Do I have to get in the swamp to clean it?

[Amburruss]

Hi all! I am trying to get our pool ready for the summer. I struggled last year with chemicals and spent more time cleaning than enjoying it! No more! My test kit is on the way, but in the meantime, I’m trying to clear out all the debri and algae (I didn’t cover it for the winter ?). I have blindly dumped several gallons of bleach in over the last 2 days and have been scooping debri like crazy! I couldn’t stand the idea of no chlorine in it having to clean it out. The pump has been running non stop for 3 days now. I can’t seem to get all the disgusting algae clumps (guessing that’s what they are) out! I had the water tested at the pool store yesterday just to see and they told me to change a few feet of the water that there was too much TDS. Ugh I have been reading now that that was bogus. So I have reread pool school several times now and am going to do this right when the test kit gets here but I would still like to get the gunk out of it before. I think it’s too much for the filter to handle. Every time I brush, it clogs the strainer attached to the wall. So my question is, do I have to get in and net everything out with brushing (before it is slammed ?) or after I slam it will it all magically disappear?? Lol A lot of the clumps break apart in the net too, going back into the water, making it seem like I’m wasting my time. I can’t reach all the pool from our deck yet. Any help on weather to wait for the test kit and slamming, or just keep scooping would be appreciated!
thank you!

 

[BattleOfYakima]

We actually don't suggest "Swimming" until the water is no longer green, the FC is between min & shock for your CYA ([FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]) and you can see the bottom everywhere. Who knows what could be in there, ya know? We've seen everything.... (shudders at bad memories).

Did you order a test kit we suggest? If not, perhaps consider returning it?

We can calculate how much bleach to add each day until your test kit comes if you go to PoolMath and scroll down to the "Estimating pool volume" section and plug in your numbers and share the result in gallons here. That will help start the pre-SLAM Process process.

You're right to net and leaf rake out what you can. Another, more extreme option if there is a lot of debris on the bottom - is performing a siphon vacuuming which uses gravity (not the skimmer basket and pump) to dump the water/solids at the bottom of your pool (via vac head on pole) directly through the vac hose and onto your yard. You lose a lot of water - but it is pretty gross water if you keep moving slowly around the bottom. You then top the pool off just under the surface with fresh fill water. If this sounds good, I'll explain more, let me know.

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Note: do you have reason to believe there are sticks/other sharp things at the bottom or is this highly unlikely where your pool is located?

 

[RobertScalchi]

Say hello to Kermit the frog for us....lol

 

[funandsun]

Hi all! I am trying to get our pool ready for the summer. I struggled last year with chemicals and spent more time cleaning than enjoying it! No more!

My test kit is on the way, but in the meantime, I’m trying to clear out all the debri and algae (I didn’t cover it for the winter �&#56876. I have blindly dumped several gallons of bleach in over the last 2 days and have been scooping debri like crazy! I couldn’t stand the idea of no chlorine in it having to clean it out.

The pump has been running non stop for 3 days now. I can’t seem to get all the disgusting algae clumps (guessing that’s what they are) out! I had the water tested at the pool store yesterday just to see and they told me to change a few feet of the water that there was too much TDS. Ugh

I have been reading now that that was bogus. So I have reread pool school several times now and am going to do this right when the test kit gets here but I would still like to get the gunk out of it before.

I think it’s too much for the filter to handle. Every time I brush, it clogs the strainer attached to the wall. So my question is, do I have to get in and net everything out with brushing (before it is slammed �&#56883 or after I slam it will it all magically disappear?? Lol A lot of the clumps break apart in the net too, going back into the water, making it seem like I’m wasting my time. I can’t reach all the pool from our deck yet.

Any help on weather to wait for the test kit and slamming, or just keep scooping would be appreciated!
thank you!

Welcome to TFP and congrats on your new test kit that is on its way! Going to get plenty of good advice and new tips on how to best handle things. I look forward to seeing your transformation.

 

[RobertScalchi]

All kidding aside I've opened my pool black before and had frogs living in it. It smell like a swamp.

This last year I let leaves get in the pool because the cable snapped on my cover, and this year I opened up to clear green, and now 5 days later I'm crystal clear.

You are in good hands here at TFP.

If you want to turn your pool from green to crystal clear. First order of business is order the Taylor
K - 2006 or the TF - 100 test kit. You are going to need the fas-dpd test to accurately gauge your free chlorine levels at a higher range for SLAM or Shocking your pool.

Once you get your kit measure all the results such as CYA, FC, TA, CH, PH.

TA and CH will be irrelevant for now. Get us those numbers and input them into the pool math calculator here at TFP.

You're going to want to do some homework and read Pool School here at TFP to get a better understanding of our methodologies and water chemistry procedures such as BBB and SLAM.

Once we get your water chemistry levels adjusted accordingly for your needs, we will then focus on filtration aids that will get your pool clear that much faster.

 

[BattleOfYakima]

If you want to turn your pool from green to crystal clear. First order of business is order the Taylor
K - 2006 or the TF - 100 test kit. You are going to need the fas-dpd test to accurately gauge your free chlorine levels at a higher range for SLAM or Shocking your pool.

Just to build on that:
For true swamps - the K2006 really doesn't have enough FAS-DPD chems to last the swimming season (or entire slam in bad swamps) - the K2006C is likely needed or else you'll be ordering more FAS-DPD chems and paying more shipping.
The TF100 has a lot more than the K2006, but maybe not enough to last a full year - so going with the TF100 with XL option is almost always enough to get people until the pre-swim season refill sale next year over at http://tftestkits.net/.

All are great kits that use the Taylor chemicals, just a matter of how much of what you need and value overall.

 

[RobertScalchi]

Yeah the K-2006 CYA and FAS-DPD reagent gets consumed pretty quickly. Which is why the TF-100. Is the better option. Just figured I would throw both of them out there.

Coming back around to the subject of filtration. A TFP member pointed me torwards using a Duda Diesel Bag in my return jet a few years ago on here during the discussion subject of polishing water and better micron filtration.

I triple filter my water now with the secondary filtration aids consisting of using a skimmer sock or fine hair net, my primary filtration cartridge, and the duda diesel bag at 5 micron to clear my water of algae and any fine suspended particles of debris. To use the duda diesel bag, simply cut the ring off of it, and hose clamp It to an elbow, and screw it into your return jet. I have cleared a green pool to crystal clear in 5-6 days. There have been reports from other TFP members filtering out fire ash successfully out of their pool at 1 micron due to a forest fire near their home in CA.

Because I don't want to overload someone new to TFP with information just yet, we will focus on getting the water chemistry right first using the TFP methods and test kits. Then come back to filtration aids discussion.

Here is the eBay link for the duda diesel bag if anyone is interested in ordering it. You want to order it in polyester felt heat treated, 4"x14" at 5 micron.

Sewn Industrial Filter Sock Bags Water Liquid Biodiesel WVO Oil Dust Fuel Diesel | eBay

 

[RobertScalchi]

Amburruss. Your main goal is to get as much debris out of the pool as possible. Even if you have to blindly leaf bag rake the floor with a leaf net.
Then you want to follow the procedures here and test your water chemistry first. Use the Pool Math calculator at TFP to determine and add the necessary components to your pool. You enter your size of pool by gallons, enter the current readings, then enter you're target readings, and Pool Math will give you the values in oz. Of what to add. If the water chemistry requirements are met, you are going to start a SLAM or SHOCK LEVEL ADJUST MAINTAIN process. Ths will sanitize your water and eventually turn your dead algae white, and yo. Make sure to read the pool school section of the forum. Following these procedures, it will turn your pool from green to clear green, to cloudy blue, to crystal blue in about a week or so. Results vary, due to different pool sizes, different pumps, etc.

 

[funandsun]

This took me about 25 days. I followed SLAM. Any questions? Everyone here has done it and coached it. We can help. It is all spelled out in the ebook that is free, pool school is free, pool math is free. You already have the kit on the way. Going to need some POP (Pool Owner Patience) but trust me, you will get it accomplished... btw... no, i did not get in that water. I did leaf rake for about 4 hours 1 Sunday prior to starting, but other than that, it was brush and vac and follow SLAM.

 

[kellyfair]

Hey there, Amber. Don’t get in... you never know what is in there! <shudder>

Once your kit comes, you’ll get some answers. Until then, just keep doing the blind scooping, add chlorine using Pool Math to determine amount for your pool, and hang in there!

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By the way, let’s see a before picture!