Completed! First time closing solo- how's my plan?

[B.lu]

Hi! I know there are many similar posts from this season and years past but I wanted to get feedback on my plan. I've opened my pool by myself before (with help from TFP), but never closed it. I'm nervous. A big shout out to Newdude, who has already talked me through some of the preliminary steps.

I have a 15x30 in-ground pool. One skimmer. Dual main drain. Three returns. Cartridge filter. SWG.

1) Balanced water. Add correct dose of polyquat 60, circulate.
2) Robot to get rid of debris
3) Drain pool water to four inches below returns. Remove skimmer basket and return eyeballs.
4) ?turn off power at circuit breaker
5) Turn valve to close off main drain, but open up skimmer
6) Use Cyclone blower with hose in skimmer- turn on until no more water through returns. (I have short hose and adapter)
7) Turn valve to close skimmer and open main drains
8) Cyclone on until no longer seeing bubbles from pool floor
9) While cyclone is still on, turn valve to close off main drain for air lock (do I turn this back to open skimmer or to closing inlet)
10) RV antifreeze in 3 returns. Plug returns. Antifreeze in skimmer (down skimmer hole and also in area that would house basket in summer).
11) Gizzmo in skimmer
12) Add extra empty bottles to skimmer to take up space? Add an empty bottle with a little antifreeze to place where weir door usually is (I heard about that on YouTube, might be silly)
13) Remove all plugs from equipment.
14) Cover pool (hopefully with my husband's help, as I almost fell into the pool when I opened it alone)

Questions:
a. Do I remove filter cartridges before step 4?
b. In other threads, I've read 'filter set to recirculate'. I don't know what that means. Is that something I have to do with cartridge filter?

Thanks so much for looking. I can take pictures of the equipment tomorrow if needed

 

[sande005]

I'd add, somewhere about step 7-9 - take plugs out of all equipment, let Cyclone blow out all water from equipment lines, pump, heater.
My equipment plumbing has a plug in one pipe, at the lowest level - take that out if you have one, as a "low point drain" so any water missed can trickle out.
If you can, keep pump pot cover off, but just on top (to keep animals out, but allow air to move in/out of system if it needs to). Mine is easy to take apart the pump impeller area, so I take that apart to get any gunk out of the impeller, and drain any residual water there, also.

Recirculate is on a multi-ports for sand filters. Usually not for cartridge ones. Do make sure the filter is also as empty as you can get it. Since it will be open, take the cartridges out for cleaning, and store elsewhere over the winter.

My first year with a SWCG, so I got a dummy pipe, and will be taking the generator in for the winter. Others can chime in about whether that is really needed.
My controls are supposedly all weather proof, but I will cover them, just in case.

Oh yeah - turn off main power, and gas line.

 

[Newdude]

7) Turn valve to close skimmer and open main drains
8) Cyclone on until no longer seeing bubbles from pool floor

If you're still blowing from the skimmer you would need the skimmer line open at the pad to allow air through.

You would also need the returns plugged so that air can only escape through the main drain. Or if you have individual valves for the returns you can close them all instead of using plugs. If you have valves, I'd blow the returns one at a time.

The bubbles from the drain mean the drain line is clear, and they won't stop as long as the cyclone is blowing. So you close that valve, airlocking it under pressure. The cyclone can blow into the now closed system for the time it takes to run back and forth to turn it off without harm. Or deputize a daughter to be the off button pusher once you close the drain valve.

10) RV antifreeze in 3 returns. Plug returns. Antifreeze in skimmer

You'll have to unplug the already plugged returns (from blowing the drain) to add antifreeze, then re-plug them.

12) Add extra empty bottles to skimmer to take up space? Add an empty bottle with a little antifreeze to place where weir door usually is (I heard about that on YouTube, might be silly)

Or cut up pool noodles shoved all up in there.

Do I remove filter cartridges before step 4?

Yes. Carts come out to be cleaned and dried. Mine tak about a week and I have to flip them over twice during the week. The water wicks down and the top area will be drier while the bottom is still damp. Then once fully dry they can go back or be wrapped (mice detterent) and stored inside somewhere.

other threads, I've read 'filter set to recirculate

For sand/DE folks. Disregard.


Keep us posted.

 

[sande005]

For my own info - what's the reasoning behind taking up space in the skimmers/door with noodles or other? What does it help prevent?

 

[Newdude]

For my own info - what's the reasoning behind taking up space in the skimmers/door with noodles or other? What does it help prevent?

With a mesh cover, the Northeast will pick up about 3 ft of rain and melted snow in the off season. (With the typical 8 months closed up here). I closed mid November and opened real early last year and still picked up 2 ft. So the skimmer will likely fill before its time to drain again when it still has 6 inches until full. The noodles insurance that any ice in the mouth of the skimmer has plenty of expansion room. The gizzmo takes care of the main part of the skimmer, but once you're cutting up noodles, it sure won't hurt to add more chunks to supplement the gizzmo. Some use a partially filled or weighted jug there instead.

 

[B.lu]

I'd add, somewhere about step 7-9 - take plugs out of all equipment, let Cyclone blow out all water from equipment lines, pump, heater.
My equipment plumbing has a plug in one pipe, at the lowest level - take that out if you have one, as a "low point drain" so any water missed can trickle out.
If you can, keep pump pot cover off, but just on top (to keep animals out, but allow air to move in/out of system if it needs to). Mine is easy to take apart the pump impeller area, so I take that apart to get any gunk out of the impeller, and drain any residual water there, also.

Recirculate is on a multi-ports for sand filters. Usually not for cartridge ones. Do make sure the filter is also as empty as you can get it. Since it will be open, take the cartridges out for cleaning, and store elsewhere over the winter.

My first year with a SWCG, so I got a dummy pipe, and will be taking the generator in for the winter. Others can chime in about whether that is really needed.
My controls are supposedly all weather proof, but I will cover them, just in case.

Oh yeah - turn off main power, and gas line.

Excellent, thanks Sande! I don't have a valve to turn off gas line from the tanks or at where the pipe enters the heater. I'll double check to be sure though

 

[B.lu]

If you're still blowing from the skimmer you would need the skimmer line open at the pad to allow air through.

Oh yeah, that makes sense . I will be blowing from skimmer

You would also need the returns plugged so that air can only escape through the main drain. Or if you have individual valves for the returns you can close them all instead of using plugs. If you have valves, I'd blow the returns one at a time.

I don't have individual valves. So just to be clear-

Hose in skimmer- valve positioned half way between main drains and skimmer so blower can go through both (return plugs and side pressure plug are ON at this point)
After a couple of minutes, turn valve while blower is still on, under pressure, to close off main drain
Cyclone off. Take out return plugs. Cyclone on until all water gone through returns and side pressure port. Put plugs back in
Cyclone off. Take out equipment plugs for water to drain, like Sande explained

The bubbles from the drain mean the drain line is clear, and they won't stop as long as the cyclone is blowing. So you close that valve, airlocking it under pressure. The cyclone can blow into the now closed system for the time it takes to run back and forth to turn it off without harm.

Since I only have the one valve between skimmer and drain, once I airlock (and now have just the skimmer open) can I just let the cyclone stay on until water is out?

Or deputize a daughter to be the off button pusher once you close the drain valve.

You'll have to unplug the already plugged returns (from blowing the drain) to add antifreeze, then re-plug them.

Noted

Or cut up pool noodles shoved all up in there.

View attachment 531477
View attachment 531478

Love these noodle pics. Very helpful.

Do you take your weir door off for winter?

Yes. Carts come out to be cleaned and dried. Mine tak about a week and I have to flip them over twice during the week. The water wicks down and the top area will be drier while the bottom is still damp. Then once fully dry they can go back or be wrapped (mice detterent) and stored inside somewhere.

For sand/DE folks. Disregard.


Keep us posted.

 

[Newdude]

Hose in skimmer- valve positioned half way between main drains and skimmer so blower can go through both (return plugs and side pressure plug are ON at this point)
After a couple of minutes, turn valve while blower is still on, under pressure, to close off main drain
Cyclone off. Take out return plugs. Cyclone on until all water gone through returns and side pressure port. Put plugs back in
Cyclone off. Take out equipment plugs for water to drain, like Sande explained

Perfect. Plug up the returns to start and blow the main drain. Once airlocked, remove the plugs and blow the returns.

Go back over your build pics and plug them one at a time closest to furtherst so as you go down the run water keeps getting pushed to the furthers return. Once they're all clear pull the plugs and use the bendy funnel to add some antifreeze to each. Then plug them for good.

Or start with the returns and then do the main drain, and then go back to antifreeze the returns. It's the same thing, half a dozen or six depending on which way you start.

Then add antifreeze to the skimmer pipe, gizzmo it and add noodles.

Do you take your weir door off for winter?

I don't because I hadn't for 10 years when I learned it was a thing. You can remove it if you Google your skimmer (woohoo build pic model #s) and the tabs/pegs of the door pop into holes in the skimmer. If the door has the holes, don't remove it as if you break the pegs on the skimmer itself, you can't fix it with a new (cheap) door like the other ones.

 

[sande005]

With a mesh cover, the Northeast will pick up about 3 ft of rain and melted snow in the off season. (With the typical 8 months closed up here). I closed mid November and opened real early last year and still picked up 2 ft. So the skimmer will likely fill before its time to drain again when it still has 6 inches until full. The noodles insurance that any ice in the mouth of the skimmer has plenty of expansion room. The gizzmo takes care of the main part of the skimmer, but once you're cutting up noodles, it sure won't hurt to add more chunks to supplement the gizzmo. Some use a partially filled or weighted jug there instead.

Always learning something new - same issue in Minn. - sometimes the pool refills with rain/snow melt to above the skimmers. Always used Gizmos, and no problems in 27 years...but perhaps lucky. Will pick up some noodles on the next shopping run, if they haven't all disappeared from store shelves for the season yet.

 

[Newdude]

And @B.lu. Just like opening, the first one is nerve wracking but all in your head. The 2nd time is much better and you might even tweak a few things from experience. Times 3+ are a joke and 2nd nature.

I had a brand new pool last year and spent 15 minutes blowing it out, including setting everything up and getting power out there. It was SO easy, I filled the pipes with the hose and blew it a 2nd way to see which one worked best going forward. That one took less than 10 mins because I was already set up.

You'll get there too.

 

[B.lu]

And @B.lu. Just like opening, the first one is nerve wracking but all in your head. The 2nd time is much better and you might even tweak a few things from experience. Times 3+ are a joke and 2nd nature.

I had a brand new pool last year and spent 15 minutes blowing it out, including setting everything up and getting power out there. It was SO easy, I filled the pipes with the hose and blew it a 2nd way to see which one worked best going forward. That one took less than 10 mins because I was already set up.

You'll get there too.

I REALLY appreciate all of your help!!!

My cyclone was supposed to be delivered last night but was delayed (should be in today). That's buying me some time to tighten up the process. I just raised the anchors for the pool cover to attach to, rinsed the screws, and added Jack's Formula Multilube before putting them back in. I couldn't easily remove about 10 of the screws and didn't want to strip them so just walked away from it for a bit. I'll spray some WD40 and see if that helps. For some, the whole column came out of the hole when I tried to unscrew it.

Im also stress eating pop tarts but a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do!

 

[Newdude]

For some, the whole column came out of the hole when I tried to unscrew it

That's the easiest way. In fact, when mine are stubborn I try to break the while thing free so I can hold the pipe (waist level and not on my knees) while loosening the screw.

Im also stress eating pop tarts but a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do!

Get your munch on. I'm just as guilty. Don't forget to yard mumble. That's where you walk around overwhelmed running through scenarios and mumbling to yourself like a mad person. Ok if i..... then I can.... but what if I....... 90% of any job is yard mumbling.

 

[B.lu]

That's the easiest way. In fact, when mine are stubborn I try to break the while thing free so I can hold the pipe (waist level and not on my knees) while loosening the screw.

Get your munch on. I'm just as guilty. Don't forget to yard mumble. That's where you walk around overwhelmed running through scenarios and mumbling to yourself like a mad person. Ok if i..... then I can.... but what if I....... 90% of any job is yard mumbling.

walking around my yard doing a project is my favorite time to talk to myself! Totally agree

 

[B.lu]

Excellent, thanks Sande! I don't have a valve to turn off gas line from the tanks or at where the pipe enters the heater. I'll double check to be sure though

I didn't have an off valve on the gas pipe but did turn off at the top of the propane tanks

 

[B.lu]

I didn't have an off valve on the gas pipe but did turn off at the top of the propane tanks

Newdude, do you really drain to 3-4 inches below return? I am slowly draining my pool via the main drain and hose connected from my equipment. (next year I'll buy a pump after I've paid off my cyclone ) Im halfway below the returns and am tempted to stop once I get just below the return. We do get a lot of rain so I don't want to be risky but wanted to see what you think...

 

[Newdude]

Im halfway below the returns

So 1.5 to 2 inches ? That's plenty for now. You'll just fill up a little sooner.

But it made me remember you have the rare plaster pool up by us. Do you have waterline tile ?

next year I'll buy a pump after I've paid off my cyclone

This monster or any 1.6 HP equivalent will be under $100 and make QUICK work of it with a 1.5 inch backwash hose. (Purchased separately of course)

 

[B.lu]

So 1.5 to 2 inches ? That's plenty for now. You'll just fill up a little sooner.

But it made me remember you have the rare plaster pool up by us. Do you have waterline tile ?

This monster or any 1.6 HP equivalent will be under $100 and make QUICK work of it with a 1.5 inch backwash hose. (Purchased separately of course)

I am not 2 inches below yet but could be in a couple of hours (this drains slowly!). Im still waiting on the cyclone to arrive so I have some time. I do have a plaster pool with waterline tile. Should I to the 4 inches below for a safety measure? I know I don't want any tiles popping off in the winter. I could plan to by the pump you linked and pump a few times over winter

 

[Newdude]

I do have a plaster pool with waterline tile. Should I to the 4 inches below for a safety measure?

The 4 inches is strictly to buy more time when it's going to fill again. You can stop at the bottom edge of the return pipe. You can even leave them submerged and cap the lines with air blowing out, but you won't be able to add antifreeze so it's a pick your poison kinda thing.

Water level too low in a plaster pool risks popping in a flood (possible) or if the water table literally comes to ground level (not likely). Draining too little leaves your tiles underwater soon and risks them popping in the freeze. Splitting the difference risks a return plumbing issue with no antifreeze. (although with a cyclone there won't hardly be any water in the left to freeze.)

I could plan to by the pump you linked and pump a few times over winter

It's up to you if you want to do 6 inches a bunch of times or a foot 2 or 3 times (one of them being now). But keep your tiles dry.

 

[sande005]

This spring, when I converted my sand filter to a cartridge, they automatically (and I would have insisted, anyway) put in a two way valve to redirect the water from going into the filter to an open pipe. I have a short run attached to that with a rubber coupling, to allow vacuuming to waste. For pump down, I'll do what I always did and attach a long run of 1 1/2 inch vinyl hose (flexible, lays flat when empty) that I can run to a better spot for dumping lots of water. The street in my case, which may or may not be legal in some localities. Then I just use the pool pump to lower the level. Shut off the skimmers before they run dry, and after just pull from the main drain.
I usually can get 2-4" below the outlets before the pump struggles too much (it has to push the water a bit up hill, and that long run makes it harder, also).
The only bad - if you do suck air via the skimmers going dry, it can be hard to get the pump primed and pumping again. I can by disconnecting the long run, so it has an easier time doing the priming cycle when pulling only from the main drain. But best not to get to that point. You'll be blowing air to get the water out of the skimmers and their lines anyway in subsequent steps.
Others with more knowledge should comment - but rain/snow/freeze/thaw will gradually refill the pool to the tile level anyway, so it wouldn't seem to be an issue that should affect them.

 

[B.lu]

Do I unscrew this white port for the suction side cleaner and then put the plug in, or leave it screwed in and plug it?