Concrete scupper wok bowl-how to terminate pipe within bowl

Foosman

0
Bronze Supporter
Jul 21, 2016
371
Austin, TX
I have a couple scupper bowls similar to the attached photo. These will have a 1" PVC pipe coming up from the bottom. I realize you don't want to have a 1" pipe sticking straight through the bowl to fill or you'll likely end up with a fountain. Should this terminate with a 90degree elbow, a tee, etc?

IMG_0288.JPG


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Just cut the pipe flush with the bottom of the bowl. As long as you can control the flow rate with a valve there should not be a problem.
 
Foosman,

I have two scupper bowls planned for my pool. Each one will have a lighted bubbler it. If I did not have the lighted bubbler, I would consider one of these flush return eye balls.

faff8d5f9aabfeefbafdf8020bf566b9.jpg


http://www.poolfittings.com/flush-mount-return-fittings

You could leave the eye ball out if you just want free flow, or make it a bubbler if you have a big enough bowl. I think they cost $8 each. I plan to put some hydraulic cement with a grout layer and pebbles to fill up to my bubbler nozzles.

Incidentally, where are you getting your bowls from? I have been tempted to cast my own bowls because shipping is ridiculous and I want big bowls.

You definitely need a trim valve per scupper.



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Foosman,

I have two scupper bowls planned for my pool. Each one will have a lighted bubbler it. If I did not have the lighted bubbler, I would consider one of these flush return eye balls.

faff8d5f9aabfeefbafdf8020bf566b9.jpg


http://www.poolfittings.com/flush-mount-return-fittings

You could leave the eye ball out if you just want free flow, or make it a bubbler if you have a big enough bowl. I think they cost $8 each. I plan to put some hydraulic cement with a grout layer and pebbles to fill up to my bubbler nozzles.

Incidentally, where are you getting your bowls from? I have been tempted to cast my own bowls because shipping is ridiculous and I want big bowls.

You definitely need a trim valve per scupper.



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Yeah, shipping was more than the bowls. I had then shipped from Phoenix Precast Products, Inc. A pair of 27" bowls cost $218, crate and shipping $314. I'll ask the boss if she wants bubblers or free flow. I was thinking of sealing the pipe to bowl opening with A+B epoxy. I like the idea of river rocks if we do a free flow, but will need something besides a 1" pipe opening to keep the rocks out.


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Yeah, shipping was more than the bowls. I had then shipped from Phoenix Precast Products, Inc. A pair of 27" bowls cost $218, crate and shipping $314. I'll ask the boss if she wants bubblers or free flow. I was thinking of sealing the pipe to bowl opening with A+B epoxy. I like the idea of river rocks if we do a free flow, but will need something besides a 1" pipe opening to keep the rocks out.


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If you install the eye ball socket, you could show the boss both options and then change it later if you change your mind.


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You don't need anything fancy. Cut the pipe flush with the bowl bottom. Cut the end off a CMU block leaving one inch legs. Set the cut-off legs down to divert the flow and pile your rip rap on top to hide the CMU. if you have a VSP turn the water feature on AFTER it cycles down out of its prime speed or it will overflow your pot. Works like a charm . . .
 
You don't need anything fancy. Cut the pipe flush with the bowl bottom. Cut the end off a CMU block leaving one inch legs. Set the cut-off legs down to divert the flow and pile your rip rap on top to hide the CMU. if you have a VSP turn the water feature on AFTER it cycles down out of its prime speed or it will overflow your pot. Works like a charm . . .

I think that if you did not want the bubbler, this would look really nice. Maybe use some black river rock to make it pop.


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