Corroded Water Heater

There was scale on the heating elements and some rust and corrosion on the housing around the area of the temperature sensors. The repairman who replaced it said that it would possibly start to leak from the corrosion.

This combination doesn't quite add up to me. If it was just out of warranty, I might call the repair guy, ask for it back, and send it to the mfg, asking fo an explanation (and maybe a cost-share n its replacement.)

My hot tub is more than 15 years old, my ch is never more than 150 b/c I fill with soft water and add the ch, and touch wood, the heating element has not failed. I can't quite believe after 3 years anything other than extremely cheap so-called stainless steel would corrode like that. And I would be sure to post that in a review somewhere if the mfg desnt at least offer a theory or some kind of transparency on the part ;)
 
I wish I had saved the old part Swampwoman but unfortunately it got tossed. I too have soft water and have always had to add calcium to get it up to 130 ppm. My tap water has a CH of around 70 ppm. It does seem odd that scale formed on the heating elements when my CH was so low. Who is the manufacturer of your hot tub? 15 years is a good run for a hot tub.
 
Who is the manufacturer of your hot tub? 15 years is a good run for a hot tub.

It's a jacuzzi sport, and actually its older than I said because its a late 90s model! A few years ago I did have to change the 2 hp pump, which was pricey (eg $800 with labor in) but I'd figured even if I got another year it was still a cheaper date than new and I'm not convinced that despite the high prices today's quality beats old tech ;). Last year I had to replace a cracked light for $150 (with labor.) Shes been kind to me so I bought her a custom snow-load lid/cover two years ago when I decided I would not trade up til forced. Touch wood!
 
I agree, it is a great sticky and I have used it to maintain my tub for years. I have made some updates already and opened a discussion behind the scenes on the merits of increasing our recommended CH level to 250. Traditionally, we have only recommended CH of 130 to 150 in tubs to reduce foaming if it occurs, otherwise it is typically ignored. CSI below scaling level (+0.6) is all we have been concerned with because standalone hot tubs aren't plaster, they are acrylic, fiberglass or plastic. So, negative CSI is not an issue. Just as it isn't issue in vinyl or fiberglass pools, because there is no plaster to leach CH into the water and etch the finish.

It certainly will not hurt anything to increase CH to 250 in your tub. There is no downside, other than time and money to add it. From what I've seen you have done well managing the water chemistry in your tub. I don't think you contributed to your heater failure. And I'm not sure that increasing your CH to 250 would have prevented your heater failure or extended it's life significantly.

Thanks for the feedback and discussion.

I've read a bunch of the Spa care threads and would say that there is gradually becoming more and more thoughts that contradict the stickies. Perhaps a complete edit of both the Chlorine and Bromine stickies should be considered.
 
I've read a bunch of the Spa care threads and would say that there is gradually becoming more and more thoughts that contradict the stickies. Perhaps a complete edit of both the Chlorine and Bromine stickies should be considered.

If so, please post what you have read and discovered either in the Hot Tub sub-forum or The Deep End forum. We are always happy to entertain new information from appropriate sources. Do note that online forums (this one included) will always have a range of diverse opinions about what is right and what is wrong. There is also lots and lots of "information" (mostly opinions again) from even the most reputable Spa/Pool/Water magazines. But let's be equally clear - none of those are peer-review scientific journals. The editor of Aqua Magazine likely holds a degree in English Literature and can probably tell you the correct use of the semicolon in English grammatical structures. But a scientist he is not. Peer-Reviewed literature contains scientific papers that have been through a rigorous process of scientific screening where editors and peer-reviewers look at what has been claimed in a paper and check that against established and current scientific data. Often times, these types of journals will require the corroboration of data by other independent scientists before a paper is allowed to be published. This ensures the accuracy and validity of the statement made.

Unfortunately, the pool and spa world is devoid of a lot of science and peer-review and heavy on opinions and anecdotes. This is why TFP tries to vet posts as much as possible. It's not because the Experts and Mods like to be snarky-jerks, it's because this site is in the business of providing reliable, fact-based information. So, when someone publishes a post with an opinion in it that is not supported in facts, we have a duty to respond. Please don't take that personally, we are just very careful.
 

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Yes, let me clarify my statement. Please point out anything you see in Pool School that is not in keeping with current TFP guidelines. Not helpful suggestions like people should sanitize their pool by pouring in acetone and lighting it on fire because that kills all the germs and algae really fast. :-D
 
I agree 100% guys. Sorry - I'm not trying to suggest that anyone is "wrong". I understand that theories sometimes change over time with practical experience. Chemist - I am not... but as an engineer I face the reality of how sometimes things change with practical (or in the field) experience.

So - please don't take my request as an attack...


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Bakr, could you please be more specific in this:
I've read a bunch of the Spa care threads and would say that there is gradually becoming more and more thoughts that contradict the stickies.

I'd like to have an idea of what you think requires updating/or what these thoughts are so that i can explore the topic and be aware of it when helping other posters.
 
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