First time closing - please review my plan! Concerned about line to bottom drain

dwizum

0
Jul 6, 2018
10
Syracuse, NY
Hi all,

Will soon be closing the pool at the house I recently bought for the first time, I live in the northeast, it freezes hard here, hence I want to make sure I'm doing this right. I've been doing a lot of reading and googling but I can't find a comprehensive guide that covers all aspects for my exact situation, so I've been stitching pieces together from here and there, and I'd like people to comment to make sure I've got a good cohesive plan.

Pool info:
Approx. 24,000 gallons
Inground, vinyl lined
Two returns in pool
One skimmer and one bottom drain in the deep end
Skimmer and bottom drain have a 3-way valve right before the pump to select which is open
Solar heater panels on roof of house
Sand filter
Safety cover is mesh, with the pop up anchors in concrete deck

So, here's my plan:

1) Shock the pool one last time, get it totally clean and leaf-free
2) Drain sand filter, disconnect pump, store pump inside for winter
3) Pull solar panels off roof, store inside for winter
4) Use shop vac or leaf blower to get water out of return lines. Cap lines while air is moving to keep them free of water. Leave pump end of return lines open but protected by a loose cap
5) Set suction side valve to skimmer only, use shop vac to blow water out of skimmer line. Fit Gizzmo plug into skimmer. First question: Do I try to fill the skimmer line with antifreeze?
6) Not really sure what to do with bottom drain. Blow it free, then slam the valve shut and hope it stays full of air? Try to pour antifreeze in, even though it's already full of water? Do some magic secret process I haven't yet discovered in google? Leave it full of water and hope the ice expands up and downwards enough not to crack it?
7) Leave water level in pool as-is (is that correct? Some google results talk about lowering water level but it's not clear if that's only for certain cover types)
8) Raise pop up anchors, fit pool cover
9) Call physical therapist, because my back probably hurts by now

Any thoughts? The bottom drain has me nervous. I can't think of a reliable way to protect the line to it. There are two complicating factors. One, the valve and pump sit below water level, so just leaving the valve open isn't exactly feasible since the pool would drain down through it. Two, the valve has a slow leak, such that even if you shut it, you get some water trickling out. It's basically impossible to fix without partly draining the pool, since it's below water level. The prior owner had fitted a temporary length of pipe, sticking straight up in the air, to extend the suction line (that would have connected to the pump) above the pool water level, and then he had apparently filled this with antifreeze, because that's how I found the pool when I opened it after buying the house. I just can't imagine that's reliable, since the antifreeze would potentially just mix with the pool water through the open bottom drain.
 
2) Drain sand filter, disconnect pump, store pump inside for winter

Your sand filter should be drained when the pool is closed, simultaneously when you remove the sight glass, pressure gauge, pump, and heater plugs. Make sure you winterize the sand filter and MPV properly.

EDIT: I see that you are brining your pump in for the winter, so now I understand why you are using this type of sequence. Assuming that you have unions after the filter and before and after the pump which provides access to clearing the lines.

First question: Do I try to fill the skimmer line with antifreeze?

Considering you have serious deep freezes, I would say "YES". Where I am, I would say "NO".

6) Not really sure what to do with bottom drain. Blow it free, then slam the valve shut and hope it stays full of air? Try to pour antifreeze in, even though it's already full of water? Do some magic secret process I haven't yet discovered in google? Leave it full of water and hope the ice expands up and downwards enough not to crack it?

Your shop vac may not have enough pressure/volume to clear the main drain. The valve is closed as the main drain is bubbling. Very seldom does a shut off valve leak, but they do go bad. You can try an air compressor with an NPT fitting at the pump basket, or purchase blow thru plugs as in my closing thread.

The issue with these type of plugs is that the shipping is $5.95 under $50 and you will not find them locally. If you need extra's, purchase them as the prices are extremely reasonable. Use the guide to make sure the plugs will fit.

My friend measured and we still had it wrong. The #8 goes to the suction and # 10 goes to the return side of 1.5" plumbing (Hayward Pump). The # 10 and # 11 are used for 2" plumbing.

You can use this type of plug to clear the main drain (make sure you isolate the skimmers with the shut off valve) so air will only travel to the main drain, clear the lines to lift the water above the frost line (when it bubbles for a while), quickly close the valve and shut off the compressor. Here you will have a double lock as the plug serves and keep air in. Antifreeze is not used in main drain lines. Unless someone can explain how it will stay in the line with the other end open.


Concept of closing an IG Swimming Pool

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

- - - Updated - - -

Can you upload pictures of the filter and pump set up? Thanks!
 
7) Leave water level in pool as-is (is that correct? Some google results talk about lowering water level but it's not clear if that's only for certain cover types)

If you have a safety mesh cover, I would recommend lowering the water at least 1" below the skimmers as this will help out in closing the skimmers and not becoming soaked with water gushing out.
 
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