CYA too high - help

vbaddict

Member
Jul 9, 2024
23
southern Ohio
I just received my Taylor test kit. When I tested the CYA two different ways as shown in your directions and both indicated that the level is 100. I suppose that is why we have a green pool! TA is 100 and ph is 7.6.

I'm not sure I am doing the chlorine test correctly because it read really high the first time. I need to re-do it.

In the meantime, is the first step to lower the CYA?
 
Welcome!

Green pool means you need to complete the SLAM Process. You'll want to exchange enough water to get CYA down to a manageable level.

How do you plan to chlorinate your pool going forward? I assume your done with tablets and other forms of solid chlorine, so your choices are liquid chlorine or a salt water chlorine generator (SWCG).

We need to know a bit about your pool as well. Please complete your signature...


To get a better idea of your CYA level, do a diluted CYA test. Start at Step 8 in the link below...

 
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Welcome!

Green pool means you need to complete the SLAM Process. You'll want to exchange enough water to get CYA down to a manageable level.

How do you plan to chlorinate your pool going forward? I assume your done with tablets and other forms of chlorine, so your choices are liquid chlorine or a salt water chlorine generator (SWCG).

We need to know a bit about your pool as well. Please complete your signature...


To get a better idea of your CYA level, do a diluted CYA test. Start at Step 8 in the link below...

Hi Mike-

I did the test both ways. The undiluted reading was 100 and the diluted reading was 50.

We are open to treating the pool with liquid chlorine. I'll need to provide the hubby with the data on why he shouldn't use tabs any more. (Those have worked well for us in the past) :)

I did complete my signature but I don't know if it will show up in this reply so here are the details: 28k gal, IG vinyl, sand filter (just replaced the sand), Dolphin robot, K-2006C test kit.

Thank you for the help. We are so done with the pool stores.
 
Good job on the CYA test. You'll need to drain/exchange at least 50% of the water to get CYA within range. If you plan to chlorinate with liquid chlorine, it would be better if you could drain about 2/3 of the volume. I don't have a vinyl pool, but I know they require special attention when doing a drain and refill. Check out the article below for some guidance.

 
I have a vinyl pool, and had no issue with 50% drain/exchange though. it would be better if you could drain about 2/3 of the volume. I would load up on liquid chlorine 12% before starting SLAM.

Once you refill the water, pH of 7.2 is considered good to start SLAM.
 
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Okay.

Do these results make sense for the FAS-DPD?
Small sample: 10.5 ppm FC and 1ppm CC
Large sample: 9.2 ppm Fc and 1.2 CC

I guess it doesn't matter but I'm curious if I did the test correctly.
And it sounds like there's no getting away from draining the pool... :(((
 
That looks right. Don't bother with the higher resolution sample. Just use a 10 mL sample.

From a technical standpoint, you could manage a pool with a CYA level of 100. The problem is slamming a pool with that high of a level. It would require an FC level of 40 ppm. That would take a lot of chlorine to get you there, and would burn through your reagents very quickly. Best just to do the water exchange and move on.

Where do you get your water from? Is it municipal, or well, or delivery?
 

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It doesn't seem like there could be any other explanation other than algae. It's a nice green color for a dress, but not for a pool. :) Our water is from the city, yes.

This is our fourth year for the pool and this has never happened before. It was starting to be a little funky right before we left for vacation and while we were gone, we had unseasonably hot weather, 95+ degrees for a number of days. Remotely, on our pool cam, we could watch the pool get greener and greener. :(

Then the pool store sold us algaecide (which had absolutely no effect) and it seems like that may have compounded the problem instead of helping. That's when I found this website.
 
Were you using Xtra blue tabs ? Those are copper laced also.

Got pics ?

Perfectly clear but tinted water is typically copper/iron. Cloudy green is typically algae. The raised FC levels dealing with algae will also sometimes cause the metals to go green so you have can green algae water that also becomes crystal clear metals out of suspension water.

I'll need to provide the hubby with the data on why he shouldn't use tabs any more. (Those have worked well for us in the past)
Until it didn't. 😁


You will forever be able to ask him if he remembers the pool going green.
 
Time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon pail with 5 gallons. You can calculate how long it will take. Exchange for that period of time.
Run the out pump in a way that it will maintain the pool water level.
 

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