Failed OCLT?

Pool pictures.

Keep your FC in range for your CYA. Keep it near the top of the range. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Post a full set of results, and we'll give you guidance on balancing.

Based on the pool water pictures, we can decide about metals in the water.

No sequestrants or algaecides.

Let's identify the stains first:

As to chemicals, read these:
 
Okay sounds like a plan. I'm going to try to show you the stains on the pool and a picture. I have dealt with these stains for about 5 years. I have determined that they are metal stains. Their color is a light buckskin. They are on 80% of the pool. You can see in some of the areas where last time I used stain remover, which caused all this algae bloom, when I started the slam. Which was on July 8th. I have used the natural chemistry extra strength stain remover. When I've used it in the past it had dropped my FC so low that I have had algae blooms. Not bad I caught him quick enough but in catching them quick enough you bring your FC up and then the stains return. Unless there is a better way I have pretty much decided to live with the stains I hate them they are unsightly but better than an algae bloom. I will send a full set of results when it is time. I am thinking probably tomorrow afternoon before FC comes down to 6/8 I am at 50cya. I just noticed something does tfp cell chemicals? I did not know this. Again thanks for all your help.
 

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I just noticed something does tfp cell chemicals? I did not know this. Again thanks for all your help.
???

If you are ok with the stains, leave them.

I would first identify the stain using the stain guide above.

I would use this If it is iron staining. You want to do it when the water is cold so you avoid algae...that was your main issue. Unless you are willing to replace all the water, you will be on a regular sequestrant regimen.
,
 
I am just going to live with the stains. I intended to use the 4.0 culator for in the skim basket just to try to keep it from getting worse. What are your thoughts on that? And does tfp sell chemicals?
 
Hello FC is down to 14. PH is still too high to read it is over 8 alkalinity is at 70. Can I trust this reading with the FC at 14.? If I can trust that what do I need to add to raise my alkalinity. Is alkalinity suppose to be between 100 and 120? Thank you
 
Hello I added six cups of baking soda last night to bring the alkalinity up. That was it 7:00 p.m.. it is now 3:30 p.m. next day
FC. 11
CC. 0
ALK. 100
PH. 8 and slightly above
CYA. 50
Hardness is at 200.
Is there anything I need to do at this point. I am tfp clear. I will send a pic. Please let me know what if anything is my next move.
 

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added six cups of baking soda last night to bring the alkalinity up
70 was perfect. Let it drift down as you manage the Ph and let it be in the low range. That'll help keep the Ph stable going forward.
PH. 8 and slightly above
Ph is unreliable at 10+ FC. If your shades are off looking at the block, let FC drift down first. I find 4 drops of phenol red instead of 5 puts mine back on the right color range.
 

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Hello
FC. 9
All. 100
CC. 0
PH. 7.8
CYA. 50
HARDNESS. 200
PHOSPHATES. 800
Here are the numbers for today at 3:00 p.m.. it looks like I am where I need to be on everything ph maybe is a little high. What are your thoughts on these numbers and what if anything should I do next. Thank you.
 
With a CYA of 50 and a FC of 9 - this is GOLDEN!
Something I am learning myself - Team Run Hot - at any point you do a test ALWAYS be in range.
Your Range is 6-8 on FC.
I am losing 1 - 2 ppm per day - so I dose "Hot" to always be in range no matter when I test.
Depending what you lose you want to be ABOVE an 8 that way when you fall by 1 -2 ppm, you're "In Range"

PH of 7.8 is a little high - you can bring this down using Muriatic Acid.
Lower PH from 7.8 to 7.4 (find the correct dosage in PoolMath)
When PH raises again, lower with Muriatic Acid

I'm no expert on Hardness/Phosphates - might need another friend to help us here!

@Newdude thoughts?
 
LOL thank you so much. But just having spinal surgery on the 17th it's not going to allow me to go swimming for another like 3 weeks. But everybody else is swimming and having a good time. I would think at this point I am just to keep things as they are FC should be between 6/8. If FC drops below six I should use the liquid chlorine correct? I'm sure that'll die down within the next day or so. Alkalinity
let it die down to about 70?. Keep an eye on the ph and do not let it go down past what do you think 7.4/7.6. When things go down below those levels I will ask you what I should add to keep it good. Thanks again so much for your help
 
PH of 7.8 is a little high
Any 7 is equally OK. 8 is even ok. Dosing a few days early or late won't ever matter.

200 CH is fine to satisfy has heater warranties. It serves no purpose other than that for vinyl pools.
PHOSPHATES. 800
*ppb. Billion. Really really really small #. If you remain free and clear above min after the daily UV loss, it's like setting up a big buffet in the Sahara desert. So what ? Ain't nobody showing up to eat it.

Yes it's algae food. No it doesn't matter if you're properly balanced.


. I would think at this point I am just to keep things as they are FC should be between 6/8. If FC drops below six I should use the liquid chlorine correct?

Minimum FC
+ recent daily loss
+ 1 or 2 FC wiggle room
--------------------------
= stoopid clear trouble free pool.

Schedule out of whack and won't be free to dose as usual ? Add enough to cover the above for 1.5 or 2 days (etc), and verify as soon as you're free.
 
Yes I love the idea of running hot. I have a gallon of muriatic acid but don't know how much to add to bring that pH Down. You had said to use the dosage in pool math.?? Where do I get that or do you know what I should add for 26,000 gallons to bring it down to the 7.4 needing to lose 4 PPM.?
 
Any 7 is equally OK. 8 is even ok. Dosing a few days early or late won't ever matter.

200 CH is fine to satisfy has heater warranties. It serves no purpose other than that for vinyl pools.

*ppb. Billion. Really really really small #. If you remain free and clear above min after the daily UV loss, it's like setting up a big buffet in the Sahara desert. So what ? Ain't nobody showing up to eat it.

Yes it's algae food. No it doesn't matter if you're properly balanced.




Minimum FC
+ recent daily loss
+ 1 or 2 FC wiggle room
--------------------------
= stoopid clear trouble free pool.

Schedule out of whack and won't be free to dose as usual ? Add enough to cover the above for 1.5 or 2 days (etc), and verify as soon as you're free.
Hi Jess. Thanks for your input. Gotcha
 
Where do I get that
Open poolmath and click on the Ph tab. It wants the current Ph and the target, the TA and which strength MA you're using. It'll say how much to add at the bottom.
bring it down to the 7.4 needing to lose 4 PPM.?
It'll probably be stable longer at 7.8 if you run a high 7. Dose at 8+ and only down to 7.8 or 7.6.
 
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That sounds like a plan do nothing to it hits about eight and then go to the pool math chart. I looked at up in the menu and it looks as if I have to download that as an app. Is that correct?
 
Yes it's an awesome free app.

The $8 yearly subscription will save all your logs and we can see them too. It's super helpful if we need to reverse engineer a problem, or other times we spot a trend before it's a problem.

Click here : PoolMath


There is also an onine version towards the bottom of any forum page. Its called 'old poolmath'. It doesnt save your history though.
 

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