First full set of tests for this year.

[pb4uswim]

Opened my pool a few days ago and added chlorine. Today I got around to doing a full test.

FC 14
pH 7.3 (somewhere between 7.2 and 7.5)
TA 50
CH 50
CYA 30
Salt 1800

Clearly I need to add stabilizer. I'll get on that first. I'll probably also get some salt in there. Not sure what to do about the pH. It stayed in the very low 7's all year - never naturally increased. I might add something to bring that up a bit this year. I'll have to read up on that because I believe it impacts alkalinity. First thing's first - to the store for CYA and Salt.

Second issue is a question about salt. My SWG says salt is 2900 and my test says 1800. I try to keep it around 3000 so no doubt I'll put in a bag, maybe two. Question is, does it matter? If the unit thinks it's at 2900, isn't that all that matters? Won't it still keep making chlorine as long as there is actually salt in the water, rather than be 2900 per the unit, or 1800 per my test kit? BTW, my test kit for salt is a 3 or 4 years old. It's always read different from the unit, but would it be worth getting a new test kit, or, basically rely on the unit and put in more salt based on that.

 

[mknauss]

If your pH and TA are stable, I would not mess with them.

If you add any baking soda (TA), you may have to add acid to control pH.

You should get refills for your reagents if that old. Each spring (typically the month of March) TFTestkits sells discounted refill sets.

 

[PoolStored]

You need a new salt test kit.

 

[Newdude]

Don't raise the CYA significantly without an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

 

[pb4uswim]

If your pH and TA are stable, I would not mess with them.

If you add any baking soda (TA), you may have to add acid to control pH.

You should get refills for your reagents if that old. Each spring (typically the month of March) TFTestkits sells discounted refill sets.

You need a new salt test kit.

I've refilled my other reagents, it just that the salt doesn't get tested that frequently so I've let it slip.

 

[pb4uswim]

Don't raise the CYA significantly without an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

Point taken. What is the issue with adding the cya? Does algae throw off the test?

 

[pjt]

What specific test kit are you using?

Assuming a recommended kit:

FC 14

pH test in invalid with FC > 10.

TA 50

Are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change? This is usually ~3 more drops after the initial color change. TA of 50 is perfectly fine.

CH 50

Since you have a heater, bump up CH to 200.

 

[Newdude]

What is the issue with adding the cya?

Check out the slam values. You'd much rather maintain a 12.

Much. Much. Rather.





Algae is microscopic and by the time you can see it, it's exponentially growth is a runaway train. The test will let you see what you can't see before a costly slam at 70 CYA.

 

[pb4uswim]

Check out the slam values. You'd much rather maintain a 12. Much. Much. Rather.


View attachment 640584


Algae is microscopic and by the time you can see it, it's exponentially growth is a runaway train. The test will let you see what you can't see before a costly slam at 70 CYA.

Good point. I did put in a couple pounds but I won't put in any more until I do an OCLT. Thanks. I'll run the OCLT test tomorrow night. I think we're expecting storms tonight.

 

[Newdude]

1 Inch of rain (more than you'll get) will dilute you 1/60 th and you'd never know if it's well mixed. If your pass is that close to fail, it did you a favor by failing you.

 

[pb4uswim]

Second issue is a question about salt. My SWG says salt is 2900 and my test says 1800. I try to keep it around 3000 so no doubt I'll put in a bag, maybe two. Question is, does it matter? If the unit thinks it's at 2900, isn't that all that matters? Won't it still keep making chlorine as long as there is actually salt in the water, rather than be 2900 per the unit, or 1800 per my test kit? BTW, my test kit for salt is a 3 or 4 years old. It's always read different from the unit, but would it be worth getting a new test kit, or, basically rely on the unit and put in more salt based on that.

So, I cheaped out and got some salt test strips and they are consistent with my “old” reagents. I was at 1800, per my test kit (drops) and I added a bag of salt. Pool math said that would raise the salt by 400 so I should be at 2200. The test strips say I’m at 2400. Close enough. I’m still wondering about the SWG reading. It only went up by 100 - to 3000. So do we just ignore the SWG reading? I’m going to put another bag in to bring it up to 2600 which is very close to the minimum per my SWG manual of 2700. Assuming the SWG goes up a 100 or so, it should think there’s plenty of salt in the water. Is there anything wrong with my plan/assumptions?

 

[mknauss]

If your SWCG is showing 3000 ppm, leave it. You want to be on the low side of salinity for your SWCG system.
Remember, if the SWCG is happy, you are happy. No need to mess with the salinity if it is generating.

 

[pb4uswim]

If your SWCG is showing 3000 ppm, leave it. You want to be on the low side of salinity for your SWCG system.
Remember, if the SWCG is happy, you are happy. No need to mess with the salinity if it is generating.

Thank you.

 

[pb4uswim]

Finally got around to doing an OCLT. Passed. Onto maintenance mode!