James: on your post above you said that AquaRite had a design flaw yet you posted videos about ProLogic (AquaPlus). Which system are you talking about that has design flaws?
<The Aquarite has a design flaw where the high amp shutdown will happen at normal salinity when the water temperature is above about 90 degrees. >
AquaRite, ProLogic, and AquaPlus all shut down at 8.0 amps.
Some software revisions shut down at 10 amps, but I'm not sure which revisions use 10 vs. 8.
Most software revisions shut down at 8.0 amps.
At "normal" salinity levels of 3,200 ppm, the amperage begins to approach or exceed 8.0 amps at about 92 degrees.
This can be a problem for warmer pools, especially when the cell is downstream from a gas heater where the temperature exiting the heater can be up to 16.8 degrees Fahrenheit higher than the inlet temperature.
To stay below the 8.0 amp limit, you have to maintain the salinity below about 2,800 ppm.
The system will work down to 2,400 ppm, but it will give a constant "Low Salinity" warning at 2,700 ppm.
Trying to keep the salinity exactly at 2,800 to avoid getting a low salinity warning or a high amp error is difficult.
To avoid the low salinity warning and the high amp shutdown, you can change the cell type to T-9.
This will make the salinity read higher than actual so that you can operate at an actual salinity of 2,400 to 2,800 ppm without the low salinity warning all the time.
You would try to keep the amperage between about 6 to 7 amps maximum.
You would make sure that the amperage was always below 8.0, even when the heater was on.
The T-940 cell is the long life version of the T-15.
The T-925 is the long life version of the T-9 cell.
The poster says that they have a T-940, but the readings match a T-925 cell.
So, maybe the cell is a T-925 or it's an underperforming T-940 or the salinity tests are not accurate.
We need to verify the salinity to a high degree of certainty and we need to verify the cell model type.
The cell performance can be evaluated by dividing the instant salinity by the verified actual salinity.
Check the instant salinity in both polarities by going to diagnostics and noting the instant salinity, then press the + button to reverse the polarity as shown in the second video. The cell will reverse polarity and a new set of diagnostic readings will display. The instant salinity should be the same in both polarities +/- 200 ppm.
If the cell performance is below 75%, it's a bad cell.
If the performance of a new cell is below 80%, I would return it for a replacement.
You can manage with a high water temperature, but in my opinion, it's easier to manage by switching the cell type to T-9 when the water temperature is going to be above 92 degrees in general or because it's downstream from a gas heater.
It won't hurt anything to run like this. The higher water temperature compensates for the lower salinity.
