converting from indoor bromine pool to SWCG

Aug 8, 2015
65
Jeffeson, MA
I had a thread about a year ago that answered most of the questions I had about converting from bromine tablets to SWCG for my indoor pool at work, but at the time I had just replaced the water and already began feeding bromine tabs and there was already a significant build up of DMH so I decided to shelf it until the next water change which will be about a month from now.

Based on the size of my pool, (24,000 gallons) bather load (high), and the need for the pump to run 24/7 chem geek and others answered most of the questions I had regarding sizing the salt cell(s) to get the required amount of chlorine generation I would need (which i believe was about 2.8lbs/day, but I will go back and check) Thank you.

The one thing that I looked through the past thread that I did not see was what to do about CYA? I know in my outdoor pool at home I have a SWCG and I go by the recommended levels from TFP of about 70-80ppm CYA and keep the FC levels at or as close to between 4-5ppm and I have zero problems, the water is crystal clear and hardly ever have to add any chlorine.

My question is because my pool at work is an indoor pool and my state will not allow me to have any CYA in a commercial indoor pool what would I try to keep my chlorine levels at in that scenario? Would I keep them at or near 1-3ppm? That is what my state regs require. Also, how difficult would that be to do since I have no stabilizer? Would I see wild swings in FC levels daily? I do have a few sky lights in the pool area and I fully expect to supplement with shock/bleach weekly as well. Any experience or answers to this would be helpful as I am trying to plan ahead now before I change the water whether I am going to make the leap this year. Would like to get away from bromine.

Thanks
 
Yes, you will keep your FC between 1-3 ppm if you are unable to use CYA. With an indoor pool this won't be a problem since the biggest reason to keep CYA levels so high in SWG pools is to protect the FC from burning off in the sun. With no CYA you could potentially have it controlled by an ORP sensor, increasing and decreasing chlorine production as needed, but setting that up is outside my expertise. With a high bather load most FC loss will be to oxidizing bather waste rather than from the skylights. You will likely see some swings in FC based on use, it should be similar to what you see now with bromine. Things should work similarly to the pool as you are using it now, except there will be no stabilizing chemicals building up.
 
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