Finally using a real test and super high CYA

[BraveJhawk]

I am finally using my K-2006 test instead of the strips and… whoa.

FC 1
CC 1
pH 6 drops of Acid Demand to get to 7.8
TA 220
CH 570
CYA 100 (or possibly higher)

Temp 88°F

I had been using tricolor and Bioguard chemicals that the previous owners had left behind. I was sick last week and not able to take care of the pool. There is a bit of algae forming on the walls that comes off when I brush.

With CYA this high should I empty a lot of the water?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

With the CYA test maxing out, you need to perform the diluted test to get a better idea of the true CYA level. See step 8 here:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jeffchap]

You're going to have to drain, but in order to know exactly how much we need to figure out exactly how high your CYA really is. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water and then repeat the test and multiply the result by 2.

And go ahead and add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine to the pool now to keep the algae from getting any worse.

 

[HermanTX]

@BraveJhawk The good thing about draining and having a fresh fill is that your CH will also drop and possibly your TA.

What you need to do is test your fill water - whatever setup you have to add water to your pool - take a sample of that and do the same tests. Your FC should be close to 0 ppm and your CYA is zero (no need to test that) but important to know your pH, TA and CH of your fill water. This will help prepare on what what you will need to do after you drain and start filling.

 

[arvil]

For the CYA test, after I'm done, I usually pour the sample from the dot cylinder back into the squirt bottle and do the test again just to verify.

 

[BraveJhawk]

Just did the diluted CYA test and it looks like 100 was accurate. About to run the full battery of tests as well as test the tap water as requested.

 

[BraveJhawk]

pool water:

FC: 6
CC: 0.5
TA: 210
pH: 6 drops of ADR to get to 7.8
CH: 520
CYA: ~100 (as stated above)
Temp: 87

Tap water:
pH: 7.8
TA: 50
CH: 50

 

[Texas Splash]

Good job testing. It would be ideal to exchange a little water to try and get that CYA down to at least the 60-70 rage. Plenty of FC protection from the sun. You could even live with a CYA of 80 if you had to and just keep the FC elevated as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. A CYA of 100 is a bit too much to manage. As soon as you lower the CYA, check to make sure your FC level is strong to avoid algae and also keep the pH in the 7.2 - 7.8 range. Then you'll be in great shape.

 

[BraveJhawk]

So, as a newbie want to make sure I drain it properly without messing up the pump or anything. Should I just run the pump with the filter set to Waste? Do I need to have water running into it as I do so that it does not get too low?

 

[IceShadow]

So, as a newbie want to make sure I drain it properly without messing up the pump or anything. Should I just run the pump with the filter set to Waste? Do I need to have water running into it as I do so that it does not get too low?

What you’re describing is similar to the No-drain water exchange, described at the link below. I wouldn’t use your pool pump to drain. It risks it too much if it runs dry. Better to get or rent a cheaper submersible pump.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[BraveJhawk]

So I drained out a good bit and am now down to 50 CYA:

FC: 0.5
CC: 0
pH: 3 drops of ADR to get to 7.8 (I put it into Pool Math app as 8.1)
TA: 130
CH: 310
CYA: 50
Temp: 84

I just added about 39 oz of dry acid to lower the pH and will test it again in about an hour. Then I’ll add chlorine. There is still some algae in the pool so I’m assuming I want my FC close to 8 in order to clear out the remaining algae.

 

[Flying Tivo]

If you have algae you need to SLAM Process. No way around it. The rest of your numbers look good. Do not use dry acid, use Muriatic acid instead.

 

[Mdragger88]

So I drained out a good bit and am now down to 50 CYA:

FC: 0.5
CC: 0
pH: 3 drops of ADR to get to 7.8 (I put it into Pool Math app as 8.1)
TA: 130
CH: 310
CYA: 50
Temp: 84

I just added about 39 oz of dry acid to lower the pH and will test it again in about an hour. Then I’ll add chlorine. There is still some algae in the pool so I’m assuming I want my FC close to 8 in order to clear out the remaining algae.

8ppm is the daily fc target for maintenance of a clear, algae free pool with a cya of 50ppm.
Tap the SLAM tab on the FC/CYA Levels & u will see that SLAM Process fc level is 20ppm.
U should Maintain 20ppm until u pass ALL 3 end of slam criteria:
You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear. (Crystal Clear w/ no visible algae dead or alive)

 

[BraveJhawk]

If you have algae you need to SLAM Process. No way around it. The rest of your numbers look good. Do not use dry acid, use Muriatic acid instead.

Too late not to use dry acid this time. But it was the last of it that I had and I won’t buy more. Considering my tap water is 7.8 pH, I’ll likely have to use Muriático acid in the near future.

I’ll try out the SLAM process

8ppm is the daily fc target for maintenance of a clear, algae free pool with a cya of 50ppm.
Tap the SLAM tab on the FC/CYA Levels & u will see that SLAM Process fc level is 20ppm.
U should Maintain 20ppm until u pass ALL 3 end of slam criteria:
You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear. (Crystal Clear w/ no visible algae dead or alive)

I’ll add chlorine to get to 20ppm and make sure it passes the tests. Before returning to normal/ideal FC.

Thanks all for the help so far!

 

[jeffchap]

Be sure to add as many times per day as possible - - SLAM is not a one and done. You need to keep that FC at 20 as much as you can.

 

[IceShadow]

And scrub and vacuum and look for any hidden spots that might hold algae.

 

[BraveJhawk]

Added chlorine earlier to get to 20ppm

Testing pH and FC now.

pH: 3 drops of ADR to get to 7.8 or 4 to get to 7.6. Will add muriatic acid according to table in Taylor booklet.

FC: 17. Will add chlorine first (before muriatic acid)
CC: 0
Temp: 87

 

[IceShadow]

The pH test will not be valid when FC is over 10ppm

 

[PoolStored]

No need to do anything to your pH during slam. Just add chlorine.

 

[BraveJhawk]

The pH test will not be valid when FC is over 10ppm

No need to do anything to your pH during slam. Just add chlorine.

I forgot about that when posting, but thankfully remembered before actually adding any acid. Focusing on chlorine.