for $350. That seems better than Lowes deal.

These might be easy to set up at the pool with a hose. Maybe not. Does not play well (pun) with hardness. I wonder though if it would be effective for the first 50k gallons.
 
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We ending up using two of the whole house filters below with 5 micon sediment filters connected to two hoses when we filled our pool. It was recommended that we use metal out when we started filling. Once the over got above the return jets we started up the pumps to start the circulation. Please note that our PB was MIA so we did the startup ourself.

Dependent on the finish you might want to hold off on adding chlorine.

 
What's the best way form this pool bench. The pool has a bench on one side (40'). If the walls are dug straight it will take a bunch of concrete to do the bench. I also have engineering detail that shows the wall coming up the bench then over to the edge. The soil is sandy so it's not too sculptable. As much as I don't like the idea of going straight and filling with concrete it seems the safest method. How would you handle it?

Also the engineer insists on 10" bond beam with 8" wall. Shotcrete sub wants to go all 8" because forming the 2 dimensions would be problematic. My thought is to just make the wall 10" throughout. Seems to be a trivial amount of extra concrete. Any concerns?

bench detail.png
 
Building the bench out of Shotcrete is the preferred method.
Rebar will be required or the Shotcrete will have nothing to hold on to especially in the deep end.
Always fallow the engineers requirements, Shotcrete crews don’t like change but they also are required to fallow the engineers requirements.
 

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After much time the build is in full swing. Started last Thursday with scraping and the small hole seen below. Already had rain but the visqeen is doing its job. We hit ground water a few inches from the required depth. So as long as it doesn't rain too much the single sump pump is doing fine.

Seems that a lot of builders around here put the skimmer in after the shell is shot. They then place the skimmer and use ready mix to set it. So far I've reluctanly agreed to it and asked them to have rebar placed in the shell that the skimmer could be anchored to.

My engineered plans call for #4 rebar 12" OC 8" thick with the deep end having a double mat. Only problem is double mat needs about 10" to be properly encased and spaced. Not catching this till the steel was placed means that I either dig out the extra depth or loose the the depth of the pool. Since it's not classified as a diving pool I think I am going to go with a slightly shallower pool.

I am wondering if the back of the pool wall where the benches are should have steel go all the way down the wall in addition to the bench framing.

One more day of steel and plumbing placement. Hopefully the weather holds and then we're shooting by Wednesday.
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Inspection tomorrow. I’m going to double check everything before the shoot Wednesday.

Should I limit the amount of bricks/dobies? I am wondering if the bricks allow corrosion around the rebar.

Otherwise I have time before the shoot to add some more.
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You should have slab bolsters, or at least "chairs"under the rebar.
 
You should have slab bolsters, or at least "chairs"under the rebar.
We have bricks under the rebar. The deep end also has double mat of rebar and have put some bricks between them as well.

My question is how much is too many? I'd love to put enough so that the crew could walk all over the steel and not worry about it collapsing. at the same time bricks are not the same as gunite.
 
Thanks for the support @AQUA~HOLICS . Got the shell done. Two Days. I was there for the whole thing. It rained late the first day and had to call it. The fresh Gunite took a beating. I wish that I had thought to throw a tarp over it. The second day was a lot of cleanup. Had to really push them to remove any rebound and semi-mixed aggregate/cement. There was a bunch in the deep end that had accumulated.

65 Yards. It was estimated at 80 yards. Initially, I wondered where the rest of my pool was, but ultimately, I felt satisfied with the cost savings.

On day two after completion, the rain started up again and the shelf was still a little wet so I threw the tarp over the pool. I was amazed at how warm and humid it was under it. It may be a good way to keep the shell wet while curing.

If you're building a pool with loose soil and it will be raining, I recommend putting the visqeen down inside the excavation. It was set down back about 10' from the hole and the run down behind the board.

Thanks to Luis for the drone shots!

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