I had posted earlier about chasm between the theory and practice in pool plumbing (especially when it comes to finding 2.5" compatible equipment). So, I conducted little non-scientific science experiment with different pipe sizes/length and their impact on flows. Hopefully, this will help others as they design their own pools.
Some general takeaways:
The diagram below shows the pool plumbing... (I know, I easily win the worst diagram in the history... ). Blue are the 2" pipes and orange are the 2.5" pipes. I ran the pump at three different speeds (1000, 1600, 2200) and measured GPM in three different scenarios:
A - pump to filter and back (3-way heading towards the SWCG and heater are closed - they are bypassed).
B - pump to filter and then to SWCG (heater is bypassed). Section heading to SWCG (about 3' section each way) is 2" piping but the rest is 2.5".
C - pump to filter to heater to SWCG (heater is only about 1.5' further away from SWCG).
I had flow meters in three different locations (I marked them in red dots):
FlowVis at the first check valve before the pump.
FlowVis at the check valve between heater and SWCG
Blue-white flow meter at just before 3-way diverter for the heater (the one that would send flow to the SWCG only or to heater (and then it would go to SWCG).
Couple more observations:
1) Blue-white and FlowVis matched very well around 45GPM and below. Around 60GPM Blue-White consistently showed 4-5GPM lower value. Not 100% sure which one is more accurate but, I would argue, for home-owner, both are good enough.
2) I had regular Jandy CV outside the heater and bought Flow-Vis retrofit. The retrofit seems to be exactly the same as the full flow-vis kit (tested by exchanging them). Thus, getting the actual flowvis (whole thing rather than just retrofit for Jandy) seems much better deal since you are getting an external body for only $10 more. You can just take out the flap and use it and keep the body if you need later on.
3) FlowVis flap has noticeably higher resistance than standard Jandy CV but when tested both in the same location, FlowVis only reduced flow by around 1-2GPM. Not sure how much Blue-white reduces the flow...
P.S. Pool and spa are combined (they share the same space/water). On rare occasions when I need to use the spa, I put divider between the spa and the rest of the pool (2mm plastic sheet), switch circulation to spa only and heat it up quickly. Otherwise, it's one combined space with two sets of drains and two sets of returns. yes, its idiosyncratic but serves our specific needs.

Some general takeaways:
- If you are going to need more than 30GPM, go with 2.5" piping even if you think you don't need per formal GPM recommendation - it will pay big dividends in the long run. (especially if you need more than 30GPM)
- Even if you cannot sustain 2.5" piping throughout (small SWCG and tiny inlet/outlet on pumps, etc.) keep the rest of the piping 2.5". As others have stated more eloquently on this forum: it's not just about a restriction but its about restriction over distance.
The diagram below shows the pool plumbing... (I know, I easily win the worst diagram in the history... ). Blue are the 2" pipes and orange are the 2.5" pipes. I ran the pump at three different speeds (1000, 1600, 2200) and measured GPM in three different scenarios:
A - pump to filter and back (3-way heading towards the SWCG and heater are closed - they are bypassed).
B - pump to filter and then to SWCG (heater is bypassed). Section heading to SWCG (about 3' section each way) is 2" piping but the rest is 2.5".
C - pump to filter to heater to SWCG (heater is only about 1.5' further away from SWCG).
| Using pool drain and returns only (2" system around pool) | Using both pool and spa drains and returns (2.5" system throughout - except around SWCG and heater). Overall pipe length is the same but the drain/return sections are "wider" when comparing to the previous column. | |
1000RPM | A- 28GPM B - 26GPM C - less than 20GPM - unable to measure | A- 29GPM B - 26GPM C - less than 20GPM - unable to measure | |
1600RPM | A- 46GPM B - 43GPM C - 38GPM | A-52GPM B-49GPM C-40GPM | |
2200RPM | A-61GPM B-58GPM C-51GPM | A-71GPM B-66GPM C-61GPM |
I had flow meters in three different locations (I marked them in red dots):
FlowVis at the first check valve before the pump.
FlowVis at the check valve between heater and SWCG
Blue-white flow meter at just before 3-way diverter for the heater (the one that would send flow to the SWCG only or to heater (and then it would go to SWCG).
Couple more observations:
1) Blue-white and FlowVis matched very well around 45GPM and below. Around 60GPM Blue-White consistently showed 4-5GPM lower value. Not 100% sure which one is more accurate but, I would argue, for home-owner, both are good enough.
2) I had regular Jandy CV outside the heater and bought Flow-Vis retrofit. The retrofit seems to be exactly the same as the full flow-vis kit (tested by exchanging them). Thus, getting the actual flowvis (whole thing rather than just retrofit for Jandy) seems much better deal since you are getting an external body for only $10 more. You can just take out the flap and use it and keep the body if you need later on.
3) FlowVis flap has noticeably higher resistance than standard Jandy CV but when tested both in the same location, FlowVis only reduced flow by around 1-2GPM. Not sure how much Blue-white reduces the flow...
P.S. Pool and spa are combined (they share the same space/water). On rare occasions when I need to use the spa, I put divider between the spa and the rest of the pool (2mm plastic sheet), switch circulation to spa only and heat it up quickly. Otherwise, it's one combined space with two sets of drains and two sets of returns. yes, its idiosyncratic but serves our specific needs.
