First Opening - Help me open my pool please

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Can anyone tell me if 8psi is normal for a cartridge filter system? I pulled both filters out last night and swapped them with ones I rinsed off. I haven't cleaned any of them in TSP yet, I was going to wait until after I'm done getting the pool clean to fully clean the filters. I just want to make sure that 8psi is ok. It doesn't seem to rise at all even when it gets dirty. The filter was filthy and it was still at 8psi.
 
Thanks for the input. The gauge drops to zero when the pump is off. I really hate this setup. Being that the filter is in the side of the pool its impossible to pull the filter out without having a ton of debris falling off of it and dumping back into the pool, its really frustrating! For the most part the pool is pretty clean now. Last night I'm pretty sure it held 21ppm FC from night time to this morning. I'm going to double check tonight and make sure it holds over night again. If it does I'm going to check my CC and I should be done shocking it. Then what do I do? Just let it drift back down to the target FC?
 
After a SLAM, you simply let the FC fall to its normal "target" range, and ensure the FC never drops below the minimum listed for your current CYA. You adjust pH if needed to its normal range and follow a regular schedule for chemicals and pump run times. :)
 
Texas Splash said:
After a SLAM, you simply let the FC fall to its normal "target" range, and ensure the FC never drops below the minimum listed for your current CYA. You adjust pH if needed to its normal range and follow a regular schedule for chemicals and pump run times. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. Is it normal for FC levels to drop quickly after a SLAM? Mine went from 20 to 11 in about 2 days...just wondering if that's normal
 
Really depends on the local weather conditions, but not unheard of. Normal FC loss in 24 hours could be 2-4 ppm, so add a couple extra FCs due to exceeding the normal target level from the SLAM and it's easy to see how it could drop. In the future, if you become concerned about FC loss on a normal day, simply run an overnight (OCLT) test. :)
 
Texas Splash said:
Really depends on the local weather conditions, but not unheard of. Normal FC loss in 24 hours could be 2-4 ppm, so add a couple extra FCs due to exceeding the normal target level from the SLAM and it's easy to see how it could drop. In the future, if you become concerned about FC loss on a normal day, simply run an overnight (OCLT) test. :)
Click to expand...

As long as Im not losing more than 1ppm overnight Im good to go then. If I lose more than 1ppm overnight I need to SLAM it again?
The liquid chlorine Im using must be weaker than the bottle states or my calculations for the size of the pool are wrong. Everytime the calculator told me to add a certain fl. oz. of bleach I would and it would never read the shock level I was aiming for. It would get close but not reach it.
 
Yes, that sounds like either the bleach strength or pool volume may be off. Also make sure to ensure the "weight" block is manually updated with the correct percentage of bleach you are using on the calculator. At night, yes .... if you do an OCLT and find that you lose more than 1 ppm of FC in the hours of darkness, there's a need to be concerned. The OCLT is that one test where you have to be VERY critical on everything - water sample from same place, careful use of R-0871 drops, etc.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Texas Splash said:
Yes, that sounds like either the bleach strength or pool volume may be off. Also make sure to ensure the "weight" block is manually updated with the correct percentage of bleach you are using on the calculator. At night, yes .... if you do an OCLT and find that you lose more than 1 ppm of FC in the hours of darkness, there's a need to be concerned. The OCLT is that one test where you have to be VERY critical on everything - water sample from same place, careful use of R-0871 drops, etc.
Click to expand...

I had the weight updated with 13.3% because that is what the bottle says. Maybe Im just wrong on my calculations of the pool size, who knows...Maybe I should increase the pool size from 19400 to 20000 and see if that nets better results.
I tried to be as accurate as possible when I did the OCLT. I did several tests at the same time the night before from different spots in the pool. I found the spot that resulted in the lowest ppm reading. I then tested again in the morning as early as possible, it went from 20ppm at night to 19ppm the morning after. The pool was crystal clear so I assumed I was done SLAMing and started to let the FC drop back down.
 
So I ran into a rather large issue I think. I bought a new replacement pressure gauge because mine was really beat up and missimg the glass. I installed it and the needle didn't move, I put the old one back in and it read 8. Took the old one back out and realized it was stuck at 8. Verified the new one works with air pressure from my compressor. So I don't even have enough pressure to move the gauge at all, not even 1 psi.
I cleaned both filters really well, still 0 psi. Ran the system with only 1 filter and still 0psi, ran it without the filters at all and still 0 psi. What's going on here??? I'll do some research but if anyone can help me out I would appreciate it.
 
awtrizzle said:
Any water coming out of your returns when you're showing no pressure? You let excess air pressure out of the system when you initially turned the pump back on?
Click to expand...

I don't know how to let excess air pressure out, there isn't a bleeder valve. Unless there is one on the pump I'm not aware of. I did unscrew the gauge and let water come shooting out and the screw the gauge back in just to make sure water was getting to it.
After taking a closer look at the gauge it starts reading psi at 4 psi. So I could have anywhere from 1-3psi, which still seems low...
 
Yeah I have a bleeder valve on top of my filter. I see that yours is different. I guess what you did will suffice in its absence. :)

You seeing any water coming out of your jets/returns in the pool. If so how does it look compared to how it used to look when you could see 8 psi on the gauge.
The only thing you did was change your gauge out?
 
awtrizzle said:
Yeah I have a bleeder valve on top of my filter. I see that yours is different. I guess what you did will suffice in its absence. :)

You seeing any water coming out of your jets/returns in the pool. If so how does it look compared to how it used to look when you could see 8 psi on the gauge.
The only thing you did was change your gauge out?
Click to expand...

yea the returns are moving water I can feel it and see it. It looks exactly the same, the old gauge read 8psi because it broken and I didn't realize it. It read 8 psi when I took it off, so nothing changed with pressure the gauge was just broken. My only though is my return are really close to the pump, maybe the pipe is so large and they are so short that there isn't much pressure in them...that's the only thing I can think of
 
The fact that water shot out indicates the vessel is pressurized. Seems to me the fitting you install the gauge into is blocked or plugged. Look into the other side while holding it up in the sun. 8-12 psi is normal.

I hope this helps.

Chris

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
Yes when I run my pump the gauge usually starts out at around 10 psi. I don't know about you particular setup but it may behoove you to get a gauge that starts at 0. If that's possible anyways. Could be that your setup runs on the low side. I've never seen the filter that you have so I can't say what a normal pressure would be for you.
 
After doing a bit of research I am not convinced that this is your MAIN filter. Everything that I can find on it calls it an Energy filter, made by Jandy, and used for their RayVac system. I am attaching a PDF link and it shows your filter unit on page 10 as being a sort of "separate auto cleaner filter". Are you sure that you don't have any other type of filter installed?

Also do a search here on the forum for Jandy Energy Filter, or just Energy Filter, and you will find a few really old posts that may have some helpful information. Maybe even search Jandy Ray-Vac.

http://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h05550.pdf
 
awtrizzle said:
After doing a bit of research I am not convinced that this is your MAIN filter. Everything that I can find on it calls it an Energy filter, made by Jandy, and used for their RayVac system. I am attaching a PDF link and it shows your filter unit on page 10 as being a sort of "separate auto cleaner filter". Are you sure that you don't have any other type of filter installed?

Also do a search here on the forum for Jandy Energy Filter, or just Energy Filter, and you will find a few really old posts that may have some helpful information. Maybe even search Jandy Ray-Vac.

http://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h05550.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks do much for the help! I had 2 large cartridge filters that are in the ground right next to the pool and then the small filter made by Jandy. I checked the pool shed and the previous owner left a Polaris 165 in the shed. Quick search shows it works off a return line and Carries a net along the bottom to clean the pool. I'm assuming if I figure out which return line is fed by the line with the Jandy gauge it will create some pressure with the Polaris hooked up. So I'm guessing now that I just don't have a gauge on my system to read the overall pressure to all the returns.
If this is the case do they make a pvc pipe I can install with a pressure gauge hookup and bleeder valve right off the pump?
Once again thanks for the help!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply