CYA Level...

Ok...here we go...FC 3, CC 3, TA 100, ph 7.2, CH 250, CYA 0!! Pool is sparkly clear, so am going to continue with SLAM and the "overnight" test tonight....should I add CYA stabilizer now or wait?? Am still really confused why zero and "hope" the test chemical I just got from TFTestkit is good!! So am going to go slow and see if it starts registering....any thoughts welcome! Thx!!
 
Can u clarify your alternative CYA test? Cannot quite follow..

I will try to clarify what I said in above post; TFTestkits.net sell a 50 ppm standard solution of CYA. This is basically pool water that has a CYA level of 50 ppm. So now you have a known value of pool water, when you mix it with the CYA reagent and pour it into the view tube and fill it to the 50 line it will show you what a positive test looks like in those conditions (again follow instruction as close as possible but I have found varying differences in varying light conditions). However, I now also mix up a separate sample of my pool water with the CYA reagent and pour it into a separate view tube until my pool tube looks the same as my standard tube, then I read my pool tube. If it is at 35 I round up and call my test results 40 as per instructions. Hope this helps if not let me know I will attempt to try again. My writing skills leave a little to be desired

Also to clarify earlier CYA readings...I put 40 in but really had no idea as I ran out of the CYA reagent from TFTestkits...

Do you know how many ounces of CYA you put in?

still confused how the CYA can go to 0 in one winter...any ideas?

Yes, from what I understand CYA is consumed, but very slowly. And the conditions over the winter, seem to accelerate the consumption. I read about the actual chemistry involved but can not recall, so in the northeast significant reduction of CYA is achieved and I believe it is the main reason so many people get away with using Trichlor (although, with normal use I would reach very high levels that would make the pool unsafe for swimming, even if I did not get algae, but hey, I wonder how many people do get sick and just do not realize it is from pool water not being sanitary).
 
Thx! Your explanation very clear now....that's a good idea!

Great news is I passed overnight test, so now I will let drift down, retest everything and adjust from there...woohoo!!

Sorry for confusion on CYA...I opened the pool and realized I had no CYA reagant and had to order it...so I "assumed" 40 and that's what I put into earlier posts. Once I got reagant I was surprised to see zero and wondered if it was possible I got bad reagant...

In any case, I put in a little CYA yesterday (4 pounds) and it is at least registering on CYA test this AM (versus previous non-registering at all!)!!! So, will wait another day and see what CYA measures and adjust from there...

Thx for help!! :)
 
Also to clarify earlier CYA readings...I put 40 in but really had no idea as I ran out of the CYA reagant from TFTestkits...still confused how the CYA can go to 0 in one winter...any ideas?

Chiming in a little late. In some pools, CYA will convert over to ammonia during the winter months. It happens sometimes. I live around the corner from you and you can easily work with 30 CYA in your pool. This will allow you to keep your FC levels lower than say 50, but you have to be pro-active in understanding your pool. In NJ, we do not get super hot days in the upper 90's for an extended period of time to warrant these conditions.

If you tested "zero CYA" and you added through sock or any other method and it is totally dissolved, you can use the CYA level to SLAM the pool. You stated it was 40. I do not feel you lost your CYA. Have you received the reagent to test for CYA. At this point, once you test use that figure for the SLAM. If you wish to save on reagents during the SLAM, you can use .5 ml and * by 1. As the water becomes clear, then switch back to .10 ml and * by .5.
 
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