DE to Cartridge switch

As to the piping.

I'd put the "to waste" valve between the pump and the filter. (diverter below)
I'd add the bypass on the filter exit and connect to the exit of the heater.
Put a check valve after the heater.
I'd take the SWG and put it (red block) on a vertical section going up after the out of the check valve after heater output, go vertical, put the salt cell in, then come back down into the returns.

1737164978306.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: tcat
As to the piping.

I'd put the "to waste" valve between the pump and the filter. (diverter below)
I'd add the bypass on the filter exit and connect to the exit of the heater.
Put a check valve after the heater.
I'd take the SWG and put it (red block) on a vertical section going up after the out of the check valve after heater output, go vertical, put the salt cell in, then come back down into the returns.

View attachment 624914
That's kind of a confusing image near where the heater bypass is depicted.

And filter out goes thru the bypass 3-way valve to the INPUT of the heater, not exit/out side.
I do like the idea of the 3-way between the pump and filter - an excellent way to pump to waste for lowering the pool level when needed.
 
Texas, 3-way is fine. I plan on adding a 3-way to bypass the heater (although I can't see a reason for it). If the heater dies, you live without heat for a week or two.
Another great reason to bypass the heater with a 3-way valve and a check valve as depicted in the diagram is to allow the pump to run at a lower rpm while still satisfying the SWG flow switch so the SWG can produce chlorine. The 3-way valve/check valve combo will help prevent dead-heading the pump do to valve mis-configuration.
 
  • the heater is leaking or needs repairs
  • opening the pool in the Spring and balancing the water chemistry
  • the pH may fall below 7.0
  • using any chermical that may lower the pH below 7.0
  • the heater is not being used for periods of time in which case 90% of the flow should be bypassed and a small amount allowed to flow through the heater.
Curious about the heater not being used. I turn it off in October and back on in March. I let water run at 100% (1850rpm) all year (10 years). I don't close. I try to keep pH above 7.2 all year. I do plan on a bypass and 2 extra unions to get plumbing out of the way in case my 10 year old heater dies.
 
Here's a current image of waste pipe (front right). I plan on removing the lower Jandy and everything to left of upper Jandy (that will go to waste). That 4 way at bottom: down goes to pool, right goes to a jet (was a booster line), left is Stenner pump input (acid), up is from SWG. "Fun" project (when it warms up).
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20250117_144936029.jpg
    PXL_20250117_144936029.jpg
    637 KB · Views: 3
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.