First test on my new pool with my new K 2006... results

[Jaredsdad]

CYA well over 100. The black dot was gone long before it got up to the 100 mark
TA 125
PH 7.0
Calcium 80
FC 27.5 (I did it twice to make sure this was right)
CC 0

My plan is to add 74 oz of borax, 96 ounces of calcium chloride (where can I get this?)
for the CYA I guess I will drain a boat load of water out???? I will do that before I go adding chemicals.

What say you experts?

 

[Richard320]

Repeat CYA test using dilution method, See #8 Pool School - CYA

Then drain and replace enough water to bring CYA down to something reasonable in the 30-50 range. Allow the water to circulate for an hour or so after filling. Brush a little to help mix things. Then repeat the tests and go from there. There is no good reason to treat water minutes before dumping it, and all your readings will change with new water added.

 

[Jaredsdad]

Ok using diluted method I'm at 180

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Pool math says drain 67% of my pool, and that is with a target of 60 cyaThat's 6,000 gallons. I'd rather not do that. Any chemical I could throw at it?

 

[Richard320]

Ok using diluted method I'm at 180

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Pool math says drain 67% of my pool. That's 6,000 gallons. I'd rather not do that. Any chemical I could throw at it?

Check your water rates. It may not be as bad as you imagine. 6,000 gallons of water will cost me about thirty bucks.

There is a product called Bioactive that is supposed to reduce CYA. The results haven't been very impressive. Use the search box if you want to read about it. Leslie's sells it for $59.95. Check your water rates. Fresh water may end up cheaper and you know it will work to reduce CYA.

 

[Jaredsdad]

Good point on the water.... and fresh water immediately lowers it versus waiting for the other stuff to work.

 

[DigitalOcean]

There are no chemicals to reduce CYA. There are products out there that CLAIM to lower CYA, but it is hit or miss for folks. The cost is around $70 for that chemical. Depending on your water cost there, it is normally cheaper to do a partial drain and refill. After you add your water, you NORMALLY can call your utility company and tell them you just put 6,000 gallons of water into your pool and they will not charge you sewage on that portion. I helped a friend out getting his pool ready and replaced 10,000 gallons of water, and his bill was about $90 more than normal.

The good news is that once you get your CYA down to a manageable point and follow TFP methology, you will never have high CYA again.

 

[Jaredsdad]

Points taken. Draining now. Already down 18 inches (small pool).
I have a yellow scaling that has shown up since we opened it. Foberglass was white, nowbvery yellow on steps and bottom. Doesn't brush right up either.
Could this be CYA related?

 

[Richard320]

Points taken. Draining now. Already down 18 inches (small pool).
I have a yellow scaling that has shown up since we opened it. Foberglass was white, nowbvery yellow on steps and bottom. Doesn't brush right up either.
Could this be CYA related?

No. Yellow stains are probably Iron stains. Scale is from high pH and Calcium. Yellow scale is iron embedded in scale. Get things balanced and run things at the low end of pH and TA and it may soften up some Calcium scale. First things first, though. Get the CYA down and deal with any algae and then fine tune the rest.

 

[Jaredsdad]

10-4. Have a crack that I may deal with before refilling... I posted about that in another forum.

 

[Jaredsdad]

Update... drained yesterday. Was right at full this morning. Ran pump all day and came home and tested FC. It was 2.5 (which I was surprised since I pulled 70% of the water). CYA was I THINK 20'ish. The. K2006 tube only goes to 30, plus it was cloudy outside.
How do I do the reverse of what I did with using 1/2 tap water to get my 180 reading?