Electrical question on new build

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N

nj323ci

0
Jul 1, 2013
79
New Jersey
New inground going in and electrician is scheduled to do his work this weekend.

PB includes standard 20amp circuit with manual timer, pool light hookup, connections to pump, heater and SWG. All within 50 feet of panel. My panel is roughly 100 feet away.

Electrician called me and asked if I was interested in a 40 amp sun panel installed by the pool instead. Up charge of $700. He said would be wise if I plan on installing a pool house or kitchen area etc in the future. We do not plan a pool house or kitchen, but I do plan on installing some landscape lights, post lights and possibly a water feature in the future.

Thoughts on upgrading to the 40 amp sub panel? Hard for me to figure out if it would be needed for what I want to do out there. I would definitely not want to spend the extra $700 unless necessary and it made sense to do so now.

Thanks for any help/info.
 
For me a sub-panel was a requirement but since I got the entire Jandy control system it included a subpanel within that electrical box. There is plenty of capacity for expansion. The electrician ran 220 volt 30 amp service from my main box out to the Jandy subpanel. The subpanel has a 40 amp main fuse. This is where all the equipment will get power but I can still turn off the whole mess from the inside breaker.

I'd definitely upgrade to the 40 amp panel it gives you a lot of options for later on.
 
Yes, do it. We are putting in a Pentair Easytouch 8 control system, which is also has 150amp breaker base. But I decided to add another 100amp box so I can run all my other stuff off of it (lights, tankless water heater, etc). I think $700 is decent.
 

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Price seems decent if it includes all materials. I've installed many subpanels at my home, here are some considerations:

Would you ever plan on adding any of the of the following? This could impact the sizing of the box and circuit:

-heat pump (electric)
-extra electric pump for water features - estimate size and motor type
-Any electric heating appliances (stove, dishwasher)
-AV equipment (I may be in the minority here, haha)
-Power tools in/around the area
 
Thanks everyone. Just found out my existing panels were full already. Electrician said we could "try" the double breaker option but may not pass inspection depending on the town. Plus the double breakers cost more already. I think this made my decision to go with the additional 40amp panel much easier. Lol.
 
Curious how they would do it without a sub panel anyway... I didn't have a choice, but would have regardless. 100 amp subpanel at the equipment pad (super handy). Has individual circuits for heat pump, pool pump, power cover, pool light, and service receptacle (that has been very handy - I keep a small air compressor on the pad for inflating toys).
 
cjpwalker said:
Curious how they would do it without a sub panel anyway... I didn't have a choice, but would have regardless. 100 amp subpanel at the equipment pad (super handy). Has individual circuits for heat pump, pool pump, power cover, pool light, and service receptacle (that has been very handy - I keep a small air compressor on the pad for inflating toys).
Click to expand...

Not sure. They have told me for my pump, light, gas heater and extra outlet a regular 20 amp circuit like in your kitchen would be sufficient.
 
cjpwalker said:
Curious how they would do it without a sub panel anyway... I didn't have a choice, but would have regardless. 100 amp subpanel at the equipment pad (super handy). Has individual circuits for heat pump, pool pump, power cover, pool light, and service receptacle (that has been very handy - I keep a small air compressor on the pad for inflating toys).
Click to expand...

Not sure. They have told me for my pump, light, gas heater and extra outlet a regular 20 amp circuit like in your kitchen would be sufficient.
 
I would definitely go for a sub panel. 1 20amp circuit is ridiculous for running pool equipment. I think you will be real sorry real quick. I ran an easy touch 60 amp sub panel out to my equipment pad and probably have about 7 circuits running off of it for various pool equipment.
Running your pump on 220v will also save electricity.
If he has enough space for a circuit then he only needs to free up one more breaker to give you what you need. This can be easily accomplished by combining 2 existing circuits. You will not regret it. Sounds like he is just being lazy and doesn't want the hassle of balancing your load.
$700 is not a bad price considering the distance from the panel. Copper is expensive. I doubt that I would do it that cheap myself but I am in California and don't know the going rate in your town.
 
dumbcluck said:
I would definitely go for a sub panel. 1 20amp circuit is ridiculous for running pool equipment. I think you will be real sorry real quick. I ran an easy touch 60 amp sub panel out to my equipment pad and probably have about 7 circuits running off of it for various pool equipment.
Running your pump on 220v will also save electricity.
If he has enough space for a circuit then he only needs to free up one more breaker to give you what you need. This can be easily accomplished by combining 2 existing circuits. You will not regret it. Sounds like he is just being lazy and doesn't want the hassle of balancing your load.
$700 is not a bad price considering the distance from the panel. Copper is expensive. I doubt that I would do it that cheap myself but I am in California and don't know the going rate in your town.
Click to expand...

Thanks. They were here today and I ended up going with the extra panel. The run was 200' from my house panel to the pool pad. $700 was for the new subpanel and 50' run. I ended up paying a little more than $700 ($1400 actually) for the longer run and panel, gas heater hook up, SWG hookup and pool light. I still think it was fair considering the distance and extra copper needed.

Thanks everyone!!
 
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