CYA levels with a SWG vs liquid chlorine in winter

[jwlv]

In the TFP page What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? it states that a plaster pool using liquid chlorine should have a CYA range of 30-60 and one with a SWG should have a range of 60-90. If I have a SWG but disable it during the winter when I switch to liquid chlorine, then my only real option is to get my CYA as close to 60 as possible because it’s the only overlapping value between the two? The answer to this also affects how to use the chart on the Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship Explained page. On that page, where the only overlapping CYA level is 60, the full chart differs on the chlorine target (7-9 for liquid chlorine and 4-9 when using the SWG).

Thanks in advance for helping me understand what I should be doing when using the SWG in three of the four seasons vs liquid chlorine in the winter when the SWG is disabled. We do this because we occasionally fire up the heater for winter swims (the pool is only 2,700 gallons).

 

[Bperry]

In the TFP page What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? it states that a plaster pool using liquid chlorine should have a CYA range of 30-60 and one with a SWG should have a range of 60-90. If I have a SWG but disable it during the winter when I switch to liquid chlorine, then my only real option is to get my CYA as close to 60 as possible because it’s the only overlapping value between the two? The answer to this also affects how to use the chart on the Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship Explained page. On that page, where the only overlapping CYA level is 60, the full chart differs on the chlorine target (7-9 for liquid chlorine and 4-9 when using the SWG).

Thanks in advance for helping me understand what I should be doing when using the SWG in three of the four seasons vs liquid chlorine in the winter when the SWG is disabled. We do this because we occasionally fire up the heater for winter swims (the pool is only 2,700 gallons).

CYA doesn’t matter that much in this case. As long as it’s over 30 and under 90 it’s fine. The higher CYA sometimes helps protect the chlorine in summer a little better when using a SWCG. I run my CYA 40-50ppm.

If you have to SLAM you want the lower end of the range.

 

[HermanTX]

+1 to @Bperry
I would add that when you switch to using LC for a short period of time, you still have to follow the CYA/FC chart.
So keep your FC at the proper range for whichever CYA value you are at when you switch to LC.

It is better to be on the high side of your FC range when using LC to prevent any dips below minimum if you should forget to add LC one day.

Then when time is right to turn back on the SWCG, just set it to maintain the FC level for the CYA value.

I am entering that period as well. Water temps in south TX are now dipping into the mid-50s so the SWCG is close to its shutoff temperature. I have my LC ready.

 

[Duffatola]

I am entering that period as well. Water temps in south TX are now dipping into the mid-50s so the SWCG is close to its shutoff temperature. I have my LC ready.

@HermanTX - new pool owner in Willis, here. Can you please advise what the benefits are of using LC versus bleach, which is much less expensive?

 

[Newdude]

what the benefits are of using LC versus bleach, which is much less expensive?

Household bleach is 5% or 6% while LC is 10% or 12.5%.

Virtually all household bleaches in the laundry aisle now have polymers which (eventually) cause foaming. The scents, chloromax technology and splashless are 3 things to avoid. 'Disinfectant bleach' in the cleaning aisle is usually free of additives but may be as weak as 3%. It will work in a pinch though.

In the upper left menu of PoolMath is a bleach calculator to do all the computations for you.

 

[Duffatola]

Household bleach is 5% or 6% while LC is 10% or 12.5%.

Virtually all household bleaches in the laundry aisle now have polymers which (eventually) cause foaming. The scents, chloromax technology and splashless are 3 things to avoid. 'Disinfectant bleach' in the cleaning aisle is usually free of additives but may be as weak as 3%. It will work in a pinch though.

In the upper left menu of PoolMath is a bleach calculator to do all the computations for you.

Thanks for the info - good to know. We happen to have nummerous gallons of Cloralen Concentrated bleach (SDS attached), which is 7-8% and costs $5.49 and doesn't seem to contain any scents, is not splashless (not sure about the chloromax technology). Lowe's has liquid bleach on sale for $6.98 (normally $8.98) but it's only 10%. I'm trying to decide whether to I should purchase it before the sale ends (knowing it has a limited shelf life) or to use the remaining bleach.

 

[Newdude]

Run the bleach calculator in poolmath. It says the Lowes 10% is the better buy at either 7% or 8% of the other bottle which is 7 ounces less.

It was close enough either way that if one of the stores was further, the gas used would likely eat any savings.

The manufacture dates could skew the cost effectiveness as well.

not sure about the chloromax technology

It's chlorox's thing in most of their bleaches.

 

[Mdragger88]

@Duffatola
The plain chloralen (not splashless) in the green bottle is fine to use. As with all sodium hypochlorite check the date code to see what you’re working with. If its older it just might not be 7-8% anymore so you’ll need to use more but it’s certainly fine to use that up. I buy that for my hot tub in the winter sometimes.
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