First Test In New Home

Feb 26, 2017
22
Florida
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
Hello everyone,

I recently moved to a new home with a combined pool/spa, where the spa overflows into the pool. While my previous home had a pool, I admittedly was not the most diligent in its maintenance and primarily relied on test results from my local pool store. However, I promised myself I would be more diligent in caring for this pool. To that end, I recently purchased and received the TF-PRO SALT with SmartStir, and fumbled through my first set of tests today. While the included instructions were easy to follow, I definitely get the impression that there is a bit of a learning curve in reading other members' posts who are just getting started, and from my own initial experience.

Having said that, I'd like to share my first test results with some questions/comments and get any feedback as to how to proceed. Thanks in advance!

Link to results from 1st tests

Log resuts.JPG

  • Chlorine & pH test - Both of the results were darker than the top of the range. Thus for the pH, I listed my result as 8.2. For the chlorine test, I also did the Chlorine Drop Test to get the 7.5 result.
  • Total Alkalinity test - I was a bit surprised by this result as when I had the water tested at the local pool store it reported the TA around 230. Not sure if this is a them or me issue.
  • Calcium Hardness test - This result was in line with the number reported by the local pool store. As a result, they recommended I add a quart of Salinity Stain Control. I passed on the recommendation.
  • CYA test - This is one of the tests that I felt was a bit challenging as I felt that no matter how full the "CYA View Tube" was, I could still faintly make out the black dot. As a result, my value of 40 may be a bit high?
  • Salt Test - My IntelliChlor current reads 3450ppm which seems to track with the value from my test
  • CSI - From what I've been reading on the forum I should be okay with a value between -0.6 and +0.6. Assuming this value is correct given it's based on the accuracy of all my inputs, I'm thinking perhaps I was correct in passing on the Salinity Stain Control.

Other notes
  • Current pump schedule is daily from 9am - 8pm (2100 RPM with the IntelliChlor output set at 65% for the pool and 0% for the spa).
    • There is a high-speed schedule that runs from 1pm - 5pm so the vacuum (Pentair Rebel) can do some cleaning.
  • Pool is enclosed in a screened cage so very little in terms of large debris makes it inside the pool

Thanks!
 
Great work on the first test.
With a pH of 8.2 you will need to add muriatic acid. Do you have PoolMath app to calculate the addition?

With regard to your TA test - do it again. Remember it is a 25ml sample and you multiple the number of drops by 10. Always do a second test if your gut tells you that the result you got doesn't look right.

You can manage your pool quite well with a CH of 500 - no need to add anything. Also, test it again. Remember this test requires a 10ml sample and you multiple the number of drops by 25.

For CYA testing try this
- Rather than looking down the tube at the black dot and pouring your mixed solution. I suggest you squirt enough in your tube to a specific mark - such a 100. Then look in the tube for the black dot. If you see it, then squirt in more mixture to the 90 mark, then look in the tube for the black dot. Continue this for each decade graduation (i.e. 80, 70, etc.)
- On the one you cannot see the dot then the previous mark is your CYA level. So if you saw the black dot at 50 but not at the 40 mark then your CYA is 50.
- This way you are not staring at the black dot constantly and seeing it regardless. I remember my teacher in grade school had us stare at a black dot for 60 secs and then look up and we saw that black dot everywhere we looked - it’s the same effect if you stare down that tube.
- Also, by filling to each decade mark, you ensure that you do not try to interpret between the decade marks as the tube is logarithmic meaning that the graduations are not proportional so picking a number between 2 decade marks is not feasible-


Continue to do daily testing for a week or so as that will give you experience and confidence in your testing.
 
Great work on the first test.
With a pH of 8.2 you will need to add muriatic acid. Do you have PoolMath app to calculate the addition?

With regard to your TA test - do it again. Remember it is a 25ml sample and you multiple the number of drops by 10. Always do a second test if your gut tells you that the result you got doesn't look right.

You can manage your pool quite well with a CH of 500 - no need to add anything. Also, test it again. Remember this test requires a 10ml sample and you multiple the number of drops by 25.

For CYA testing try this
- Rather than looking down the tube at the black dot and pouring your mixed solution. I suggest you squirt enough in your tube to a specific mark - such a 100. Then look in the tube for the black dot. If you see it, then squirt in more mixture to the 90 mark, then look in the tube for the black dot. Continue this for each decade graduation (i.e. 80, 70, etc.)
- On the one you cannot see the dot then the previous mark is your CYA level. So if you saw the black dot at 50 but not at the 40 mark then your CYA is 50.
- This way you are not staring at the black dot constantly and seeing it regardless. I remember my teacher in grade school had us stare at a black dot for 60 secs and then look up and we saw that black dot everywhere we looked - it’s the same effect if you stare down that tube.
- Also, by filling to each decade mark, you ensure that you do not try to interpret between the decade marks as the tube is logarithmic meaning that the graduations are not proportional so picking a number between 2 decade marks is not feasible-


Continue to do daily testing for a week or so as that will give you experience and confidence in your testing.


Thanks for the tips and feedback!

In terms of the pH, yes, I plugged everything into the Pool Math app, which told me to add about 10oz of muriatic acid (20 baum), which I have done. I'll also redo the TA and CH tests and double-check my steps. Thanks for the tip regarding the CYA test, that makes complete sense!
 
Day 2 test results

  • FC: 9.5
  • CC: 0.5
  • pH: 8.2
  • TA: 40
  • CH: 400
  • CYA: 30
  • Salt: 3600
  • CSI: 0.04
Showing some swings from my previous day's test, which I suspect is more a user error than an actual change in chemistry. A couple of questions...

  • FC is quite a bit higher than the target of 6. Should I do anything here such as dial back the SWG output and/or runtime (currently set to 65% for 11 hrs)
  • TA is also a bit lower than ideal. I did this test twice and both times came up with the same results. Poolmath app recommends 92oz of baking soda. However, I'm thinking of holding off on that for the moment as I don't have any on hand AND I'm genuinely surprised as the result from the local pool store was in the 200's. Any thoughts?
  • CH also seems to have fluctuated a bit from my first set of tests.
  • CYA test is still a bit tricky for me. However, the advice about filling it to a specific mark and then check was very helpful. Adding stabilizer today to get this number up.
  • CSI is on the rise, but looks to be okay at the moment
Any other advice or feedback is appreciated!
 
1. Lower your pH to 7.5 about 12 or so ounces of muriatic (20 baum) will do it. Long term, keep it around 7.5

2. Elevate your TA with baking soda to get back up to 60 ppm. Let PoolMath calculate the dosage for you.

3. Leave FC and CH alone

4. A few days later, recheck the reults of your additions and this time bring CYA up to around 50-60 if it looks like it is still 30 ppm.

How does your water look?
 
1. Lower your pH to 7.5 about 12 or so ounces of muriatic (20 baum) will do it. Long term, keep it around 7.5

2. Elevate your TA with baking soda to get back up to 60 ppm. Let PoolMath calculate the dosage for you.

3. Leave FC and CH alone

4. A few days later, recheck the reults of your additions and this time bring CYA up to around 50-60 if it looks like it is still 30 ppm.

How does your water look?

Thanks for the guidance! As for the pool water, it's crystal clear, albeit a bit chilly for us Floridians.
 
FC is quite a bit higher than the target of 6. Should I do anything here such as dial back the SWG output and/or runtime (currently set to 65% for 11 hrs)
Great work on your follow up test.
It is ok for your FC to be on the high side. Also, monitor your FC over several days, because your SWCG is putting out a constant FC amount but UV and other factors affects the consumption so best to monitor it over time.

Your pH must have been quite a bit higher than 8.2 per your original post, so as @duraleigh recommended, add MA to get to the mid-7s. You can test again 1 hr after adding MA to verify your pH has declined. Keep your pump running.
 
Performed my weekend test and got the following values

Pool Log - 10-22-22.jpg

Starting to get comfortable with the test process, especially when many of the values remain consistent. Looks like most values are within range except pH and FC.
  • pH - I'll be adding about 22 oz of MA today to get this down.
  • FC - Continues to climb. At what point do I need to be concerned and take action?
    • As an FYI, my pump runs daily from 9am - 8pm (11 hours) with the SWG (IC 20) set to 35%
 
FC - Continues to climb. At what point do I need to be concerned and take action?
Take action now. Your FC should be around 4-6 ppm with a CYA of 70. FC above 10 ppm skews your pH test. I would cut it back to 20% or cut your running hours to maybe 6-7 daily if you can keep the pool clean running that low.

Test your pH again when you get FC down below 10 ppm.......add acid if necessary
 
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FC - Continues to climb. At what point do I need to be concerned and take action
I step in once I see a 'teen'. Fall is overproduction time. If you miss an adjustment in the spring you'll be below minimum.

You'll drive yourself nuts trying to micromanage a set # in either season. One day is just too different than the next. Make sure you are maintaining target, or more, and then step in at your preferred level of 'over'..
 

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