FC Level

[black_vanilla]

I have been doing a lot of reading while I am waiting for my test kit to arrive(which arrives today). I want to make sure I understand that if I need to get my FC level up (balancing it with CYA), the best way is to add liquid chlorine. Having a SWG does not preclude or relieve me of having to occasionally add liquid chlorine, the SWG simply can make me need less because it’s generating some chlorine. Am I correct?

 

[JJ_Tex]

Liquid chlorine is great for an instant boost of chlorine and no extra ingredients, but there is no need to use it on a regular basis when your SWG is producing chlorine.

I have a SWG and will only have to use liquid chlorine in these scenarios:
- In the winter when the water is too cold for the SWG, I will use liquid chlorine
- The rest of the year when the SWG is on, I have a gallon on hand for any scenarios where I may need a boost (big pool party, creature falls into the pool, etc.).

In total I use about 3 gallons of liquid chlorine annually.

 

[black_vanilla]

Liquid chlorine is great for an instant boost of chlorine and no extra ingredients, but there is no need to use it on a regular basis when your SWG is producing chlorine.

I have a SWG and will only have to use liquid chlorine in these scenarios:
- In the winter when the water is too cold for the SWG, I will use liquid chlorine
- The rest of the year when the SWG is on, I have a gallon on hand for any scenarios where I may need a boost (big pool party, creature falls into the pool, etc.).

In total I use about 3 gallons of liquid chlorine annually.

That makes sense

 

[AUSpool]

I use liquid chlorine when it’s time to turn my SWG up as winter turns into spring or spring into summer. As it starts to warm up my tests start to show my FC drop below my target so I turn my SWG up a little and add a manual dose of liquid chlorine to bring me back up to my target. Keeping my SWG ballanced where output equals use. I use my data from last year as guide when turning it up.

 

[Mdragger88]

The deal is that the swcg is a maintainer - it produces chlorine slowly over a long period of time.
It cannot be expected to do more than that or make up for a deficit, raise to slam level etc.
If you need more chlorine you use liquid chlorine then adjust your swcg accordingly.
What size cell do you have?

 

[black_vanilla]

The deal is that the swcg is a maintainer - it produces chlorine slowly over a long period of time.
It cannot be expected to do more than that or make up for a deficit, raise to slam level etc.
If you need more chlorine you use liquid chlorine then adjust your swcg accordingly.
What size cell do you have?

Forgive me! I’m new to owning a pool. I’m not sure what you mean by size. I have the Hayward Aquarite S3 for 25K Gallons.

 

[Mdragger88]

Forgive me! I’m new to owning a pool. I’m not sure what you mean by size. I have the Hayward Aquarite S3 for 25K Gallons.

That’s exactly what I meant
Add that to your signature. Its a t9 cell
The max fc per day that cell can produce in your pool is 4.9ppm/day if run at 100% around the clock.


In the deep south in the peak of summer days fc loss can be up to 4 or 5ppm/day this means you will need to run your cell quite a bit & possibly need to supplement with liquid chlorine.
This means that you’ll run through the finite 8-10k hour lifespan fairly quickly with your long seasons. Likely within a couple of years.
When its time to replace the cell I suggest that you get a t15 40k gal cell so you don’t have to run it is much to properly chlorinate thus increasing its life span.

 

[black_vanilla]

That’s exactly what I meant
Add that to your signature. Its a t9 cell
The max fc per day that cell can produce in your pool is 4.9ppm/day if run at 100% around the clock.

View attachment 567115
In the deep south in the peak of summer days fc loss can be up to 4 or 5ppm/day this means you will need to run your cell quite a bit & possibly need to supplement with liquid chlorine.
This means that you’ll run through the finite 8-10k hour lifespan fairly quickly with your long seasons. Likely within a couple of years.
When its time to replace the cell I suggest that you get a t15 40k gal cell so you don’t have to run it is much to properly chlorinate thus increasing its life span.

Why are life lessons learned after the fact? Had I have known that, I would have bought the larger one.

Would supplementing with liquid chlorine regularly help prolong the life?

 

[black_vanilla]

That’s exactly what I meant
Add that to your signature. Its a t9 cell
The max fc per day that cell can produce in your pool is 4.9ppm/day if run at 100% around the clock.

View attachment 567115
In the deep south in the peak of summer days fc loss can be up to 4 or 5ppm/day this means you will need to run your cell quite a bit & possibly need to supplement with liquid chlorine.
This means that you’ll run through the finite 8-10k hour lifespan fairly quickly with your long seasons. Likely within a couple of years.
When its time to replace the cell I suggest that you get a t15 40k gal cell so you don’t have to run it is much to properly chlorinate thus increasing its life span.

I think I misspoke. I just went into the App and I have T-Cell-CELLS340. Which according to the website is the 40K.

 

[proavia]

I think I misspoke. I just went into the App and I have T-Cell-CELLS340. Which according to the website is the 40K.

Verify by looking at the SWG. What model number is on the cell?
Different cell sizes can be set in the control panel/app that may/may not match the actual cell.

 

[black_vanilla]

Verify by looking at the SWG. What model number is on the cell?
Different cell sizes can be set in the control panel/app that may/may not match the actual cell.

I just verified it; it’s the 340….whew

 

[Mdragger88]

I think I misspoke. I just went into the App and I have T-Cell-CELLS340. Which according to the website is the 40K.

Fantastic
That cell puts out 1.47 #/ day or 7.3ppm/day in your pool if needed.
You can tinker with run times & percentages in
PoolMath to get an idea for your necessary settings to match your daily fc needs along with accomplishing your skimming needs

Most here with a swcg & a vsp prefer to run “low & slow” pretty much around the clock so they are always skimming & chlorinating for very little coin at lowish rpms.
You just need to have enough flow to activate your swcg’s flow switch then add a couple hundred rpms to that to account for the filter becoming dirty & restricting flow. That may be anywhere between 1200 & 1800 rpms for most people.

 

[black_vanilla]

Fantastic
That cell puts out 1.47 #/ day or 7.3ppm/day in your pool if needed.
You can tinker with run times & percentages in
PoolMath to get an idea for your necessary settings to match your daily fc needs along with accomplishing your skimming needs

Most here with a swcg & a vsp prefer to run “low & slow” pretty much around the clock so they are always skimming & chlorinating for very little coin at lowish rpms.
You just need to have enough flow to activate your swcg’s flow switch then add a couple hundred rpms to that to account for the filter becoming dirty & restricting flow. That may be anywhere between 1200 & 1800 rpms for most people.

Knowing all of this, would it be better to maintain the salt level toward the higher end of the range, 3200-3400?

 

[proavia]

No - with the Hayward SWG you want to run the salt toward the low end of the suggested range.
It's better for the electronics as it runs cooler when salt levels are at the lower end of the suggested range.

 

[black_vanilla]

No - with the Hayward SWG you want to run the salt toward the low end of the suggested range.
It's better for the electronics as it runs cooler when salt levels are at the lower end of the suggested range.

Thank you sir!

 

[Mdragger88]

Also when the cell is new the “salt reading” on the display may be falsely higher so be sure you are testing your actual salinity & not just depending upon the read out. This is because it doesn’t actually measure salt.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com