Another question: I am draining now and trying to determine how low to go. Once I get two inches below return, I begin to hit the pool lights. Do I want to stay above that level, and if so, by how much? Here is a photo.
That’s how I did it. I also removed the filter because the filter and connecting pipes were easy to drain by themselves. Then I blew both directions at the feed/return pipes. The feed side was a 2 part process, first the main drains and then air locked the valve which then blew the skimmers. I used a garden hose duct taped to the shop vac pipe to suck out the residual water from the skimmer pipes at the pool.Where do I blow air into? Do I remove pump and blow into each end?
If you got all the water out of the pipe, or even enough water out to leave the rest below the frost line, the antifreeze isn’t even needed. It’s just extra extra insurance. It super easy to add 1/2 gal at each skimmer.However, I did not add any antifreeze (I have 4 gallons waiting to be added). How important is it to do this?
It will not hurt one bit. It might even help.I have seven or so gizmos leftover, which I suppose I could put into he skimmer boxes to fill volume. Any reason to do that?
You should have gotten all the horizontal pipe water. With multiple openings it may struggle to force the water out the vertical pipes that go to the returns. Whatever you missed should be well below the frost line, and you may not have missed any because the cyclone is a beast. Add a gallon of antifreeze for the extra-extra insurance.But I did not cap the shallow end returns while blowing to get all the air to the deep/far end? Do I have to worry? it seemed pretty dry
All good here.3) Main drain -
4 / 5 /6
Should be fine once the 2 drain plugs (each, like you said ) are removed.7) Raypak heaters
Plug it up8) DE filter - I blew air through the filter initially as my multiport handle was stuck (I backwashed the DE before draining pool). Then I drained the filter by removing the plug as the bottom. Do I leave this plug open or sealed?
yes it may. It’s a wet job and it’s windy as snot and 31 degrees out. BRRRRAfter draining filter I managed to get the multiport to recirculate. I also did not clean the DE filter as I had intended. Can this wait until spring?
leave them in place. Those of us that bring them inside () only do so for their sleeping abilities. Any equipment can handle the elements just fine. If yours is going to be in the unheated house as the alternative, There isn’t much point to bringing It inside.9) Chlorine generators for pool
Ice only expands about 10% and it does so upwards. A tank or open container is the perfect vessel to freeze with little concern. If you can get something in there to help, (empty milk jugs weighted down, pool noodles, etc) great. If not you should be fine as long as it’s not filled to the brim with rain water.10) Autofills - I drained, removed the fluid masters. and blew out the lines, but I dont see a way to plug the compartments/tanks. I plugged the equalizer opening at the pool and spa, but the tanks can collect rain water and then freeze. How do I prevent that
You can DIY pipe caps with ziplock baggies and tape, you can get rubber winterizing plugs (the wingnut ones) at the hardware store for all the ends, or you can put the pumps back. All 3 will do fine by you.11) Open pipes - I have many open pipes at the equipment pad where my 4 pumps were connected. I brought all the pumps inside. I can either shrink wrap the holes next week, or pup the pumps back. Like with the chlorinators, I am not sure why it helps to bring the pumps off lien and into a cold room, versus leaving at the equipment pad.