first test with Taylor 2006C

[dmill1]

New pool owner.
I'm not sure which problem to tackle first. Here are the results of my first test: Kit was B/O for a month!
PH 8
FC 5.5 ppm
CC .5
TA 70
CH 210
CYA is off the charts. 1st test showed >100 so I completed 2 diluted tests. One was 160, the next was 200. I'm not sure how much water to drain off.
Is a SLAM in order?

FYI, it's still in low 90s in Phoenix!

Thanks in advance.

 

[HermanTX]

Great work with the first test.
Do you visibly see algae or is the pool cloudy? Your CC level is good but that is only 1 indicator of the presence of algae.

Lets just say your CYA is 180 - the average of your 2 dilution tests. Draining 50% of your water will also reduce the CYA content by half - so that only gets you to 90 ppm. Look at reduce 2/3rds to get to 60ppm which is the upper limit for using liquid chlorine. If you can drain more, then that is better.
Your CH is good for being in AZ. Do you have a water softener?

Be sure to read the section on draining - Draining - Further Reading

Also, you don't want to expose your plaster to a lot of direct sun so consider a water exchange. It is not as efficient but helps protect your plaster. Maybe someone from AZ area will chime in to help on draining process for your area.

I would add more LC now to get it up to FC of 10ppm just to hold off any potential of algae while you decide about draining
Also, add muriatic acid (MA) to lower pH to 7.6. Space out the addition of any LC and MA by 30 mins and ensure the pump is running.
do you have the PoolMath app to help you with the amount to add?

Also are you familiar with the FC/CYA Levels? This will help guide you on FC levels to maintain based on your CYA.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I'm curious how you keep your CH level so low. Is your fill line hooked up to a water softener? If not, make sure you multiplied the # of drops by 25 if you used a 10 mL sample.

 

[dmill1]

Thanks for the fast replies. Yes, I have a water softener and don't know if it's connected to fill valve, BUT forgot to multiply by 25 since I used 10ml sample, so that CH number is actually 525. (Leslie's says 300!) Good catch!

There is no visible algae and the water looks pretty good to me. I have pool math app and will get to actually use it now that I have initial results. LC and MA tonight.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

A CH level of 525 sounds right.

No more tablets. You will need to get CYA in range with a water exchange. Consider adding a SWG to ease daily maintenance. You can keep CYA levels higher with a SWG.

Good luck. Good job on the test results!

 

[proavia]

You can probably limp by until the end of October when the temps will cool further and then do a drain to get the CYA down. This will also help in reducing the CH to about 225 with a full drain/refill.

Your FC should be about 7.5% to 10% of your CYA level.

How are you presently chlorinating your pool?
Do you have automation and/or a SWG?

 

[dmill1]

Proavia,
There is no automation and the "pool guy" has been using 3" tabs. I've decided to maintain myself beginning season using 10% bleach now.

After adding according to Poolmath last evening FC = 18 this morning, but PH is still 8. I added MA last eve also. Should I add more MA today?

 

[Newdude]

Should I add more MA today

No. Your FC is great for algae preventing, but 10+ FC renders the PH test invalid. When needed, let the FC drift under 10 to test PH. Dose appropriately then get FC right back up to about 10% of the CYA level.

 

[dmill1]

Newdude thanks for your help!

You can probably limp by until the end of October when the temps will cool further and then do a drain to get the CYA down. This will also help in reducing the CH to about 225 with a full drain/refill.

Your FC should be about 7.5% to 10% of your CYA level.

How are you presently chlorinating your pool?
Do you have automation and/or a SWG?

What are you thoughts regarding a water exchange vs full drain/refill here in AZ given my pool was built in 2002?

 

[Newdude]

Welp. You can water exchange now, or limp along until the UV becomes slightly more hospitable.

If you rented a powerful pump from HomeDeopt/ etc, and timed it right, you could avoid being exposed for long. You could also MacGyver a sprinkler system with some hoses and $10 sprinklers to keep the finish wet while it refilled if the filling part took a while.

Or do it on a weekend and babysit it spraying it down every 30 minutes.

 

[proavia]

Newdude thanks for your help!

What are you thoughts regarding a water exchange vs full drain/refill here in AZ given my pool was built in 2002?

My pool was built in 1999. When needed, I have always done a drain/refill - never a water exchange.
Either will work, the water exchange takes a bit more planning/work and typically uses more water.

As @Newdude said, rent one of the HD pumps (they provide up to two 50' lengths of drain hose with the rental) and keep the pool surface damp - especially when the sun is shining on it. Wetting it down once every 30 minutes or so should work.

You will want to drain at least 3/4 of the pool- if not all of it -and refill. Run multiple hoses for the refill if you can. If doing a drain/refill instead of an exchange, rinse down the sides of the exposed plaster as its draining.

Do NOT increase the CH, even if a little low after refill. Evaporation will increase the CH without the need to add any products to increase CH. Seriously consider plumbi g your water softener to the pool autofill - otherwise, you will be doing a drain/refill every 2-3 years just to keep the CH at reasonable levels.

 

[Newdude]

@proavia how is this for a plan ? Start draining at 2pm with a big pump. Refill in the evening getting 12+ hours with low/no sun, then spraying whatever is left exposed of the walls for the morning ?

I'd happily clear my schedule on a weekemd morning to babysit versus a $10k+ replaster job. Especially when the effort needed is as easy as standing there spraying the pool for a few hours.

 

[proavia]

@proavia how is this for a plan ? Start draining at 2pm with a big pump. Refill in the evening getting 12+ hours with low/no sun, then spraying whatever is left exposed of the walls for the morning ?

I'd happily clear my schedule on a weekemd morning to babysit versus a $10k+ replaster job. Especially when the effort needed is as easy as standing there spraying the pool for a few hours.

It will depend on the pool volume and how much of the pool is being drained.

Right now, the temps in PHX peak at about 3pm. For the next 10 days, the forecast is for temps to be 85-90. Personlly, I'd wait a few weeks to drain/refill. Toward the end of October, temp should be closer to 80 for the high.

As for the OP's pool, if it were mine, I'd adjust the pH to 7.2 and then increase the FC to an appropriate level based on the CYA - and plan on replacing the water in last October or early November.