Difference between using pool shock products versus using just a high chlorine dose

Poolmein

New member
May 25, 2020
2
Charlotte
Hello,
I am a first time above-the-ground pool owner trying to understand pool chemistry correctly.

Before chlorinating the water (once or twice a week depending on the chlorine level), the water must first be balanced (ph, alkalinity, hardness, etc.). Also, the water must be shocked about once a week, I guess.
I see there are specific products to shock the pool. Why not just use a high dose of the same granular chlorine that I use to regularly sanitize the water? What is special about these shock specific products?

Thanks!
 
Following our methods we never "shock" the pool.

You probably should not be using a granular product as your normal source of chlorination.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:






So, welcome to TFP!!
 
Thank you tim5055. I did go through the links you sent me.

My above the ground pool has 6,000 gallons of water. Before joining this forum, I purchased the following chemicals:
  • Clorox Pool&Spa XtraBlue Chlorinating Granules (6 lbs) which is supposed to be an all purpose sanitizer, shock and Algaecide. In the back of the box, it talks about what quantity (lbs/gal of water) to use to shock the pool
  • CLOROX Pool&Spa 12104CLX pH Up (4 lb)
  • Pure baking soda
  • Pool Essentials Shock Treatment 6 Pack (1 lb/Bag). contains Trichlor.
  • HTH 67004 pH Decreaser Salt Swimming Pool Balancer (7 lbs)
 
I'm going to say a few things, but please don't think I'm making fun of you. You are one of many who end up being "Pool Stored" even if it happens at WalMart.

  • Clorox Pool&Spa XtraBlue Chlorinating Granules (6 lbs) which is supposed to be an all purpose sanitizer, shock and Algaecide. In the back of the box, it talks about what quantity (lbs/gal of water) to use to shock the pool
I'm not sure if this is Dichlor or Trichlor, but both of them are almost half stabilizer. Each 8oz of this you use will raise the CYA by 5 in your pool.

Products with "Blue" in the name that tout their ability to fight algae generally have copper in them. Copper in an of itself is not a bad thing, but it does slowly build up in the water to the point that it can cause people with blonde hair to suddenly have green hair or to stain the walls of pools. We try to avoid metals because of this.

  • CLOROX Pool&Spa 12104CLX pH Up (4 lb)

Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not detergeant) is less expensive and a better product to use to raise pH. But, most pools don't need the pH to go up, it does that naturally.

  • Pure baking soda
This was a good purchase to raise TA should you ever need to do that. It's not a common need.

  • Pool Essentials Shock Treatment 6 Pack (1 lb/Bag). contains Trichlor.

We do not "shock" our pools, thus we generally don't need "shock" products. Trichlor is almost half CYA/Stabilizer so each bag you use in your pool will raise teh CYA by 11. It won't take long to overstabilize your small pool.

  • HTH 67004 pH Decreaser Salt Swimming Pool Balancer (7 lbs)

Now you have pH increaser and decreaser. Pools seldom need both. We try to stay away from dry aci as a pH decreaser as it contains sulfides which build up in the water.

We base our pool care system on your personal accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 test kit.

For chlorine we like liquid chlorine. This is available at many pool stores as "liquid shock", Home Depot or Lowes in the outside garden area or if need be basic plain household bleach (no scents, low splash or other fancy stuff). Chlorine is a consumable product, it is consumed int eh process of eliminating organics in teh water or even by teh UV rays of the sun. This is something that generally needs to be added every day.
 
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