- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,007
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Note that if you allow the sample to sit it will go back pink so do the tests, call it & move on.
Dead algae battle
- Thread starter Daddydave
- Start date
Use the 10ml sample size so then whatever the drop count is when divided by 2 will be the FC level, 12 drops =6 ppm
I get the test. I was just wondering if I should note when I see the drastic change to clear record there or it seems 1 to 2 drops more go more clear maybe.
My test kit is old. My powder I'm using is chunky. Stains in my chrolene only glass.
Once I get pool right and then covered in winterize.
I will order replacement and re fills for my test kit.
Thank you
My test kit is old. My powder I'm using is chunky. Stains in my chrolene only glass.
Once I get pool right and then covered in winterize.
I will order replacement and re fills for my test kit.
Thank you
it’s either clear or it isn’t. If you add a drop and it gets more clear then you count that drop. If it doesn’t change anything then ignore that drop.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,007
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Update. Had to go back to work yesterday. Wife did not feel comfortable testing. Had her add 30oz chrolene every 2 hours.
Came home to 13 fc.
Added chrolene to slam level 16.
Skimmer socks very light with yellow debree.
Pool very clear.
Today wife reports socks have little to no yellow debree.
I think I'm out of the woods.
She is adding 15oz every 2 hours.
As I come out of slam process.
The yellow chrolene tester I use. Do I throw that in the garbage and just do a fc test daily?
I want to understand what I did wrong.
Letting my cya get really low?
Just maintaining 3ppm based on yellow drop test?
Leaving floats in pool when temp got cold and then hot again?
Thank you
Came home to 13 fc.
Added chrolene to slam level 16.
Skimmer socks very light with yellow debree.
Pool very clear.
Today wife reports socks have little to no yellow debree.
I think I'm out of the woods.
She is adding 15oz every 2 hours.
As I come out of slam process.
The yellow chrolene tester I use. Do I throw that in the garbage and just do a fc test daily?
I want to understand what I did wrong.
Letting my cya get really low?
Just maintaining 3ppm based on yellow drop test?
Leaving floats in pool when temp got cold and then hot again?
Thank you
3ppm FC is almost always too low if that’s your goal. If you still have 3ppm at the end of the day then it’s not necessarily bad if you are following the FC/CYA chart.
Algae means the FC got too low.
I’ve personally never used the yellow chlorine test. The FAS-DPD is more accurate and about the same effort so never saw the need.
It's for spot checks down the road. When you're at one with your pool and how it's been responding, there are days you're almost certain you aren't near minimum FC, and if the block test comes back taxicab yellow, your guess + the blocks guess, is probably OK for the day.
But what the specific value is, is anyone's guess.
The key is to never sniff min FC for your CYA level. Target range incorporates many climates and points in the season. Testing a 5 may be OK after today's loss, but isn't going to get you through tomorrow's loss.
3 ppm added may last a week in April and 3 hours mid day in August. It's up to you to know what the recent daily loss has been, and adjust your doses to assume tomorrow will be like today. For the most part this week is like last week, but there are occasional curve balls thrown in there with particularly warm or cool/cloudy spells.
Min FC
+ recent daily loss
+ 1 or 2 ppm wiggle room
-------------------,--
= stoopid clear trouble free pool.
If you need to dose over target range to accomplish the mission in the peak season, so be it. Min is lava.
That block is used for the PH side mostly and then also if I'm upon a pool that's not familiar I'll grab it just to see if there's ANY chlorine by chance but not used for a definitive result.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,007
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
@Daddydave
I am glad things are looking better but…
Be sure you’re passing ALL 3 end of slam criteria before calling it good & moving on to maintenance fc levels:
- water is crystal clear with no recurrent algae (dead or alive)
- passing Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
- cc of 0.5 or less
Be certain that you’ve turned over every stone where algae may hide (scrubbed everything) - if water can go there algae can grow there.
For maintenance:
3ppm fc is bare Minimum for your cya level of 40 - not your target.
You want to ensure that no matter what you never fall below minimum or algae will grow. This generally involves dosing to high target or a scootch above so you always have wiggle room & don’t play kissy face
with minimum incase of a higher uv day, higher bather load, or missed dose.
In your initial post you mentioned closing soon.
It may be a bit early yet. We recommend waiting until after water temps are low 60’s & falling & opening before water temps rise above the low 60’s.
Following this guide helps ensure a clean opening in the spring.
www.google.com
I am glad things are looking better but…
Be sure you’re passing ALL 3 end of slam criteria before calling it good & moving on to maintenance fc levels:
- water is crystal clear with no recurrent algae (dead or alive)
- passing Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
- cc of 0.5 or less
Be certain that you’ve turned over every stone where algae may hide (scrubbed everything) - if water can go there algae can grow there.
For maintenance:
3ppm fc is bare Minimum for your cya level of 40 - not your target.
You want to ensure that no matter what you never fall below minimum or algae will grow. This generally involves dosing to high target or a scootch above so you always have wiggle room & don’t play kissy face
with minimum incase of a higher uv day, higher bather load, or missed dose.In your initial post you mentioned closing soon.
It may be a bit early yet. We recommend waiting until after water temps are low 60’s & falling & opening before water temps rise above the low 60’s.
Following this guide helps ensure a clean opening in the spring.
Closing an In Ground Pool
Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.
www.google.com
Thank you all. I have been reading up on closing instructions. I bought a expensive kit on Amazon but may return. But plan to follow the forums instructions getting the pool fc level to slam level then cover. Yes I read to make sure water temp gets blow 65 or 60 before close.
I will keep reading up on the closing pool instructions.
Yes I will check and pass the 3 criteria before I quit the current slam process.
I can not think you all enough for being patient and guiding me in the right direction and having all the good information on this forum.
I will keep reading up on the closing pool instructions.
Yes I will check and pass the 3 criteria before I quit the current slam process.
I can not think you all enough for being patient and guiding me in the right direction and having all the good information on this forum.
Please do. You need what you need, not some generic cure all that probably doesn't even list exactly what each component is. If they do list it, they are probably harmful. Those kits like to load up on copper and sulfates.
When you roll into the off season balanced, you won't need much. Post up your numbers when the time comes and we'll walk you through the rest.
Make sure to pass one last OCLT right before closing so you're sure nothing snuck by you at the last minute.
When the slam is done breathe a sigh of relief, take a deep breath AND go it another day of slam for extra insurance.