Updated- New owner ongoing questions

[Hudsongirl]

Ok so it'll make 1 FC in about 3.5 hours for you. Math that however you like for the same result.

100% for 3.5 hours = 1 FC
50% for 7 hours = 1 FC
25% for 14 hours = 1 FC.

Etc etc.

Once the FC drops, you'll want to start with 2 FC per day (as a local to you guess), and fine tune as needed.

Thanks this is helpful.

I've got 3 pounds of CYA in a sock now, which brings me to a target CYA of 70, which without any more chlorine going in should make it safe to swim tomorrow if I"m understanding correctly that anything under SLAM level is safe.

I'll hold off on messing with the PH until things have stabilized, thought it was 7.8 last I checked before this and should be brought down some by the CYA addition.

 

[newdude]

I've got 3 pounds of CYA in a sock now, which brings me to a target CYA of 70,

And a SLAM target of 28 FC. Either you've already added a skootch of CYA to make the 22 FC safe, or you've lost 2 ppm so that 50 CYA / 20 FC is safe.

In short, you're golden either way.

I"m understanding correctly that anything under SLAM level is safe.

Yup. Above min, and below slam. (At SLAM too, but we're splitting hairs).

I'll hold off on messing with the PH until things have stabilized,

You have all the time in the world. Have a beverage. It's still early so maybe coffee. Happy Saturday.

 

[Mdragger88]

There are 2 options of cells for that unit.
It would be indicated on the side of your cell which one you have

 

[Hudsongirl]

View attachment 574061View attachment 574062There are 2 options of cells for that unit.
It would be indicated on the side of your cell which one you have
View attachment 574063View attachment 574064

This is my cell, it's actually the PPC 3 which their website seems to indicate is compatible with all their digital models and can do up to 50k gallons

 

[newdude]

Ok GREAT. 10 ppm per 24 hours or 1 ppm every 2.4 hours. Maths accordingly.

 

[Hudsongirl]

Ok GREAT. 10 ppm per 24 hours or 1 ppm every 2.4 hours. Maths accordingly.

Okay so that's max output set to 100%, right? If I'm understanding correctly most of the time I'm using it to just maintain the FC so probably between 2-4 ppm/day on average, so probably running it at 25-30% capacity if it's running 24/7 or 50% if I'm running it 12 hours.

Yet another question: My pool pump is on a timer and since we haven't had to worry about running the SWG or heater we've been running it 12-16 hours a day. With the SWG running should I plan on running the pump 24/7 so that I'm making chlorine around the clock or is turning it off okay overnight since when the sun isn't out there's nothing to burn off the chlorine?

If it matters it's a Pentair superflow 1.1HP pump, which I believe is single speed

 

[newdude]

Okay so that's max output set to 100%, right? If I'm understanding correctly most of the time I'm using it to just maintain the FC so probably between 2-4 ppm/day on average, so probably running it at 25-30% capacity if it's running 24/7 or 50% if I'm running it 12 hours.

BINGO !!! The season will mostly go little loss, lots of loss, little loss.

Open
Adjust up
Adjust up
Adjust up
Adjust down
Adjust down
Close.

(Give or take)

If it matters it's a Pentair superflow 1.1HP pump, which I believe is single speed

Single speeds are costly to run so you won't want it running anymore than it needs to produce your FC and/or filter.

in the spring and fall you need more filtering and less SWG.

In the mid season you need less filtering and more SWG.

It's probably a constant with the runtime you need as when one decreases the other takes its place.

And the electric bill will notice the pool is open so run it only what you need. If you ever upgrade to a VS pump, then 24/7 convienence is back on the table.

 

[Hudsongirl]

BINGO !!! The season will mostly go little loss, lots of loss, little loss.

Open
Adjust up
Adjust up
Adjust up
Adjust down
Adjust down
Close.

(Give or take)

Single speeds are costly to run so you won't want it running anymore than it needs to produce your FC and/or filter.

in the spring and fall you need more filtering and less SWG.

In the mid season you need less filtering and more SWG.

It's probably a constant with the runtime you need as when one decreases the other takes its place.

And the electric bill will notice the pool is open so run it only what you need. If you ever upgrade to a VS pump, then 24/7 convienence is back on the table.

I really appreciate you taking the time to write these responses out, I imagine it's a lot of walking newbies through the same stuff around here, but we're very grateful.

Definitely the first time the pump is ready for replacement we'll move to a variable speed. We are already anticipating significant electric costs with the pump, SWG, and heat pump combo so I'm not too worried, but I think we'll start off with running 12 hours/day and see how things pan out. I hear the heat pump is more effective in higher temps, and that's when the SWG will need to replace the most chlorine anyway so our plan for now is to run it all during peak daylight hours and shut down overnight with the solar cover on to slow evap and hold in the heat/chlorine as much as possible.

 

[newdude]

I imagine it's a lot of walking newbies through the same stuff around here, but we're very grateful.

So I can speak for most of us. I never forgot how bad it sucked being clueless. I was ignorantly mislead or flat out lied to for 6.5 years at the pool store, and got even worse advice from friends. I'm on a personal mission to make it suck less for others. Anyone else who struggled will agree with me. The lucky ones who found us during or shortly after their build, see the horror stories on the daily, and pay their luck forward that they found us quickly.

Either way, we go you, and anyone else who is willing to try.

but I think we'll start off with running 12 hours/day and see how things pan out. I hear the heat pump is more effective in higher temps, and that's when the SWG will need to replace the most chlorine anyway so our plan for now is to run it all during peak daylight hours and shut down overnight with the solar cover on to slow evap and hold in the heat/chlorine as much as possible.

That's about a solid as a start plan as one could come up with. Road test and adjust as necessary. We'll help.

 

[Mdragger88]

Your cell puts out 1.56 lbs. per day
Hit the gear icon in. Poolmath & add that info then hit the

You can then easily use effects of adding in the hamburger menu to see the estimated fc output based on your % & run time.

You can also log your current settings by hitting the + & selecting swg from the chemicals list so it shows up like this


Add your cell type to your signature.

 

[Hudsongirl]

Updating that we were able to swim on Sunday which was lovely. FC seems to have fallen steeply after the CYA addition, not sure why but it fell to 12 from 22 in 24 hours and today was at 11 FC.

Construction started on the patio surrounding the pool today so we're expecting a lot of dust/debris in coming days. When I did the overnight test last week I didn't see a drop in FC overnight, but we're still getting stuff that settles on the bottom of the pool each night in the corners and along the liner seams and when I brush it I can see it dispersing- is it possible this is algae and the overnight test didn't show it because we have cold temperatures (NY so low-mid 50s at nights)? Whatever it is, it does seem to disappear for about 12 hours after the robot runs but is usually back again the next day.

We won't be able to swim again until Sunday because of the construction so would it be a good idea to SLAM preemptively or am I being paranoid? I know the FC dropped to about 1 ppm that first week they filled the pool and didn't treat it

 

[Mdragger88]

Do another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to rule out the possibility
Also try to collect some if possible-
gritty = dirt
Slimy = algae.
Perhaps your unintentional slam killed something off??
As for the fc loss. The higher the fc, the faster it gets burned off + swimmers/bather load + increasing uv = more consumption.
so you can’t just totally rely on that one time day time loss as a metric.

 

[newdude]

Between the yard dirt and pollen, the water won't be polished for a while, and floor debris is expected.

A passed OCLT buys you several more days of not worrying about it, or a week if you can attest the FC has remained free and clear above min the whole time since the last one.

 

[Hudsongirl]

Between the yard dirt and pollen, the water won't be polished for a while, and floor debris is expected.

A passed OCLT buys you several more days of not worrying about it, or a week if you can attest the FC has remained free and clear above min the whole time since the last one.

FC has definitely been above min for since the last, at least at 6ppm+ since then. Other than those pockets of stuff there is very little visible dirt in the pool and the robot does pick up what I would describe as silt when it runs. I can't reach it to touch it with my hands because I can't get in the water while they're doing construction.

Pollen- yeah my yard is covered in a coating of pollen and the pool is surrounded by trees. It's yellowish brown outside the pool, but I guess that could be contributing.

I think for now I'll leave it and then do another OCLT over the long weekend when I have better access to the equipment and pool and the most dusty work has been wrapped up. That'll put my paranoid mind at ease. I've gotten CYA up to 60 (didn't want to overshoot) but I'm gonna leave it there until this work is done and I'm positive there isn't an algae issue in case I do end up needing to SLAM.

thanks again to you both

 

[Hudsongirl]

FC tested 6.5 today so I turned back on the SWG at 50% with a 16ish hour run time and I'll adjust from there. Construction is ongoing so I don't want FC falling below 6ppm because of the amount of debris in the pool.

I've upgraded the filter on my Nautilus CC plus robot to a fine mesh that's supposedly better at catching dust particles and plan to run it twice in a row each night during construction since there is a visible layer of dust settling now along with the regular pollen and debris. I'd prefer for the robot to catch as much as possible and keep it out of my new cartridge filter.

 

[newdude]

I don't want FC falling below 6ppm because of the amount of debris in the pool.

Construction debris shouldn't affect FC.

But I was crystal clear of my love of being nowhere near min FC, so don't let that stop you.

I'd prefer for the robot to catch as much as possible and keep it out of my new cartridge filter.

The less that goes in there, the longer it will go before its time to clean it. It'll probably be a good idea to clean it after the pollen stops.

Which filter is it ?

 

[Hudsongirl]

Construction debris shouldn't affect FC.

But I was crystal clear of my love of being nowhere near min FC, so don't let that stop you.




The less that goes in there, the longer it will go before its time to clean it. It'll probably be a good idea to clean it after the pollen stops.

Which filter is it ?

Good to know, I figured kicking up soil with the excavator and stuff would bring in some bacteria

Edited because you're asking which cartridge filter, whoops

 

[Hudsongirl]

It says Pentair "Clean and Clear" cartridge filter on it

 

[newdude]

Good to know, I figured kicking up soil with the excavator and stuff would bring in some bacteria

There are people who are safe, and those who are sorry. I know which side of the line I ride.

It says Pentair "Clean and Clear" cartridge filter on it

Is there a model # anywhere?

 

[Hudsongirl]

There are people who are safe, and those who are sorry. I know which side of the line I ride.



Is there a model # anywhere?

It looks from this sticker to be a CC200