Does the generator ALSO sense the salt ppm?

[BrianWithAY]

My system says low salt (~2000). My mobile sensor I use shows 3200 which I believe to be accurate.
The salt cell works meaning I out it in a bucket of pool water and it generates chlorine just fine.
Is the salt cell itself also reading the ppm or is there typically a separate sensor somewhere getting that information.

FWIW this is a 20 year old 20k gallon Salt pool with typical legacy hayward components

Thx.

 

[PoolStored]

What is the make and model of your salt cell and controller? What mobile sensor are you using?

 

[BrianWithAY]

What is the make and model of your salt cell and controller? What mobile sensor are you using?

 

[ajw22]

Hayward SWG systems do not have a salinity sensor. Salt is a calculated value based on the volts and amps and new cell performance.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[BrianWithAY]

I just put in a brand new cell and the result is the same. My portable tester shows 3100 but the pool controls show around 1700 and "Low salt" What else could be the issue?

 

[Lake Placid]

Hayward aqua rite can be calibrated to your salt reading to clear this type of error. Hayward Pro Logic can save the instant salinity assuming it’s correct to allow the cell to produce while it reaverages salinity.

 

[rmchambers]

My Hayward reads lower in salt than the tester I have which is similar to the one above. Make sure your PH is good, the higher the PH is the less accurate the results from the Amp test the salt system produces. I was up at 8.0 so I put in a gallon of muriatic acid and it made the salt generator up the salt ppm in the display. It also allowed some free chlorine to come out somehow because I could smell it.

 

[BrianWithAY]

I replaced the main board today as upon close inspection, I saw some burn marks on mine.
This is the Goldline controls from Auqu Logic.

The new board is installed and functional but the problem persists.
The only difference is now, when it kicks on, it reads accurate for about 2 seconds then starts dropping.

I turn the chlorinator on and it reads 3200 then a couple seconds later 3000,2800,2600, and on down to about 1700.

This is frustrating. The chemicals in the pool appear to be balanced as I am adding liquid chlorine until I can get this resolved.
I have tried 3 different cells, replaced the flow switch because the wires were looking rough, and now the main board.

What else can I try?
I had an electric / pool company come out and they were worthless. They said the flow switch is your problem and wanted to charge me $485 to replace it.
I gave them the $99 trip fee an told them to take a hike.

 

[ajw22]

You should stop throwing money at the old system and get the OmniPL upgrade…

Hayward OmniPL - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Are you using genuine Hayward cells?

Please show us your actual equipment and not stock pictures. We know what the equipment looks like. We want to see exactly what you have.

 

[BrianWithAY]

 

[ajw22]

Those are not genuine Hayward cells like you showed in picture #3.

I suggest you try a new genuine Hayward cell.

 

[BrianWithAY]

Sorry, no not hayward cells but haven't used hayward brand cell since I bought the house 15 years ago.
There has always been a knock off cell there but they have always worked just fine. I will buy a hayward cell just to see but I suspect I will still have this issue

 

[ajw22]

Was the new board you got a genuine new Hayward board?

 

[BrianWithAY]

It was model: 066008g-1 rev: g

I replaced it with the same. It was not Hayward brand, it is Goldline Controls Brand.

This is the original board



This is the replacement

 

[ajw22]

I replaced it with the same. It was not Hayward brand, it is Goldline Controls Brand.

Goldline Controls®, began as Independent Energy, Inc., a company founded in 1975. In 1994, the company began producing Aqua Rite® salt chlorinators for swimming pools.

Hayward® Industries, Inc. acquired Goldline Controls® in August 2004.

 

[ajw22]

What are the diagnostics?

Report all readings when you..

• Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
• When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
• Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[BrianWithAY]

 

[BrianWithAY]

Update: It appears to be working now.
Yesterday after replacing the main board, it was reading 1700 then after an hour, I checked it again (When I posted the above video) and it was around 1900
Last night it was showing 2500 and this morning it matches my mobile tester exactly.

I am going to watch it today and see if temp is a factor but possibly, it just needed time to calibrate?
Currently at 6:50 AM everything looks perfect.