Updated- Pool builder shocked my pool

[Hudsongirl]

I have a brand new SW pool- unfortunately the SWG initially installed was a dud and pool builder will not be able to install a new one until Monday. In the meantime he seems to have shocked it last week when it was fileld, and stuck a couple of chlorine pucks in the baskets that are there now but it's not going to bring the pool to the correct levels obviously.

Here are my current Taylor kit results:

FC- .5
CC- .5
TA- 90
Calcium- 200ppm
CYA- 0
PH- looked to be 7.6 on color test

My plan is
remove pucks from filter baskets
add HDX bleach - TFP app says 1qt, 3cups, 3oz
add CYA with stocking in filter baskets- app says 11 pounds to target level of 70



I'm most worried about the CYA- I see the preferred method is a sock in the basket or in front of the returns, but it seems like once this level is changed it's a no going back sort of thing so I want to make sure I'm on the right track

The pool will be heated starting Monday and I'm unclear on how much temperature will affect what I'm doing and if the addition of the CYA and bleach will throw the TA and PH out of whack and I'll need to plan for that if it's a wait and retest later situation?

After adding CYA how long do I wait to retest levels? How long do I need to wait before using the pool robot after adding chemicals?

 

[Newdude]

I see the preferred method is a sock in the basket or in front of the returns,

Carrot on a stick like in front of a return. It may take a day or even two to get mushy so you can squeeze it out. If left in the skimmer and the pump shuts off, acid soaking in there is no bueno.

Dose FC counting the 30 CYA while it soaks.



After the daily loss, you want to remain free and clear above min. Not even a sniff near minimum FC. You're safe all the way to SLAM level.

After adding CYA how long do I wait to retest levels?

It'll probably take a day once it's squished out to register.

unclear on how much temperature will affect what I'm doing and if the addition of the CYA and bleach will throw the TA and PH out of whack and I'll need to plan for that if it's a wait and retest later situation?

Maintain an appropriate FC level. Use poolmath to keep the Ph in the 7s and the rest can wait.

 

[bobloblaw42]

You'll effectively be a LC pool until Monday so you might want to keep your CYA around 40 for the weekend. NY in May shouldn't be intense sunlight all day and you'll end up needing to put a lot of bleach in should you reach 70 CYA. FC target for LC is different than SWG so here's that chart just in case.



Once SWG is verified as running and producing chlorine (FC rise without addition of additional bleach), then you can move onto SWG CYA and corresponding FC levels.

 

[Hudsongirl]

Dose FC counting the 30 CYA while it soaks.

I appreciate the reply! I'll do that with the CYA addition, thanks, but can you explain that this part above means? Based on that chart I think my target minimum is 70 for a SW pool, right?

 

[Newdude]

Based on that chart I think my target minimum is 70 for a SW pool, right?

Baby steps. Start at 30. Pool volumes are off and we need to also pause for a quick algae check before going to 70. Will update you as we go with further instructions.

For now, CYA to 30 and get FC in there.

 

[Hudsongirl]

You'll effectively be a LC pool until Monday so you might want to keep your CYA around 40 for the weekend. NY in May shouldn't be intense sunlight all day and you'll end up needing to put a lot of bleach in should you reach 70 CYA. FC target for LC is different than SWG so here's that chart just in case.

View attachment 571707

Once SWG is verified as running and producing chlorine (FC rise without addition of additional bleach), then you can move onto SWG CYA and corresponding FC levels.

Thanks, I think this makes sense, so even though the salt is in the water it's okay to target the CYA level for a LC pool for now until the SWG is up and running

 

[Hudsongirl]

Baby steps. Start at 30. Pool volumes are off and we need to also pause for a quick algae check before going to 70. Will update you as we go with further instructions.

For now, CYA to 30 and get FC in there.

Thanks, will do!

 

[Newdude]

think this makes sense, so even though the salt is in the water it's okay to target the CYA level for a LC pool for now until the SWG is up and running

Technically you're a LC pool until the SWG is running. But it's semantics at this point. The key is to stay free and clear above min FC for the 30 CYA you're about to add. Follow either chart if your FC is a 6+ to allow some daily loss to the sun and still be in the green.

 

[Mdragger88]

You can always add more cya later - & you will, AFTER you confirm you’re algae free since your fc has fallen so low.
Having to rid yourself of algae at a higher cya level (slam process) means using alot of liquid chlorine.
Its also much easier to avoid overshooting your final target by adding cya in stages as well.

For now stick with adding 30/40 ppm cya as suggested & chlorinate according to the liquid chlorine chart.
Retest cya in 24 hours to see where your addition landed you.

The recommendations for cya on the swcg chart are higher not because of the salt in the water but because the swcg makes fc slowly over time so it needs a little more protection from the sun as it does so.

 

[Hudsongirl]

You can always add more cya later - & you will, AFTER you confirm you’re algae free since your fc has fallen so low.
Having to rid yourself of algae at a higher cya level (slam process) means using alot of liquid chlorine.
Its also much easier to avoid overshooting your final target by adding cya in stages as well.

For now stick with adding 30/40 ppm cya as suggested & chlorinate according to the liquid chlorine chart.
Retest cya in 24 hours to see where your addition landed you.

The recommendations for cya on the swcg chart are higher not because of the salt in the water but because the swcg makes fc slowly over time so it needs a little more protection from the sun as it does so.

Thanks, that's helpful to know it's not because of the actual salt in the water. I added enough for now to Target 30ppm, it's about 80% dissolved, and added the bleach. I didn't want to wait until Monday when the SWG gets turned on and by the time it's time to swim the pool needs days to get back to safe levels so I appreciate all the advice. I've been reading TFP advice for a few weeks trying to learn and have stocked up on all the recommended additives, but it's daunting going at it for the first time in practice!

 

[Newdude]

but it's daunting going at it for the first time in practice!

There is no learning like doing. I came in here with no rush to get a grip on things and by the time I was sold, it was almost time to close so I had even less urgency to learn the chemistry part of things. I spent our looooooong off season reading and reading and in one eye and out the other. Come spring, it clicked HARD and fast with test bottles in my hand actually doing it all.

Plus. We got you in the meantime. Ask away at anytime, big or small. If you foul something up because you were unsure, we could have multiple things to fix. And rest assured, we'll help there too. But it's better for all parties to only have one fish to fry.

 

[Hudsongirl]

Updating with my current test results after adding the CYA and chlorine over the last 2 days-

FC- 7.0
CC- .5
PH-7.2
TA-90
CYA-35

There is probable algae accumulation at the bottom of the pool but we haven't run the robot in 2 days (there is also a dust bowl around the pool from construction and lack of grass so I'm not 100% sure it's algae but guessing it's not just dirt given how low FC was allowed to get by builder)

Do you guys think I'm okay for now until the SWG is up and running or should I be worrying about the possible algae?

 

[Hudsongirl]

Oh also wondering if I should be concerned PH is so low- I assume the acid addition is the reason and this will raise naturally without me doing much right now?

 

[Newdude]

Always round up the CYA to the next 10, so call yours 40.

Any 7 PH is a-ok. There is no 'more ok' than ok. If anyone such as a pool store employee is telling you that a 7.X is better than a 7.Y, that's your cue to ignore anything they say. Smile because we don't want to be rude, and excuse yourself from the convo.

Yes it will likely rise by itself.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove there is/isn't algae. If you lose FC overnight with no UV, then algae is brewing. Or if you don't, it's construction dirt. So so much construction dirt.

 

[Hudsongirl]

Always round up the CYA to the next 10, so call yours 40.

Any 7 PH is a-ok. There is no 'more ok' than ok. If anyone such as a pool store employee is telling you that a 7.X is better than a 7.Y, that's your cue to ignore anything they say. Smile because we don't want to be rude, and excuse yourself from the convo.

Yes it will likely rise by itself.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove there is/isn't algae. If you lose FC overnight with no UV, then algae is brewing. Or if you don't, it's construction dirt. So so much construction dirt.

Awesome, this is helpful.

I was basing the PH target off the TFP app ideal range so good to know it's not too serious

So for this Algae test- it's only 60 degrees out and overcast and I just measured FC here at 7pm, am I good to call that the night measure and just measure again in the AM before the sun is out to play?

 

[Newdude]

I was basing the PH target off the TFP app ideal range so good to know it's not too serious

Yes. It's just a calculator. It means well, but no.

So for this Algae test- it's only 60 degrees out and overcast and I just measured FC here at 7pm, am I good to call that the night measure and just measure again in the AM before the sun is out to play?

I'd get another test once the sun is down. If you cut corners on the OCLT, you fail, so it's in your best interest to do it proper. Read the link above for the details.

But yeah. Have the pool well mixed for both tests (in the dark or as close to it as possible) and that'll be your answer. If you leave the pump on overnight it'll save you 30 mins of sleep because it'll be already mixed in the AM

 

[Hudsongirl]

Performed the overnight algae test last night. Unfortunately it has been raining and the timer (imprecise dial type) didn't turn the pump on when it was supposed to, so I tested at 6:30 am and then again at 9 after the pump had run a few hours. (It's still so overcast here there's no sun in sight) however the FC level seems to have remained steady for all 3 test regardless of these hiccups so I'm thinking we're in the clear algae wise and that the silt in the pool is dirt from the excavated ground around it.

I will likely be back tomorrow evening with more questions once the SWG and heaters are up and running. Appreciating all the help immensely!

 

[Hudsongirl]

Just updating that there is no update- my pool builder has still not shown up with the new SWG, among a variety of other issues we're having with them.

I've been testing every day for PH and FC and PH is slowly rising, up to 7.5 but FC is falling very slowly, and still seems to be at about 6 ppm so I haven't added any LC since Saturday. I'm guessing the relatively low temps here are helping to keep it from burning off very fast

 

[Newdude]

I'm guessing the relatively low temps here are helping to keep it from burning off very fast

Awesome. Dose it back to high target when it drops a little more and then watch it slowly drop again, while remaining free and clear away from min.

In the peak season, it'll swing up to 4ppm a day, and if life pulls you away one evening, can be problematic. That's where I like a healthy buffer for insurance. With little loss going on right now, +4 ppm over min is a several day dose.

It'll ramp up soon though, so no getting complacent or it will spike that next day, because Murphys.

 

[Hudsongirl]

Awesome. Dose it back to high target when it drops a little more and then watch it slowly drop again, while remaining free and clear away from min.

In the peak season, it'll swing up to 4ppm a day, and if life pulls you away one evening, can be problematic. That's where I like a healthy buffer for insurance. With little loss going on right now, +4 ppm over min is a several day dose.

It'll ramp up soon though, so no getting complacent or it will spike that next day, because Murphys.

I'm hoping with the SWG up and running we won't have huge swings to content with, but NY is famous for it's temperamental weather so who knows.

While I have you, I know the TFP meothod uses much higher FC ranges than are normally recommended. If I'm understanding correctly I'm going to get the pool to where I want it and then try to find a setting for the SWG that maintains that level rather than relying on it to raise the level. If I am experiencing lots of rain, super hot weather, or want to up the FC for a party is it better to do that with LC rather than putting strain on the SWG by turning it up?